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Thread: John Deere M Brush hog size?

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    Brian W's Avatar
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    John Deere M Brush hog size?

    Hello All,
    New to the site, just recently purchased a JD model M and digging around for information. Have an opportunity to purchase a JD brush hog model 613 for $500 which is 6' - will my M handle this? I'm sure it will be too heavy to lift, not worried about really lifting it but rather will the tractor be able to handle pulling and mowing with it. Any thoughts?
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    Brian's Avatar
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    Well, the 613 was a good brush hog. My buddy has one for his 3020.

    I assume your M is somewhere around 20hp. I really think that it is too small for that size of a rotary cutter.

    I would recommend going to a a 4' if it will cover the tractor wheels or light weight 5 foot unit. Being able to pick it up is important to me because I would not want a tail wagging the dog syndrome to happen with your tractor. Also, being a 1940-1950's tractor, I would not want to overload the engine constantly trying to run the equipment.
    Brian

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    I run a 5' brush hog on my 40U. That is the biggest I'd go on an M as I think the HP is 2 less on the M. I have no problem picking the brush hog up, but in thick grass or heavy brush it will slow the engine down.

    Don't forget to pick up an over-running clutch for the PTO! When engaged, the PTO is directly driven by the same shaft as the rear wheels and if you put the clutch in, an implement with a large rotating mass such as a brush hog will drive the PTO shaft and force the rear wheels to keep moving. An over-running clutch will prevent this.

    Andy B.
    Andy B.

    1966 110 Lawn Tractor
    2012 2520 - DELIVERED 27APR2012!!!

    Tractor that I used to own - 1954 40 Utility
    KB3WPN

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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    I ran a Ford 1300 with a 5' brush hog for a neighbor a few years back and tall or thick grass was really taxing each of the 15 pto ponies! On the plus side, the first few gears were under a mile an hour and at that speed there wasn't anything it couldn't chop thru.

    I too am looking into getting some kind of brush mower for my M. I have been considering a trailer style mower rather than a 3pt mower mostly due to the weight. I have only ever used a 3pt mower and was wondering if there were any other pros/cons of a trailer mower I should consider. All I plan on mowing is about 6 acres of pasture and a mile or two of trails, all fairly flat and even.

    I'm considering either a 5' trailer or a 4' 3pt.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, JD 39 sickle mower, JD 660 rake, NH 65 small square, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and back blade, estate rake, and agri-fab sweeper.
    '85 F150 300ci inline six, 4x4, 4sp manual, 510k miles and climbing!

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    ColonyPark's Avatar
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    My wife's uncle uses a 5' pull behind hog on his M at the family farm. He also has a 6' 3PH hog for his bigger Kioti machine. He prefers to use the M with the pull behind. But time is never on anybody's side, and it takes longer. It provides a better cut though.


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    Jamie

    2011 JD 1026R - w/60" NON-AutoConnect MMM, FEL w/WR Long Toothbar, 47" Front Mount Snowblower, 48" KingKutter Tiller & Brush Hog, CountyLine Carry All and CountyLine 60" Rear Blade
    1990 JD 185 - 46"MMM w/Power Flow Bagger

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    I've been over thousands of acres with a pull-type 6 ft. 'Hog on a tractor 2/3rds higher HP than your M. I'd say your M would struggle with a 5 ft ' hog, but your tractor is too wide for a 4 ft by 3-4 inches. Maybe something 54 inches wide would work.

    A pull type is not near as maneuverable as a 3-pt, short turns cause oscillations in the PTO shaft that send shock waves thru your PTO drive train. Those oscillations do much more harm to the tractor than the bush hog. Combine those oscillations with the uneven power impulses of a two cylinder engine would not be good. Stick with a smaller, lighter 3-point mounted mower.

    An over running clutch in the PTO is a good idea, but not actually 100% necessary. I never had one, you just need to be ready to disengage either the PTO or shift the trans onto neutral. The added length of the O/R clutch could make for some bad drive line angles.

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    Evergreen (01-24-2015)

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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    I use my M for mowing my lawn (Woods RM59) so I already have an over-run clutch on it. I never considered the effect of turning on the PTO as being the 'weak' spot of a trailer mower. The field I'd be mowing is flat but very irregular in shape so I'd always be in some sort of turning maneuver. Looks like I'm on the hunt for a 3pt brush hog then!

    Thanks.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, JD 39 sickle mower, JD 660 rake, NH 65 small square, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and back blade, estate rake, and agri-fab sweeper.
    '85 F150 300ci inline six, 4x4, 4sp manual, 510k miles and climbing!

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    The design of the PTO drive line makes a difference in how much oscillation is created. A drive line with two universals equal distance from the hitch pin and a third right by the bush hogs gearbox will turn sharper with little oscillation until you get into a pretty tight turn. The other common style of drive line uses a longer single shaft with only two u-joints, one on each end. Any turn sharper than 10-15 degrees will send oscillations all through the PTO drive train in both the tractor and mower.

    Dad had a fully mounted five foot bush hog that was way too small for the tractor it fit, but was built like a battleship. You could use it to knock down brick buildings. It was much easier to maneuver back into tight places to mow weeds than the pull type mower. Most of our mowing or chopping was open fields or at least long gradual turns and the pull type worked fine where I could take a pass and turn gradually and take the next pass twenty or more feet away. With the fully mounted unit I could make a U-turn and go back right next to my last pass.
    Big Jim 55 likes this.

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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    Close quarters manuverability isn't really an issue until I try to park it in the barn but I would like to be able to turn more than 15* without chewing up my transmission. I have never seen the 3 u-joint shafts you were talking about and trailer brush hogs are hard enough to find up here where I live without having to be picky once I find one.

    My biggest concern with a 3pt mower is my M's ability to pick it up. I have a "self engineered" 3 pt hitch that works quite well but I think my hydraulic pump may be getting worn out. It can lift my RM59 without trouble but a brush hog will most likely be heavier and have a center of mass much farther away from the tractor. How much does a 4' brush hog typically weigh?
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, JD 39 sickle mower, JD 660 rake, NH 65 small square, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and back blade, estate rake, and agri-fab sweeper.
    '85 F150 300ci inline six, 4x4, 4sp manual, 510k miles and climbing!

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    I can't post hot links to other webpages from my tablet, but if you'd go on WOODS Equipment's website and look at their model DS96 & 120 mowers, they have the two piece drive line with the three universal joints. On the right side of the spec's page is a link to a PDF file of the operator's manual. A good drawing is on page 11.

    Woods offers two different four foot mowers. One weighs 500# and the other 410#.

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