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Thread: Auxiliary lighting

  1. Top | #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    It's all about the equivalent light output watts, not current.
    Thats kind of what I assumed, like the new CFL's.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    It's all about the equivalent light output watts, not current.
    Dadgummit, I should've worded this better.


    What I meant is a lot of these companies are comparing light output equivalency, not the current used by their light for comparison. But it's the current used by the light that we need to worry about when choosing wiring sizes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by felixm22 View Post
    You are over wiring. As per Tuff LED web site the amp draw at 12vdc is only 1.25 amps. LED wattage is not directly related to fixture draw.

    Here are the specs
    Thanks Felix, I was looking for that info, and it appears I am indeed overwiring. So if I run two of these lights on a circuit I can actually use like a 5amp fuse with impunity? Also, and maybe you know the answer, should I care if the relay I use is rated 25amps or 35 amps? I'm assuming that unlike a fuse (where you want to prevent too much amperage from frying things, the higher the amperage of the relay just means it can handle a higher feed without melting. so a low amp circuit is not going to care either way? I'm assuming I can easily wire this with 16ga, perhaps even 18ga without concern?
    Last edited by Ransx77; 01-08-2014 at 08:16 AM.
    2012 John Deere 1026R
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  5. Top | #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ransx77 View Post
    Thanks Felix, I was looking for that info, and it appears I am indeed overwiring. So if I run two of these lights on a circuit I can actually use like a 5amp fuse with impunity? Also, and maybe you know the answer, should I care if the relay I use is rated 25amps or 35 amps? I'm assuming that unlike a fuse (where you want to prevent too much amperage from frying things, the higher the amperage of the relay just means it can handle a higher feed without melting. so a low amp circuit is not going to care either way? I'm assuming I can easily wire this with 16ga, perhaps even 18ga without concern?
    You are correct on the rela size. The fuse should be sized for the wire you use. If the wire can handle 10 amps you use a 10 amp fuse. Fuses are more for circuit protection that equipment protection. If one of the LED's shorted inside and the circuit started to draw 15 amps a 10 amp fuse would blow and protect the wiring.


    As to what size wire to use I would have to check. I'm am the guy that doesn't own an extension cord smaller than 12 awg and have a 120 amp power distro wired 6/4 so cable with baby cam locks. 6/4 so cable weigh 3/4 lbs a foot.
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    Attachment 24422
    Quote Originally Posted by felixm22 View Post
    You are correct on the rela size. The fuse should be sized for the wire you use. If the wire can handle 10 amps you use a 10 amp fuse. Fuses are more for circuit protection that equipment protection. If one of the LED's shorted inside and the circuit started to draw 15 amps a 10 amp fuse would blow and protect the wiring.


    As to what size wire to use I would have to check. I'm am the guy that doesn't own an extension cord smaller than 12 awg and have a 120 amp power distro wired 6/4 so cable with baby cam locks. 6/4 so cable weigh 3/4 lbs a foot.
    That makes sense Felix, confirms what I was thinking. I found an amperage to wire chart and it looks like I can use 16ga up to 6ft of wire. So being an overwire type like yourself, I will use 14ga wire and a 7.5 amp fuse.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Auxiliary lighting-wire_sizing_chart2_titled_filled.jpg  
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    2012 John Deere 1026R
    H-120 FEL, 60D MMM, iMatch, Heavyhitch, BB5060L, LR5060L,
    Sundown JLF-2242 Forks for JDQA, Boom Pole, Shaver 101 Post Hole Digger
    Tow Behind: Trac-Vac 880, 15 year old Ohio Steel Trailer (begging for a JD green paint job)
    Stihl: MS180CB-E; MS391; HT101; FS110; HS81T; BR400 Magnum
    Critters: Bees, Chickens, Maremmas, and Corgis.

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    So attached is my simple wiring diagram I am going to use for my auxillary lights to be mounted on the top of the JD Brush Guards, and a single rear facing work lamp. I've also attached a simple relay explanation I found years ago when I wired auxillary lights on my land rover.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Auxiliary lighting-aux-light-wiring.jpg   Auxiliary lighting-basicrelay.jpg  
    Last edited by Ransx77; 01-09-2014 at 12:24 PM.
    Skyboss1952 likes this.
    2012 John Deere 1026R
    H-120 FEL, 60D MMM, iMatch, Heavyhitch, BB5060L, LR5060L,
    Sundown JLF-2242 Forks for JDQA, Boom Pole, Shaver 101 Post Hole Digger
    Tow Behind: Trac-Vac 880, 15 year old Ohio Steel Trailer (begging for a JD green paint job)
    Stihl: MS180CB-E; MS391; HT101; FS110; HS81T; BR400 Magnum
    Critters: Bees, Chickens, Maremmas, and Corgis.

