Artillian Diverter Problem
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Thread: Artillian Diverter Problem

  1. Top | #1

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    Artillian Diverter Problem

    My diverter is giving me a problem today. Due to space and project limitations, my tractor has sat outside for the summer. That's probably the cause of my problem.

    Long story short - the diverter isn't diverting! Engine off, I can push the button and I can hear the solenoids click so I know I have power to them. I unplugged both of them and tried them individually. The "inside" (towards the tractor) solenoid makes a loud, positive click. The "outside" solenoid clicks, but it's a lot less "positive". I also swapped the power wires and got the same results. So, I'm 99% sure that I"m getting power to both of them.


    When I push the button and "curl back", the bucket will only move back a little bit and then stop. If I let off the button, the bucket will curl back the rest of the way. When I push the button and "curl down" (pushing FEL lever away from the operator's station), I get no bucket movement at all.

    There's pressure in at least one of the diverter lines. After I do the above, sometimes I can push the button and see the lines "shake" a bit due to the pressure.

    I've already taken the grapple lines off and cleaned the fittings. No change. I also swapped from my grapple to my tree puller and I'm getting the same issues.

    Anything else to try? What is going to need replaced? Are the solenoids "user serviceable"? Hopefully I don't need to buy a complete new diverter block.

    THANKS!!
    '05 JD 3520 Open Station w/ 300CX FEL
    Grandpa's '52 Farmall Cub
    A couple of old Gravelys
    Help a Vet and his dog

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    The spool is probably stuck from lack of use, I’ve written 1000 times that anyone with an electric diverter, SCV, or 3rd function MUST cycle them regularly to keep this from happening. But off my soap box now...


    The spools are easily removable, you can pull out the one you think is not working and inspect. If you can’t get it freed up we have replacements, as should Artillian.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
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  5. Top | #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    The spool is probably stuck from lack of use, I’ve written 1000 times that anyone with an electric diverter, SCV, or 3rd function MUST cycle them regularly to keep this from happening. But off my soap box now...


    The spools are easily removable, you can pull out the one you think is not working and inspect. If you can’t get it freed up we have replacements, as should Artillian.
    Sorry, Kenny.






    In all seriousness, you know that I appreciate your response!!

    At the risk of asking for too much handholding, any direction pulling them out? Do I just unscrew what looks like a big nut and then slide it out?
    '05 JD 3520 Open Station w/ 300CX FEL
    Grandpa's '52 Farmall Cub
    A couple of old Gravelys
    Help a Vet and his dog

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Yes Mark, they just unscrew and lift out. Make sure all pressure is bled off, and have a pan under it as you will have some fluid loss. Make sure everything is CLEAN too.
    BigJim55, C-Range and johncanfield like this.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
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    RIP Chris C-Range's Avatar
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    I've never removed a valve stem without taking the solenoid off first. When you reinstall the solenoid, just tighten its mounting nut until the solenoid doesn't rotate. Don't overttighten!

    If you have trouble getting the solenoid off of the valve stem, that's an indication of a whole different problem. Let us know if that's the case.

    Hopefully you just need to actuate the valve a few times to get it moving again or maybe there's a tiny piece of crud that can be blown out or brushed out.

    While getting your hands dirty, you might also inspect your wiring to make sure you don't have a partial severance somewhere leading to a voltage drop.
    BigJim55 and 1010 like this.
    Chris - 3720 TLB

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Mark,
    Any update on this?
    69project likes this.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
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  11. Top | #7

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    I've been remiss in posting what's happening with this. That stupid thing called a "job" has been getting in the way lately!

    Using the instructions and advice from Kenny and C-Range, I removed the solenoids and spool valves from the valve block. I inspected the spools and to my untrained eye they seemed to be working OK. I put it all back together and had some success for about 5 minutes. Both valves seemed to be working, although not working well. I was getting movement from the cylinder I was hooked up to, but it was moving slow. After a few minutes it quit working though.

    A day or so later I got out my Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge that I bought a few years ago. I had to have an adapter hose made for it so I could hook it up to the 1/4" fittings on the Artillian setup. That confirmed that one spool was working fine (2500 PSI) and the other was not (0 PSI). I took them back out, swapped them around, put the P1 spool in the P2 hole and vice versa. Still the same result with the same spool. I also swapped the solenoids between the spools and got the same results. Conclusion - One bad spool valve.

