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  1. Top | #11

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    Is the spark nice and blue? Are you checking the spark at the plug? Try throwing in a new set of plugs. It's cheap and good maintenance if it hasn't been done in awhile.
    Gizmo2 likes this.

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  3. Top | #12

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    I have been away in Colorado for a while, but today I got back to the mystery of my mower. I got down to the tappets, and they barely move when the engine is cranked. So I am thinking timing gear or whatever is in there. With what i have seen of this mower so far, I assume the timing gear or chain is plastic or pressed cardboard. Any advice?

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    Superglidesport's Avatar
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    Check the compression properly. If you have ~170 PSI on each cylinder you can eliminate mechanical (piston, rings, cylinders, head gaskets, valves and cam) problems.

    Here's more information that may help:

    John Deere Models 425, 445, F911 and 6X4 Gator Kawasaki FD620D Camshaft Replacement :: John Deere TechTalk – The Source for John Deere Technical Information
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  6. Top | #14

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    well, I finally checked the compression, which I should have done a long the valves are not cycling. The left side is closed, the right side is open, with no compression. The valves themselves are fine, as is everything else i can see. very little wear that I can observe. I pulled the water pump, and the big gear at the front of the engine is undamaged. Does anyone have good advice on how to proceed?

  7. Top | #15
    techie1961's Avatar
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    I think that I would be looking at the valve adjustment screws. Compare the right and left sides to see if they are screwed in the same and try to adjust the valves. If they are okay, you might have a burned valve.
    Lorne
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  8. Top | #16

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    The pushrods are not getting pushed, at least I don't think so. I had removed the heads to examine the valves and the top of the pistons, and everything looked fine. The valves move freely when pushed.

  9. Top | #17

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    Toadboy, with the coolant pump off, the big gear you see should be the camshaft gear. The gear on the crankshaft drives the cam gear. Rotate the engine by hand. If that gear turns, inspect the teeth all the way around. Two revolutions of the crank will be required to see all the cam teeth. If it still has the plastic gear cam and it is broken, it won't revolve. So the valves won't operate.

    If that's your problem, a new replacement camshaft will have a steel gear. Four new tappets (lifters) and different valve springs are also recommended by Kawasaki. Gaskets and O-rings will be needed also. My preference is to also replace the oil pump gear, governor gear, and coolant pump. Those gears are also plastic and same age as the cam. The gears are cheap and the water pump is not so expensive that I ever wanted to disassemble one just to replace the gear.

    First money should be spent to get the manual for "Kawasaki Liquid Cooled Engines" that fits your era of tractor. One can be ordered from Deere. Service manuals for the tractors usually don't include much info for the engines now-a-days.

    Popular opinion is the plastic geared cam was discontinued in the liquid cooled Deere spec'd engines around the '98-'99 model years. Seems to be no set hours for one to fail. Heard of some with as few as 600 hours failing. The only one that I have replaced that had totally failed was in an 18HP vertical shaft model. It had over 2000 hours on it. Replaced a few others because the engine was torn down for other reasons and the gear was showing signs of chipping of the teeth.

    Keep us posted what you find. If the cam isn't broken, I would like to know what you do find.

    tommyhawk


    Sample of a FD590V cam.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. Top | #18

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    I rotated and examined the gear, and it looks perfect.

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