The Original Cab for my 2720 was delivered yesterday about noon. After it was delivered, I opened it up to make sure everything was OK & to review the manual. I brought the tractor into the shop & got the 4 corner mounts put on the tractor.
These are the front mounting brackets. They go in the joint between the foots rest & floor boards. The cab is designed to be installed using existing bolt locations, so you do not have to drill any holes. In the spring when I remove the cab I will leave these brackets on the tractor. Each bracket is attached with only one bolt. I was concerned that the brackets could pivot on the one bolt during the mowing season, so I drilled holes & added a second bolt to each bracket.
These two brackets mound with the front bolt locations of the ROPS. The left one had to go under the mower height adjuster.
The center part of the front frame mounts to the fire wall. I had to remove 1 bolt on each side that holds the lower dash cover in place. I then installed longer bolts. The longer bolts extend into the engine compartment. I added the provided shims & bolted the on the frame.
Next is just a matter of assembling the frame on the tractor. None of the frame bolts are tightened at this time.
Next I assembled the lower frame & latches on the doors. I hung the doors on the cab, latched them & tightened all of the bolts.
I made a modification in this step. The cab is designed to be attached the the ROPS, with it in the up position. The tractor will not fit in my barn with the ROPS up.
I reworked the brackets & made extensions that would attach below the hinges of the ROPS. The cab is still very solid with the change & it allows me to fold down the ROPS.
At this point I checked how I would need to to run the wiring for the windshield wiper. On the 2210 & 2320 that I also had Original Cab on, because they did not come with 12 volt power sockets, I installed 12 volt sockets on the dash of each tractor to plug the wiper wire into. The 2720 comes with a 12 volt socket, but it is located on the right side of the seat behind the joystick. I did not like the way I was going to have to run the run to the socket, so I decided to add a second socket on the right side of the dash.
Now it was just a matter of adding the coverings to the frame, The edges of the coverings wrap around the frame & are held by snaps. After the coverings, I added the windshield & roof.
The cab coves with a soft windshield & no wiper. These are about $200 each options. I already had a glass windshield & wiper on my old cab, so I used them on the new cab.
I am very pleased with the new cab. The visibility is much better than the old cab.
These are the front mounting brackets. They go in the joint between the foots rest & floor boards. The cab is designed to be installed using existing bolt locations, so you do not have to drill any holes. In the spring when I remove the cab I will leave these brackets on the tractor. Each bracket is attached with only one bolt. I was concerned that the brackets could pivot on the one bolt during the mowing season, so I drilled holes & added a second bolt to each bracket.
These two brackets mound with the front bolt locations of the ROPS. The left one had to go under the mower height adjuster.
The center part of the front frame mounts to the fire wall. I had to remove 1 bolt on each side that holds the lower dash cover in place. I then installed longer bolts. The longer bolts extend into the engine compartment. I added the provided shims & bolted the on the frame.
Next is just a matter of assembling the frame on the tractor. None of the frame bolts are tightened at this time.
Next I assembled the lower frame & latches on the doors. I hung the doors on the cab, latched them & tightened all of the bolts.
I made a modification in this step. The cab is designed to be attached the the ROPS, with it in the up position. The tractor will not fit in my barn with the ROPS up.
I reworked the brackets & made extensions that would attach below the hinges of the ROPS. The cab is still very solid with the change & it allows me to fold down the ROPS.
At this point I checked how I would need to to run the wiring for the windshield wiper. On the 2210 & 2320 that I also had Original Cab on, because they did not come with 12 volt power sockets, I installed 12 volt sockets on the dash of each tractor to plug the wiper wire into. The 2720 comes with a 12 volt socket, but it is located on the right side of the seat behind the joystick. I did not like the way I was going to have to run the run to the socket, so I decided to add a second socket on the right side of the dash.
Now it was just a matter of adding the coverings to the frame, The edges of the coverings wrap around the frame & are held by snaps. After the coverings, I added the windshield & roof.
The cab coves with a soft windshield & no wiper. These are about $200 each options. I already had a glass windshield & wiper on my old cab, so I used them on the new cab.
I am very pleased with the new cab. The visibility is much better than the old cab.