4230 won't start
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    4230 won't start

    My 4230 has started to smoke a lot out of the crankcase vent. It always has smoked but it is getting worse.
    The last time I used it I spent about 12 hours planting 40 acres of millet.
    Everything seemed normal and I shut off the tractor.
    2 days later I went out and started it and it ran for 30 seconds or so, died and hasn't started since. I noticed that the fuel gage read near to empty and I wasn't getting the normal exhaust so I added fuel and also bled 3 of the injector lines.
    No luck, not even with starting fluid.

    any ideas?

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    Despite what most people think, if you are not getting some diesel fuel to the cylinders, it will not hit with starting fluid. It has to have either diesel fuel or enough oil in the cylinders to build enough compression to hit on. Are you getting fuel to the pump?


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    Crack the lines at the injectors really well and crank the engine. Fuel should come out fairly descent. If not, check/replace filters, check fuel pump for fuel delivery and pressure if you have a gauge. You probably have a Rousa Master injection pump
    and are known to me, three times, that the plastic attachment piece for the governor will fail, plastic pieces will clog up stuff and then disable the function of the injection pump. There is no way to repair the injection pump yourself, which is easy to do, but get another one at a repair shop and install it yourself. I remember there is a check valve on the fuel line at the injection pump, coming from the fuel pump, that has failed before on my 4240. Talk to your dealer, they usually have good suggestions and are very helpful. I've had to replace the pumps on a 4240, 3020 and a 2280 swather.

    These are the checks that I usually perform in troubleshooting. Everybody else reading this, please give construct criticism, if I should of done something different. All I know, it always worked for me.

    Good Luck and let us know your progress!
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    Quote Originally Posted by LR1997 View Post
    Despite what most people think, if you are not getting some diesel fuel to the cylinders, it will not hit with starting fluid. It has to have either diesel fuel or enough oil in the cylinders to build enough compression to hit on. Are you getting fuel to the pump?


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    May I ask why you think a diesel engine won't fire when ether is sprayed into air intake? A good diesel engine will have compression without adding fuel or oil to combustion chamber. Evidently you've never witnessed or checked compression pressure with a gauge. Let me state that I dislike using ether as a diesel engine starting aid & only use it as a last resort.
    Last edited by Tx Jim; 06-08-2017 at 08:31 AM.
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    Ditto what raco232 stated about clogged check valve on fuel return line fitting on IP. Loosen the 2 screws on timing window,pry gasket loose from IP housing and attempt to start engine. On subject of blow-by have you checked condition of engine oil? It's possible oil is contaminated with coolant from liner cavitation.

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    I have seen many people try to start a Diesel engine with ether and the engines weren't getting and fuel from the injection pump and they will not hit on just ether. The part about the oil I was talking about is I have seen 1 exception to the statement above. It was a 3010 that was pretty worn and was burning quite a bit of oil and it had enough oil in the cylinders that it would try to hit with only ether for just a second until the oil burned out of the cylinders


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    Quote Originally Posted by raco232 View Post
    Crack the lines at the injectors really well and crank the engine. Fuel should come out fairly descent. If not, check/replace filters, check fuel pump for fuel delivery and pressure if you have a gauge. You probably have a Rousa Master injection pump
    and are known to me, three times, that the plastic attachment piece for the governor will fail, plastic pieces will clog up stuff and then disable the function of the injection pump. There is no way to repair the injection pump yourself, which is easy to do, but get another one at a repair shop and install it yourself. I remember there is a check valve on the fuel line at the injection pump, coming from the fuel pump, that has failed before on my 4240. Talk to your dealer, they usually have good suggestions and are very helpful. I've had to replace the pumps on a 4240, 3020 and a 2280 swather.

    These are the checks that I usually perform in troubleshooting. Everybody else reading this, please give construct criticism, if I should of done something different. All I know, it always worked for me.

    Good Luck and let us know your progress!
    Fuel return line check valve.
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    Additional steps I've tried

    I have tried a few more things, still no luck

    I replaced the fuel pump, (From this point forward I'm going to invest in a variety of adapters so I can hook up my gages and test for pressure- it would be cheaper)
    I replaced the fuel filter
    bled the injectors ( at most I only ever get a dribble)

    no smoke no firing, no nothing

    As for the oil I just replaced it about 15 hours ago

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    Hi,

    If you do change out the injection pump, make sure that you find the timing marks and write down the position before removal of the pump.

    Also, to be safe, mark the position of the engine crankshaft and don't disturb it. Injection pump timing is tricky and a mis-timed pump will lead to other "no start" issues.

    Good luck.
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    quick question

    Quote Originally Posted by msilveira View Post
    Hi,

    If you do change out the injection pump, make sure that you find the timing marks and write down the position before removal of the pump.

    Also, to be safe, mark the position of the engine crankshaft and don't disturb it. Injection pump timing is tricky and a mis-timed pump will lead to other "no start" issues.

    Good luck.
    If I set the motor to so the timing pin is engaged, does it matter where the injector pump marks are since they'll no doubt have to move it to rebuild it?

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