3020 Carb
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    3020 Carb

    Need some advise here. The 3020 has a Zenith OE-2219A on it and it suddenly caused the engine to run really rough (Good fuel flow, sediment screen in place and clean). I took the car to a guy who cleaned it up....and there was alot of accumulated crud in there...cleaned the orifaces, floats good. The fuel shut off solenoid is bad and had been bypassed and no amount of adjustment would make it work. The vacuum pump is worn. Is there a way to bypass the solenoid needle so that it can be functional? But that doesn't deal with the other pump issue.

    I have a MS USX 36 that came with the tractor and it has a bad diaphragm and some other parts.

    Here is the dilemma?

    *Try to find parts for the Zenith solenoid and pump (?$$)
    *Get a kit to repair the parts for the MS USX36 and try that ($60)
    *Buy a new/rebuilt carb ($300-$600)

    Thoughts appreciated.
    John
    '68 John Deere 3020 Gas, '51 Farmall Super C, '56 Loboy, '57 F-Cub, Woods59/Flail Mowers, Front and Rear Grading Blades, Cultivators, Planters, Harrows

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    Superglidesport's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajhbike View Post
    Need some advise here. The 3020 has a Zenith OE-2219A on it and it suddenly caused the engine to run really rough (Good fuel flow, sediment screen in place and clean). I took the car to a guy who cleaned it up....and there was alot of accumulated crud in there...cleaned the orifaces, floats good. The fuel shut off solenoid is bad and had been bypassed and no amount of adjustment would make it work. The vacuum pump is worn. Is there a way to bypass the solenoid needle so that it can be functional? But that doesn't deal with the other pump issue.

    I have a MS USX 36 that came with the tractor and it has a bad diaphragm and some other parts.

    Here is the dilemma?

    *Try to find parts for the Zenith solenoid and pump (?$$)
    *Get a kit to repair the parts for the MS USX36 and try that ($60)
    *Buy a new/rebuilt carb ($300-$600)

    Thoughts appreciated.
    Try the easy and inexpensive fix first. Remove the carb and pull the top off. Check for rust and debris. You may have a tank that is rusting and will continue to be a problem. Replace the inline filter between the tank and sediment bowl.

    The fuel shut-off solenoid is still available but..............

    https://www.greenfarmparts.com/searc...0564&x=31&y=18

    You may be able to remove the shut-off solenoid and run without it. Make sure the needle and spring come out with the solenoid. Temporarily block the threaded solenoid port in the carb body and try to run the engine. If it runs OK then you can then press a lead ball into the opening and seal it permanently. You may need to reduce the idle speed if it wants to run on when shutting the engine off.

    Not sure what vacuum pump you're referring to? Mechanical fuel pump?
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    the vacuum pump looks like a dumb bell with a spring in the middle...#18 on the diagram.

    What I have learned since earlier is that I should be able to remove the solenoid and put in a manual fuel load adjuster in the same place so it can be adjusted by hand.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RWP2535________UN06OCT94.jpg  
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    John
    '68 John Deere 3020 Gas, '51 Farmall Super C, '56 Loboy, '57 F-Cub, Woods59/Flail Mowers, Front and Rear Grading Blades, Cultivators, Planters, Harrows

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    Superglidesport's Avatar
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    Quick recap...tractor ran great brush hogging for 2 hours and died. Replaced fuel pump (was spitting fuel out the hole, cleaned the fuel inlet screen at the carb, and completely cleaned out the zenith carb. Everything inside seemed good.

    So...I removed the electric load adjuster solenoid and needle (wasnt hooked up and looked screwed up) from the zenith and installed a tee handle manual adjuster from steiner. The tractor ran smoother with the valve almost closed which was an improvement from running super rough and smoking.
    However, driving home it would die every 5-7 minutes like out was fuel starved. It would start up with a shot of ether, repeat after 5-7 minutes. If I increased the throttle above 1500 it would sputter and sometimes die. I played with the adjuster to find the sweet spot and almost closed to 1 turn was best. After dying on main Street a few times I made it home.

    Can someone explain how this load adjusting needle is supposed to work and what I should be looking for?

