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Thread: Auxiliary lighting

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    Auxiliary lighting

    So I have 3 lights on order. All 3 are going to the top of the ROPS. 2 - 30 degree spots LED pointing forward. 1 - flood LED pointing back and down. I already have the plugs for the 2 forward lights under the back fenders that work off the factory switch. Which is great because I want those 2 to come on with the factory grill lights.

    Now with that said I want the one rear facing flood wired on its own switch. It would be a lot easier to have all 3 come on, but I won't always need the back light on. So have any of you installed a switch in the knockout? If so do you have a link to the particular switch that fits? Or is that something my local deere dealer would have? Unless you guys have any other easier ideas? Any input is appreciated! Thanks a bunch!
    2010 John deere 2305HST
    200CX FEL, 54" MMM, Home Made Ballast box, 40 gallon 3pt sprayer, Frontier SS1023B broadcast spreader, Home made Ratchet Rake, RB2060 Rear Blade. Ken's Bolt on hooks. And more to come!

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    bob
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    I used the knockout for a horn. I brought the knockout plug to my local auto parts store and they gave me a switch for a horn that fits perfectly in that spot. I am certain they would also have a switch for lights that would do the same thing.
    2011 John Deere 1026R
    H120 loader with 53 inch bucket
    60D Auto-Connect mower deck
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    JKR
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    I went to my JD dealer. I bought a head light switch for a garden tractor. It fit the knockout. Then I got a fog light relay and wired the lights up.

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    Ok sorry for the possibly dumb question. Why do I need a relay? When it comes to fabricating I could build you fighter jet. When it comes to wiring I get shocked and mad every time.
    navistar82 likes this.
    2010 John deere 2305HST
    200CX FEL, 54" MMM, Home Made Ballast box, 40 gallon 3pt sprayer, Frontier SS1023B broadcast spreader, Home made Ratchet Rake, RB2060 Rear Blade. Ken's Bolt on hooks. And more to come!

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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bwalton84 View Post
    Ok sorry for the possibly dumb question. Why do I need a relay? When it comes to fabricating I could build you fighter jet. When it comes to wiring I get shocked and mad every time.
    If you're running LED lights, you may be able to get by without a relay. Look at the amp draw for your lights. Being LEDs, the amperage required should be fairly low. If your switch of choice is rated for that amperage or more, and you use heavy enough wiring to carry that amperage, you don't need a relay. With two LED lights on one circuit and one on another (if I'm reading your post right), you probably won't need a relay. I'm running two 18 watt LED worklights on my truck without a relay, they draw about 1.3 amps apiece.

    Relays handle heavy current. If I'm running an electrical device that draws 20 amps, I would have to run very heavy wire to a very big switch, then out to the device. With a relay, I can run heavy cable from my power source to the relay, then directly to the device I want to power. I can use smaller wiring and a regular switch to handle the light amperage required to turn the relay on, and let the relay handle the heavy load actually required to run the device I want to power.
    -Blake

    Your mileage may vary.

    '01 5320 MFWD, 541SL loader with JD Global QA

    '01 Gator 4x2.

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    Ah that makes sense now. Thanks for the lesson! I think the two forward lights should be ok with out a relay. They will just plug into the connectors under the rear fenders which are there for the optional light package. And they only draw 2 amps each. The rear facing, will only be one light that draws 2 amps.

    The forward lights draw 2 amps each.

    What do you think?
    2010 John deere 2305HST
    200CX FEL, 54" MMM, Home Made Ballast box, 40 gallon 3pt sprayer, Frontier SS1023B broadcast spreader, Home made Ratchet Rake, RB2060 Rear Blade. Ken's Bolt on hooks. And more to come!

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    CyberShanks's Avatar
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    Auxiliary lighting

    I used a plunger type switch for my reverse lights. I am not running led, just plain old implement lights from local farm supply store. Make sure you do Not wire them in series so that they both get 12 volts and are bright. I'm running directly from aux plugs under fenders too.

    Jim
    Last edited by CyberShanks; 12-16-2013 at 10:45 PM.
    '11 3005 4wd w/300 Loader & 60" SD w/Pirahna, Frontier RB2060, King Cutter 60" RT, Spee-Co 9" PHD, Fimco 40Gal S & JDeere BB
    '12 ZTrak Pro 925A-EFi w/60" 7-Iron Pro Deck, AgriFab SmartLink w/(Aerator/Dethacher/Roller), 130lb Spreader & 350lb Poly Cart
    Owner/Admin of Iowa 4x4. http://www.ia4x4.com - feel free to check us out if you're into wheelin!

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    Went to the local Deere dealer today to pick up a last minute Christmas item. While I was there I had them look for a switch to fit the nock out on my dash. We found a switch that will work perfectly. When I get time this week to start wiring everything up I'll post some pics through the process.

    Here is a picture of the switch and box with part numbers if any one else is looking for a switch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Auxiliary lighting-image.jpg   Auxiliary lighting-image.jpg  
    Kennyd likes this.
    2010 John deere 2305HST
    200CX FEL, 54" MMM, Home Made Ballast box, 40 gallon 3pt sprayer, Frontier SS1023B broadcast spreader, Home made Ratchet Rake, RB2060 Rear Blade. Ken's Bolt on hooks. And more to come!

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Bwalton84 For This Useful Post:

    Green Man (12-28-2013)

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    Well I got time to work on it yesterday. The 2 forward lights are done! And let me say holy crap are these things are bright!!! These little things would hang right in there with a set KC's for a fraction of the cost and power consumption. The wires through the ROPS was the hardest part. Used the weed eater string method until I got the the hole where the flashers mount. Then I taped the string to a coat hanger and fed the coat hanger through the hole and out the bottom of the ROPS. I never could find bullet connectors the right size for the factory connectors. I used weather proof butt splices. I'm going to start on the rear light today. I'm going to use a 2 pin flat trailer connector under the back fender for this one. That way I can unplug the light and plug in the sprayer. That will give me the ability to use the switch on the dash to turn it on and off. Since I'm doing that I'm taking everyone's advice and using a relay for the switch since it pulls more juice than that light. Now if I can just figure out how to wire up a relay.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Auxiliary lighting-image.jpg   Auxiliary lighting-image.jpg   Auxiliary lighting-image.jpg   Auxiliary lighting-image.jpg  
    lost in wisconsin likes this.
    2010 John deere 2305HST
    200CX FEL, 54" MMM, Home Made Ballast box, 40 gallon 3pt sprayer, Frontier SS1023B broadcast spreader, Home made Ratchet Rake, RB2060 Rear Blade. Ken's Bolt on hooks. And more to come!

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    Nass's Avatar
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    Looks good. How did you protect the wires at the ROPS joint? I was thinking of going through the ROPS for my lights, but have not figured how to make sure the wiring doesn't get sliced by the folding joint and anti-rattle wedge.
    2013 3320 open station , 4th/5th scv, power beyond, Rimguard (Beet juice) loaded big R4s- 300CX loader, RB2066 BB, Artillian forks, Curtis 78" FEL mounted snow blade, and more to come.

    Plan: mount skid steer backhoe to 3pt, log splitter

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