    I emailed Kenny to see about getting some replacements and - on a holiday Monday - he graciously expedited two new spool valves to me. While I was at it, I went ahead and got some other really cool Bolt On Hooks stuff! Kenny even sewed two medium shirts together for me and was able to hook me up with a bright "Get Hooked" shirt that fits this old fat guy!

    Due to work and the weather (we had 5" of rain here over the weekend) I haven't had a chance to put the new spool valves in the block yet. I went ahead and ordered two replacements even though my testing only showed one bad valve. I don't know too much about this stuff, but I figured if one failed, the other one might not be far behind, so I ordered the extra one.

    If all goes well with work this week, I will replace these things over the weekend. If I can find my tripod, I will take a video of the process. If not, I've already taken several pictures and will take more during the job. I'll post all of the pics once I'm done.


    Finally, a tip of the hat to Kenny!! I can't thank him enough for all of his help!! I already knew what a GREAT GUY he is and this just reinforced that!!
    '05 JD 3520 Open Station w/ 300CX FEL
    Grandpa's '52 Farmall Cub
    A couple of old Gravelys
    Help a Vet and his dog

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  13. Top | #8

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    It's working now!!

    On Saturday I finally had a chance to swap out the spool valves that Kenny sent to me a couple of weeks ago. Everything is working great now. I put about 5 hours on the tractor over the weekend. Much of that on Saturday was using my "Thumb" grapple mounted on my bucket to move brush that I'd cut from along the driveway over to the chip pile. Yesterday I mounted my tree puller and pulled out a bunch of honeysuckle stumps with it.

    A few pics and explanations....

    Before starting this, be sure to bleed off any pressure in these lines by engaging the solenoids and moving the joystick left/right.

    Close up of the valve block with one of the solenoids removed. To remove them, simply undo the big nut on the end. The solenoid slides right off.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Remove the spool valve itself. Be sure to have plenty of paper towels or rags to sop up the spillage. It shouldn't be much, but is enough to make a bit of a mess. (Also note that my hydraulic fluid has been dyed red.)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's what they look like removed...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A close up of the spool valve itself. Those tiny little "slots" are what diverts the fluid when the valve is engaged/disengaged. Amazing how much fluid must go through there!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I pulled both of the valves out, replaced them with new ones, reinstalled the solenoids and plugged it all back in. All is good now.

    Here's a pic of my hydraulic pressure testing gauge. These are available from the fine folks at "Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks" for under $50. Well worth every penny! I used this to confirm which one of my valves was bad (even though I replaced both of them). Note the "adapter hose" on mine. I ordered mine with 1/2" connectors, but the Artillian setup is 1/4". No big deal - a quick trip to my local hydraulic shop and they fixed me up with what I needed.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And, finally (I hope Kenny doesn't mind), here is a video that Kenny sent me that shows how the valve actually moves back and forth when power is applied to the little solenoid/electromagnet. Pretty cool!! Again, simply amazing at how small those openings are!
    https://youtu.be/fooTp_3vzOY



    THANKS again to Kenny for walking me through the replacement process and for getting things out to me so quickly (even though I didn't have time to replace it all until this weekend. ).
    Kennyd, BigJim55 and johncanfield like this.
    '05 JD 3520 Open Station w/ 300CX FEL
    Grandpa's '52 Farmall Cub
    A couple of old Gravelys
    Help a Vet and his dog

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    Kennyd (09-24-2018)

  15. Top | #9
    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Mark, great write-up
    Glad the hear everything is working well now.
    BigJim55 and mark02tj like this.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
    FEL, MMM, Artillian 42" Forks and Modular Grapple, I-Match, Ballast Box, Trac-Vac 854 (for sale) and lots of other STUFF.
    -John Deere 455 w/60" MMM


    Bolt on Grab Hooks and other cool stuff are now for sale!!

    Visit our YouTube Channel

    My Equipment:
    John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab, 300cx FEL, 366 Front Blade, 59" Front Snowblower, Ballast Box
    Artillian 3K Forks, Grapple, Front-Hoe Bucket
    John Deere 455, 60" MMM

  16. The Following User Says Thank You to Kennyd For This Useful Post:

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