1970 3020 hydraulic issues after fluid change
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Thread: 1970 3020 hydraulic issues after fluid change

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    jlk
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    1970 3020 hydraulic issues after fluid change

    Recently purchased a 1970 JD 3020. Like many I have been around, needed 30 seconds of engine running for steering / hydraulic system to fully pressurize when I got it. Fluid had water when I got it home, so changed and replaced filter, which was also pretty plugged. All was good for the next 5 hours of use. Then the steering needed more time, followed by the PTO slipping under even light load. Now PTO will not pull any load and steering is intermittent. Advice? Do I need to have it split and PTO clutch replaced?

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    flyweight's Avatar
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    jlk, was the suction screen removed and cleaned? If water is introduced into the hydraulic oil, the brake pads will deteriorate, fall apart and plug the suction screen.

    The suction screen will look like one of the two types below(metal or plastic).
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    Closer look.
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    Michael

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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    Did you clean the sump screen. I have a 1020 that got water in the tranny and it took me three fluid flushes to get it right. Has you change fluid the muck inside breaks free and starts to float around. The sump screen is very important to the system. when I flushed mine I used 25% diesel fuel, 25% atf fluid and hydraulic fluid. I let it run the first time fir 1/2 hour the redrained it. and replaced filters and Cleaned the sump.Then refilled it with Hydro fluid. Started mowing and it worked fine then stared to have hydro issuses ,I redrained it and replaced filters and cleaned sum screen. new Hydro fluid and no problems. Its been three years. By the way check your shifter boots that is where the water gets in
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    If you are sure of the age of the 3020, I would get the hydraulics working properly before you decide if the pto clutch is bad. The 69 and newer 3020 and 4020 used hydraulic pressure to engage the pto. If the pressure is low, clutch may slip. Like others have suggested, be sure to clean the sump screen. SOmetimes when water contamination is present, the screen will get a slimy film over it and needs to be cleaned with solvent. Also as mentioned before, the water is not friendly to brake material and screen could be clogged with brake lining.
    Oh, forgot to as, is it a Synchro Range or PowerShift?
    Last edited by jd110; 09-13-2017 at 09:43 PM. Reason: forgot to ask question
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    jlk
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    You were right on with the suction screen. It was clogged full of material, I assume from the brakes. Thank you very much! I cleaned the screen and replaced the fluid. It resolved the issues with the steering and hydraulics, but the PTO is still not engaging with even a light load. Will a couple of additional flushes help with this, or do I have a bigger problem with the PTO clutch? You expertise is much appreciated.
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    jlk
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd110 View Post
    If you are sure of the age of the 3020, I would get the hydraulics working properly before you decide if the pto clutch is bad. The 69 and newer 3020 and 4020 used hydraulic pressure to engage the pto. If the pressure is low, clutch may slip. Like others have suggested, be sure to clean the sump screen. SOmetimes when water contamination is present, the screen will get a slimy film over it and needs to be cleaned with solvent. Also as mentioned before, the water is not friendly to brake material and screen could be clogged with brake lining.
    Oh, forgot to as, is it a Synchro Range or PowerShift?
    It is a SynchroRange. I am sure of the age of the 3020 by the serial number. I am going to try a second flush with the sump screen and see if that will help get the pressure up to assist with the PTO. Hoping that will help get the hydraulic pressure up. Thanks!
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    IIRC it's very important that all 3 springs are attached to pto control mechanism for good engagement of pto control valve. I'd advise to remove LH side cover(key 1) under dash & inspect the springs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Capture.PNG   Capture.PNG  
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    ALso be sure the rod#13 is adjusted so that the valve is pushed all the way down when lever is pushed forward.If valve does not bottom out, you will not get full pressure.
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