New 1025R with loader, 60" Mower with mulch kit, 48" box blade and a ballast box - Page 5
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Thread: New 1025R with loader, 60" Mower with mulch kit, 48" box blade and a ballast box

  1. Top | #41
    Valley Boy's Avatar
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    btb601 I got a 2004 DGT 54". I would give each spindle 4-5 pumps of grease at the first of the mowing season and that would be it. Never had a problem. I don't have the wheel weights but I have the same wheel spinner. Red too. My wife said I should take a pic of my two side by side, and post it. But too much snow left to get it out. Does yours have a Kohler25 hp? Mine smokes on start up if sitting on a down grade. Level or up hill things are fine. I'm wondering how to sell it like that. Never have to add oil. It just puffs a bit if parked down hill.
    Laurie

    John Deere 1025r TLB, Frontier 54" Rear Blower with hydraulics , 54" Quick Connect Mower, 49" Frontier Tiller, iMatch Hitch, Ballast Box, 42" Adjustable Front Tines, 48" Frontier Box Blade, Light Guards, Rear Work Light, Front ROPS Mounted Utility Lights, Block Heater.

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  3. Top | #42
    btb601's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valley Boy View Post
    btb601 I got a 2004 DGT 54". I would give each spindle 4-5 pumps of grease at the first of the mowing season and that would be it. Never had a problem. I don't have the wheel weights but I have the same wheel spinner. Red too. My wife said I should take a pic of my two side by side, and post it. But too much snow left to get it out. Does yours have a Kohler25 hp? Mine smokes on start up if sitting on a down grade. Level or up hill things are fine. I'm wondering how to sell it like that. Never have to add oil. It just puffs a bit if parked down hill.
    Only took me two years to respond.

    Yes, it was a 25 hp. It only smoked on startup. Or after I'd cart-wheeled down a hill......LOL

    To bad you did not put up some pics of yours, I would of got a kick out of that.
    That was a great rider. I don't have it anymore, it couldn't take much more of me. I'm a bit gimped up and can't wrench to well. (Or I should say get down to wrench)
    I'm like a horse with a broken leg, I'm surprised my other half has not put me down yet. Or maybe she is, just doing it slowly. It has to look like a natural cause right?

    Anyway, gave it to a friend who needed it more than I. Plus, he can work out the bugs it had developed over the years.

    Still loving my JD. Took the new off of it last summer mowing a hill I had never mowed before. Got to close to a tree and heard a plastic crunch sound coming from the behind me on the down hill side. I had just passed a small tree that I brushed up against with the mow deck. I did not even have to turn around to look to see what got broke, but I did anyway.
    I bought a new one right away but have not put it on yet. I also just bought some LED to add to the ROP and another LED spot/flood for a backup light. It's a little creepy backing up in pitch blackness. Only once and now stop and wait for some sun. Still looking for some wiring harness to use.

    Still haven't hit 100 hours yet, getting there. I believe I'm at 90 hours something now. Last April, had JD come out and do my 50 hour. He spent most of the time trying to get my deck off. I never could, just figured I was doing something wrong. Or thinking I did not have a level space to do it. After he drugged the deck around my gravel driveway, he stopped and got out a large pry bar. The set screws on the male yoke on the deck that slips into the driveshaft had backed out and that's why I could not disconnect. I had ordered new blades, but he sharpen my instead and then charged me $345 for it all. So all in all, that took the fun out of it. Guess I don't know what hurts more, paying for someone else to do service or doing it myself.

    I did do my first full greasing last week, well I tried. Now, I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or not, but I had to crawl up and down a lot to move the tractor (u-joints) around so I could grease them or try. Plus I could not focus my eyes as everything was to close to me, so I had to go by feel. I'm pretty sure the grease was not going in, but around most fittings.
    So now what? Also that leads me to believe JD service tech did not lube everything either, unless there is a way to line up the zerks without moving the tractor?
    Gizmo2 likes this.
    2014 JD 1025r, H120 53" FEL, 60D Auto connect , iMatch Hitch, Ballast Box, 48" Box Blade
    Mods: BXpanded Quick-On Receiver Hitch, Ken's hooks, Piranha tooth bar, Heavier seat springs, LED lights with magnet mounted in the makings.

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    btb601's Avatar
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    Also, another quick question if you all are reading this.

    I mulch all the time and have a butt load of leaves every fall and I would like to make it easier but adding some Gator blades.
    I guess what I'm asking is who all does this with your mulch kit full time? I seen somewhere you are suppose to take your plug out. But that's not gonna work for me.
    ky_shawn likes this.
    2014 JD 1025r, H120 53" FEL, 60D Auto connect , iMatch Hitch, Ballast Box, 48" Box Blade
    Mods: BXpanded Quick-On Receiver Hitch, Ken's hooks, Piranha tooth bar, Heavier seat springs, LED lights with magnet mounted in the makings.

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  6. Top | #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by btb601 View Post
    Also, another quick question if you all are reading this.

    I mulch all the time and have a butt load of leaves every fall and I would like to make it easier but adding some Gator blades.
    I guess what I'm asking is who all does this with your mulch kit full time? I seen somewhere you are suppose to take your plug out. But that's not gonna work for me.
    I'm not sure I understand the question, and perhaps you should start a new thread since folks might not think this thread is about mulch kits.

