4230 in-frame engine rebuild- pitfall avoidance
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    4230 in-frame engine rebuild- pitfall avoidance

    I am beginning an in-frame rebuild of my 4230. I have a kit I purchased from Abilene Machine. I would like to avoid pitfalls and I would like to not take anything apart that I will regret later. If there are words of wisdom I would be grateful.

    As my first step I took a few photos of what it looked like when it was together correctly as I've run into that "Oh crap" situation before when faced with a bunch of wires and vacuum hoses that don't appear to belong anywhere. I'd rather not have any spare parts.

    so far I have removed the batteries, drained the oil and antifreeze, removed the fan shroud, intake and exhaust manifolds, alternator and brackets, and water lines from the water pump to the cab.

    A big question is whether I should remove the injector pump to keep it safe and out of the way.

    thank you for any insights. As the name implies I am bound to need help.

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    johnH123's Avatar
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    I would start by watching onelonleyfarmer's series on his 4010 rebuild. Probably very similar. Another person to look out for is Western Truck and Tractor Repair on YT. Look around on his channel, and if you can't find anything helpful, just ask him on email. He knows his stuff so he should be of help.

    Also, TxJim here on GTT has probably done a few of those I would imagine. Hopefully he'll be here soon.
    Last edited by johnH123; 01-07-2019 at 04:04 PM.
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    John
    I haven't personally performed any piston/liner R&R but back in the day I have supervised more than I can remember when I served as a dealer service manager. There are no vacuum hoses that I remember BUT one needs to get lining sealing ring grooves very clean before installing sealing rings. Have cylinder head checked & valve & seats ground by a competent machine shop that knows how high the valve seats need to protrude out of head for good cool engine starting.
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    AlKozak's Avatar
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    This is just me, but it depends on what you mean by "rebuild". For instance, you can't remove a crankshaft without separating the engine from the transmission. If I was going through the trouble of that much tear down, I'd probably want to use oversized bearings and send the crank out to be ground to size.

    Also I'm not a big fan of doing precision work (like measuring ring or bearing clearances) while laying on my back or straddling the radiator.

    Take it out, put the engine on a stand and do it right the first time.

    JMHO. YMMV. LSMFT.

    Al
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    There's been many/many tractor & truck engines that have had "in frame" pistons/liners/crankshaft brgs replaced that have then been operated many/many hours afterward. Putting a tractor engine on an engine stand is a fairly time intensive endeavor not to mention very costly if done by a dealer. To each their own ideas.

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    WHile I agree the most desirable method of engine overhaul is out of frame, but mainly for cleanliness reasons. there is inevitably sludge build up in bottom of block that runs down over the crank when liners are removed. For customers wanting in frame overhaul, I put tape over rod journals on crank before removing sleeves to prevent grit from getting into lube holes in crank journal. Then I push the tractor outside and pressure wash the block out with tape still in place. clean block bores, cylinder head gasket surface , tap out head bolt holes and clean liner oring grooves before washing block again and blowing dry. That way crank is kept relatively clean. Main bearings can be replaced by rolling them around the crank. Crankshafts in John Deere engines are amazingly durable and show little to no wear after many thousands of hours of use if quality oil is kept in it and changed regularly. New bearings usually get bearing clearance in spec without grinding of crank, Of course if crank is worn then out of frame overhaul is a must if you want the job to last.

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    That is amazing advice. Thank you

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    Just thought I'd update.
    The head is off and in the shop to be rebuilt. I was surprised it will cost me more to have the head done than the engine kit. I had to put things on hold while i borrowed a transmission jack to hold the oil pan while i take the bolts out. Figured I could live without dropping it on my head.

    So far I thought the cylinders looked in good shape. I almost expected to see a piston with a hole in it. I'll grab some pictures once I get the pan off and pistons removed. I didn't notice anything worn on the head but I only got a cursory look and really don't know how to judge anyway.

    Looking forward to hopefully getting everything removed and rolling it out of the shop to pressure wash it and then start moving forward

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    Help with oil pump

    I want to meet sure I have to remove the oil pump. Is there anything special to be aware of

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    I can see why the JD last 50+ years

    The piston and sleeves are out. At least when I put the engine back together I shouldn't have to constantly dripped on. Yikes I consider myself strong but it took everything I had to loosen the connecting for bolts. The crank looks pristine, well oiled.
    Now to give the old girl a good bath. Shame I. Waited until January in sd
    Last edited by Bound2needhelp; 01-27-2019 at 03:30 PM.

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