    When I got home I said the heck with it due to a leak and cut the fuel line and put in a filter, shut off valve and flexible line....so that is improved. I turned the manifold blocks to the warm weather position. Replaced the snotty, almost empty oil bath air cleaner with good oil to the proper level. Since fuel and all seem to be okay now, should I replace points and condenser?

    Any help here would be great...wanting to get it back running like it was before the first die out.
    John
    '68 John Deere 3020 Gas, '51 Farmall Super C, '56 Loboy, '57 F-Cub, Woods59/Flail Mowers, Front and Rear Grading Blades, Cultivators, Planters, Harrows

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    Coil maybe?
    John
    '68 John Deere 3020 Gas, '51 Farmall Super C, '56 Loboy, '57 F-Cub, Woods59/Flail Mowers, Front and Rear Grading Blades, Cultivators, Planters, Harrows

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    Well, Recap:
    Replaced the fuel pump
    Replaced the fuel line from the pump to the carb...good flow to pump and to carb
    Replaced the plugs and plug wires
    Replaced the points
    Replaced the distributor cap (a chip in one of the rotor contacts
    Replaced the coil (yellow spark from coil and yellow spark to each plug)
    Sent the Zenith 13429 carb out for rebuilding (with new fuel adjustment needle...replaced solenoid needle, didn't fix the problem)

    Once the carb comes back, I will have the above variables eliminated from the rough running and die out when throttle advanced and maybe the hard starting. I will have a good base for the fuel system.

    The guy who cleaned out the carb keeps saying the motor is running too rich. When I removed the carb, the choke plate was not horizontal when it was open...it was between 30 and 45 degrees closed (of course I thought about it after I sent the carb out) and every manual diagram I have shows that it should be horizontal when open. If that is true then wouldn't that affect how smooth the engine runs and affect accelerating when the throttle is advanced?
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    John
    '68 John Deere 3020 Gas, '51 Farmall Super C, '56 Loboy, '57 F-Cub, Woods59/Flail Mowers, Front and Rear Grading Blades, Cultivators, Planters, Harrows

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    DRobinson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajhbike View Post
    Well, Recap:
    Replaced the fuel pump
    Replaced the fuel line from the pump to the carb...good flow to pump and to carb
    Replaced the plugs and plug wires
    Replaced the points
    Replaced the distributor cap (a chip in one of the rotor contacts
    Replaced the coil (yellow spark from coil and yellow spark to each plug)
    Sent the Zenith 13429 carb out for rebuilding (with new fuel adjustment needle...replaced solenoid needle, didn't fix the problem)

    Once the carb comes back, I will have the above variables eliminated from the rough running and die out when throttle advanced and maybe the hard starting. I will have a good base for the fuel system.

    The guy who cleaned out the carb keeps saying the motor is running too rich. When I removed the carb, the choke plate was not horizontal when it was open...it was between 30 and 45 degrees closed (of course I thought about it after I sent the carb out) and every manual diagram I have shows that it should be horizontal when open. If that is true then wouldn't that affect how smooth the engine runs and affect accelerating when the throttle is advanced?
    I'm not a carb guy, but if the choke plate is partially closed, I would think that it would run rough and rich.
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    Don

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    that is what I am thinking....and it didn't dawn on me until after I sent it out. At least I will eliminate the carb as a variable
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    John
    '68 John Deere 3020 Gas, '51 Farmall Super C, '56 Loboy, '57 F-Cub, Woods59/Flail Mowers, Front and Rear Grading Blades, Cultivators, Planters, Harrows

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    I didn't see if you replaced the distributor ignition condenser. If not you might as well. The condenser is an inexpensive part and is known to affect coil output, cause hard starting and poor running conditions if it's bad. A bad condenser will potentially cause your breaker points to burn or pit prematurely.

    Also, the choke plate should always be wide open. If it's partially closed it will cause a rich & rough running condition.
    DRobinson, BigJim55 and Herminator like this.
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    485 Backhoe w. 18" HD Bucket
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    Frontier AP12F Forks

    John Deere 2032R
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    Curtis Hard Side Cab & Heater
    62D Deck, iMatch Quick Hitch
    54 Snowblower
    Super HeavyHitch
    Little Wonder "Optimax" & JRCO Blower Buggy
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