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  8. Top | #45
    ky_shawn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by btb601 View Post
    Also, another quick question if you all are reading this.

    I mulch all the time and have a butt load of leaves every fall and I would like to make it easier but adding some Gator blades.
    I guess what I'm asking is who all does this with your mulch kit full time? I seen somewhere you are suppose to take your plug out. But that's not gonna work for me.
    For what it's worth, I questioned my dealer just a few days ago about gator blades and they didn't think I would like them for mulching. Nothing was mentioned about removing the side plate/plug. Most everything I have read about the blades was positive, didn't receive a good answer as to why I wouldn't like them
    Last edited by ky_shawn; 02-26-2017 at 08:35 PM. Reason: Noticed age of thread and shortened my response
    3520 (cab, eHydro, loaded R4's, 300x fel) Frontier RC2060 cutter, 7' Tufline disk, 6' Gill pulverizer, 6' box blade, 5' rear blade, TSC post auger, 6' Woods fm, 8' rotary hoe, 8' cultipacker, 6' field cultivator, ken's bolt on hooks & clevis, JD Z920 ZTR

  9. Top | #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by btb601 View Post

    I did do my first full greasing last week, well I tried. Now, I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or not, but I had to crawl up and down a lot to move the tractor (u-joints) around so I could grease them or try. Plus I could not focus my eyes as everything was to close to me, so I had to go by feel. I'm pretty sure the grease was not going in, but around most fittings.
    So now what? Also that leads me to believe JD service tech did not lube everything either, unless there is a way to line up the zerks without moving the tractor?
    Which zerks are you struggling with? If it's the ones on the drive shaft to the front axle, the tractor is not difficult move on a flat surface in neutral by grabbing a tire and moving it by hand. Or, lift the front tires off the ground an have it in 2wd, turn the front tires to align the zerks. As for the engine-hydro driveshaft, you can carefully use a large screwdriver through the rear u-joint to turn the engine over by hand and line them up. If you have the grease nozzle snapped all the way on and it's squirting grease out the side and not going in, try a new nozzle on the grease Gun. In all likelihood, you just have to make sure the nozzle snaps all the way onto the zerks for them to take grease.

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    btb601 (02-27-2017)

  11. Top | #47
    btb601's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJgrn78 View Post
    Which zerks are you struggling with? If it's the ones on the drive shaft to the front axle, the tractor is not difficult move on a flat surface in neutral by grabbing a tire and moving it by hand. Or, lift the front tires off the ground an have it in 2wd, turn the front tires to align the zerks. As for the engine-hydro driveshaft, you can carefully use a large screwdriver through the rear u-joint to turn the engine over by hand and line them up. If you have the grease nozzle snapped all the way on and it's squirting grease out the side and not going in, try a new nozzle on the grease Gun. In all likelihood, you just have to make sure the nozzle snaps all the way onto the zerks for them to take grease.
    Thanks for the tips, I'll give it a try.

    Here is the info on what I use. Just bought this last year just for this. I have arthritis everywhere, especially in my wrist and hands and any repetition shut me down.
    I have a Milwaukee M18 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless 2-Speed Grease Gun and I can can feel it snap on and stays on until I give it a yank. And it works on all the rest of the tractor. (the zerks I can see anyway)

    I'm a Mr. Boot Camp on greasing things, so you are saying the it can snap on but not be on?
    I might just find out today. Or I should find out today. March is so close and need to get busy.

    And this might be a dumb question. Is it safe to use the bucket to lift the front end off the ground, then shut it down, block rear wheels and then get under it?
    ky_shawn likes this.
    2014 JD 1025r, H120 53" FEL, 60D Auto connect , iMatch Hitch, Ballast Box, 48" Box Blade
    Mods: BXpanded Quick-On Receiver Hitch, Ken's hooks, Piranha tooth bar, Heavier seat springs, LED lights with magnet mounted in the makings.

  12. Top | #48
    ky_shawn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by btb601 View Post
    Thanks for the tips, I'll give it a try.

    Here is the info on what I use. Just bought this last year just for this. I have arthritis everywhere, especially in my wrist and hands and any repetition shut me down.
    I have a Milwaukee M18 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless 2-Speed Grease Gun and I can can feel it snap on and stays on until I give it a yank. And it works on all the rest of the tractor. (the zerks I can see anyway)

    I'm a Mr. Boot Camp on greasing things, so you are saying the it can snap on but not be on?
    I might just find out today. Or I should find out today. March is so close and need to get busy.

    And this might be a dumb question. Is it safe to use the bucket to lift the front end off the ground, then shut it down, block rear wheels and then get under it?
    I use the bucket to lift the front off the ground often but it isn't the best of ideals to get under the machine relying on hydraulics to keep the tractor off of you. Before getting under the tractor I would suggest putting some jack stands, blocks, chunks of 4x4, etc etc, under the front before getting underneath the tractor.
    Gizmo2 and tletourneau like this.
    3520 (cab, eHydro, loaded R4's, 300x fel) Frontier RC2060 cutter, 7' Tufline disk, 6' Gill pulverizer, 6' box blade, 5' rear blade, TSC post auger, 6' Woods fm, 8' rotary hoe, 8' cultipacker, 6' field cultivator, ken's bolt on hooks & clevis, JD Z920 ZTR

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