1026R and Leinbach plow...part 2
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Thread: 1026R and Leinbach plow...part 2

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    metro3's Avatar
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    1026R and Leinbach plow...part 2

    I posted a few pictures a while ago with my 1026R and a 12" plow which had been given to me.
    1026R and leinbach plow
    The 1026 did fine with the plow but when I decided to go over the ground with my tiller I found the 1026 to be too low. It would bottom out on the plowed ground.

    I had make the first pass in reverse. Not that this was that big of a deal but naturally my tiller is a reverse tine type so it ended up throwing a lot of dirt on the back end of the tractor some of which loosened the pin which holds the
    left 3-point-hitch arm to the tractor. Fortunately the cover which surrounds the PTO prevented the arm from coming off the pin until I noticed it!

    I will have to try not running the plow as deep next time. Maybe this will not make the furrows so high.
    Has anyone else tried plowing with a 1 series?

    Roger

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    Adamq's Avatar
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    I plow with a X728 which has about the same ground clearance and sometimes it will bottom out, but it does a nice job. From the pictures of the your first post, you may need to adjust the plow a little more so it will turn the soil completely over, it looks like it is standing up the furrow. I had the same thing happen to me because I was digging too deep, but once I adjusted it correctly, I was cutting about six inches deep, and had the plow level when the tractor was in the furrow. It takes some time and practice for sure, I will try an dig up the plow adjustment schematic for the brinlys and post it.

    http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Bri...PP-1200%29.pdf

    here is the setup for a brinly, I am sure you can use the tractor setup for yours.

    Adam
    Last edited by Adamq; 01-12-2013 at 08:36 AM. Reason: More info

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    I did an article for our JDTech page Plowing with your Garden Tractor 101, Part I :: John Deere TechTalk – The Source for John Deere Technical Information And I will be doing a second part to it on how to adjust and operate the plow. Adam is correct when he said you need to get your moldboard angled so you leave a straight, vertical furrow. To accomplish this raise the left side of by having your left tires on a 6 x 6. Then adjust your 3 point until your plow is straight up and down. This will leave the a nice vertical furrow. With your 3 point all down, you want the front of the landside to be touching the ground and the rear of the landside to be about 1/4 off the ground. This will ensure you get a nice flat bottom of your furrow. You can adjust the toplink to achieve this. Study the link Adam gave you to learn more.

    As I mentioned I will be doing a second part of "Plowing with your Garden Tractor" that will cover adjusting and operating a plow. If anyone has some good pictures and information, I appreciate it.
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    I tried my plow the other day after making the adjustments and not plowing so deep. It worked much better.

    Thanks for the help!

    Roger

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    Good to hear its working better for you .. But I'm wondering why are you plowing and then taking the tiller over the plowed ground ???
    Since buying the tiller ,haven't used the plow. Father in law had a plow for his MF (Snapper) 1855 but 2 or 3 yrs later he bought a tiller plow hasn't been since that time. I've done areas where ground had never been plowed or tilled to areas tilled .
    I've tilled down 6" ,yea made 2 or 3 passes to get that deep but usually go over a area at least 3 times.
    Just wondering !
    Gene

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    I still plow because I enjoy it, and I can incorporate mulches and organic matter easier. I will spread them all out, plow them under, leave it for the spring then till it up. Another reason for plowing is if you are trying to get a handle on weeds, some can be spread faster when tilled, so by plowing them you turn the soil completely over on them and smother it. That is what I am doing with bind weed that is in one of my gardens this year.

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    Ground Plows

    Can someone explain to me a 12" vs a 14" plow? What are you measuring? And, if it's the depth, couldn't you just raise a 14"er up, to not dive so deep? Signed- Totally Dumb on Earth Plowing!

    ~Scotty

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    rgd
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotty370 View Post
    Can someone explain to me a 12" vs a 14" plow? What are you measuring? And, if it's the depth, couldn't you just raise a 14"er up, to not dive so deep? Signed- Totally Dumb on Earth Plowing!

    ~Scotty
    Dear Totally Dumb.....

    I haven't a clue either

    Ann Landers
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotty370 View Post
    Can someone explain to me a 12" vs a 14" plow? What are you measuring? And, if it's the depth, couldn't you just raise a 14"er up, to not dive so deep? Signed- Totally Dumb on Earth Plowing!

    ~Scotty
    No. it's basically measured from the landside to the edge of the share. Here is a thread from WFM discussing how to measure a plow.

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    I should also add, that usually a plow will go about half of the plow size, i.e. a 10 inch should plow to a depth of 5 to 6 inches, while a 12 inch plow will be 6 to 7 inches. The width of the furrow should match the plow size, i.e. a 12 inch plow will have a furrow width of 11 to 12 inches wide.
    Without ice cream, there will be darkness and chaos!
    Olympian Don Kardong

    1965 110s, 1966 110, 1967 112, 2001 LT150, 2003 GT245, 2004 GX345, 2006 X320

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