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  10. Top | #37

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    This is going back to a comment Rigged made.

    How many amps can switch AM117324 handle? If it is more than 4 amps the relay becomes unnecessary on the work lights...if it is more than 2 amps you could have skipped it on the rear light?

    At JDparts.com it says 0.00 amperage ...that cant be right otherwise it wouldnt event be able to run the relay correct?

    Just making sure I understand this wiring stuff.
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  11. Top | #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by kabic View Post
    This is going back to a comment Rigged made.

    How many amps can switch AM117324 handle? . . .At JDparts.com it says 0.00 amperage ...that cant be right otherwise it wouldnt event be able to run the relay correct?

    Just making sure I understand this wiring stuff.
    You could run a search on JDP web site to see where else that switch is used. If you see it being used with say an incandescent lamp on a work light you may be able to infer from the wattage what amperage the switch will support.

    Just a WAG but I would think it would be good to a min of 5 amps. I would use a relay anyway. That way you could run a large enough circuit to allow for any upgrades and the whirring to the switch in the dash can remain the same. Also the relay could be wired to take the control power from the run side of the ignition switch. With a setup like this if the tractor is not in the run position that that switch will not work. In the case if children flipping switches the lights will not be left on by accident killing the battery. The lights will also be turned off when the tractor is being started allowing for more cranking power.
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  12. Top | #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by felixm22 View Post
    You could run a search on JDP web site to see where else that switch is used. If you see it being used with say an incandescent lamp on a work light you may be able to infer from the wattage what amperage the switch will support.

    Just a WAG but I would think it would be good to a min of 5 amps. I would use a relay anyway. That way you could run a large enough circuit to allow for any upgrades and the whirring to the switch in the dash can remain the same. Also the relay could be wired to take the control power from the run side of the ignition switch. With a setup like this if the tractor is not in the run position that that switch will not work. In the case if children flipping switches the lights will not be left on by accident killing the battery. The lights will also be turned off when the tractor is being started allowing for more cranking power.
    I have no doubt the switch can handle at least 5a if not more, but regardless, like you, I'm a relay guy, and it gives me just the flexibility you mention to add to the circuit. I considered running the power off the ignition switch, and I haven't entirely discounted the idea, so it is still an option. The one thing I will probably wire for is the possibility that I might want to add a 2nd rear work light on the other side of the ROPS, so I will probably wire for that possibility, which means I will use plug connectors for all the lights in case I have to switch one out because I worked so long and so hard in the dark that I used the whole 150,000 hrs of life of the light and wore it out.
    2012 John Deere 1026R
    H-120 FEL, 60D MMM, iMatch, Heavyhitch, BB5060L, LR5060L,
    Sundown JLF-2242 Forks for JDQA, Boom Pole, Shaver 101 Post Hole Digger
    Tow Behind: Trac-Vac 880, 15 year old Ohio Steel Trailer (begging for a JD green paint job)
    Stihl: MS180CB-E; MS391; HT101; FS110; HS81T; BR400 Magnum
    Critters: Bees, Chickens, Maremmas, and Corgis.

  13. Top | #40
    Ransx77's Avatar
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    Not sure what I was thinking, but I could swear there were two knockouts for switches on the 1026R, but yesterday when I went out to use the tractor and I loooked, there was only one!! So someone stole the other one!! J/K but I am wondering if I have enough room to cut a 2nd one right next to it? If not I suppose I can put the switch for the rear worklight on one of the side pods? in fact that might be easier for turning it on when I am out of saddle working behind and needing it. Has anyone mounted a switch on the left side pod?
    2012 John Deere 1026R
    H-120 FEL, 60D MMM, iMatch, Heavyhitch, BB5060L, LR5060L,
    Sundown JLF-2242 Forks for JDQA, Boom Pole, Shaver 101 Post Hole Digger
    Tow Behind: Trac-Vac 880, 15 year old Ohio Steel Trailer (begging for a JD green paint job)
    Stihl: MS180CB-E; MS391; HT101; FS110; HS81T; BR400 Magnum
    Critters: Bees, Chickens, Maremmas, and Corgis.

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