A new use for pallet forks
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    A new use for pallet forks

    I went outside today with the intention of mowing the front yard (hasn't been done in 2.5 weeks) and a bit of the remainder of the lawn and then switching to "loader mode" to move log-length firewood in preparation for splitting. Well, that didn't work out as planned.

    I got everything started up and made two passes around the front yard. On the third pass, I noticed a pretty deep "cut" into my lawn where I made the previous pass and thought I was dragging something. Stopped immediately and looked around, under, behind, etc. but didn't immediately see anything. I keep looking and finally realized that there was definitely something hanging out of the back side of the machine. I shut down the mower deck and then shut off the machine entirely. Walking around the back of the machine, I saw a fairly mangled looking piece of metal and realized immediately that it had come off of the rear part of the mechanical lift for the deck.

    As far as the mower and the grass go, all I can say is "thank goodness for gauge wheels!"

    After untwisting it from the tractor, this is ultimately what I was left with:

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    Notice how one of the arms is bent and twisted with the slotted portion being collapsed in on itself in one section. This open slot is required to allow the connector to slip front-to-back as the connecting point on the 3PH moves and to allow the 3PH to drop below the height where the gauge wheels support the deck. Being squeezed together like that would restrict the pin from sliding correctly.

    There's a pin that slips through the front portion (the part that ISN'T wrecked) and is held in place by a cotter pin. That $.10 piece of junk sheared completely off and the shanks were still in the pin! The pin walked its way out just far enough for the bracket to fall off of the lift arms then proceeded to jam straight into the ground and then come around behind the machine. It twisted the snot out of the arms that mount to the rear portion, but the pin was still inserted in one side of the front inner arm.

    Here's the pin showing the cotter pin sheared off:

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    You can still see the shanks of the cotter pin inside the pin itself.

    I ended up prying the bent arm back in line with the other one then using one of my fork tines like a ream to open the slotted portion back up correctly (banging the bulging parts back in place with an 8 lb sledge). Surprisingly, it came out reasonably ok in terms of still being usable. After buying a new cotter pin (heavier than the one that was installed in there before) and new washers for the rear pins, I had the machine back up and running and finished up all of my cutting.

    Here's the arm after all of my bending and hammering:

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    I am still going to have to replace that arm because it will just bug me if I don't. The tapered forks on my Artillian fork set worked out in a fantastic way to get me back up and running on this Sunday when there was no place to go to buy replacement parts.
    andy b. likes this.
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

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    ralphtt's Avatar
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    Ran into a similar situation recently. Covered in this thread . . . http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...20-2720-a.html

    If it's any consolation, the dealer did finally cover the cost of the repair.

    Good luck to you on your negotiations . . .
    Ralph T
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    GTT Vendor Artillian's Avatar
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    Use as a blacksmith anvil is in fact a new application as far as I can see.

    I suppose they might also do the job of a ball joint separator in a pinch too, if you got enough speed.

    Just kidding......Dont' get any ideas!
    andy b. likes this.
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    Zebrafive's Avatar
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    Nice save. I would not buy a new part. I would not bug me.
    J
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    Quote Originally Posted by Artillian View Post
    Use as a blacksmith anvil is in fact a new application as far as I can see.

    I suppose they might also do the job of a ball joint separator in a pinch too, if you got enough speed.

    Just kidding......Dont' get any ideas!
    I also slid the bent arm onto the fork then used down pressure to remove some of the bend (against a concrete slab in the garage).
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ralphtt View Post
    Ran into a similar situation recently. Covered in this thread . . . http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...20-2720-a.html

    If it's any consolation, the dealer did finally cover the cost of the repair.

    Good luck to you on your negotiations . . .
    I will be stopping at the dealer today with bent part in hand to discuss this and a possibly-related bigger issue with the 3PH and its range of movement. What really irks me about this is that it was a complete failure of the pin. The only way that the tractor could have done this to the pin would have been through extreme force to the right side of that connecting rod. The cotter pin is sheared at both ends of the drilled pin that it went through and I still have the pieces that were left inside of the drilled pin.
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

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    Brian's Avatar
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    Could this be related to the fact your three point "might" be lifting too high?



    Brian

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    Could this be related to the fact your three point "might" be lifting too high?
    Already posed that question in my other thread, and will be discussing it all as a collective whole with the dealer later today.
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

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    Quote Originally Posted by meburdick View Post

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    I already did that "conversion" with mine too! It bent the threaded section as well. A little time in the vise and some banging, and it's back on the tractor.

    As long as nothing happens to the actual tractor, I'm happy. When it comes to things that get attached to the tractor, let's just say I'm not adverse to some "modifying".
    Andy B.

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    2012 2520 - DELIVERED 27APR2012!!!

    Tractor that I used to own - 1954 40 Utility
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    Mdufresne's Avatar
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    Most work I do with my tractor is in the rough, and seeing as I don't have independent lift, it wouldn't take long that while using an implement all the way down causing my linkage to drag literally inches above the ground, that it would get snagged on a stump or rock.
    So I disconnect the linkage completely and it really doesn't take that much more time. I leave it attached to the deck and just pull the 4 pins. I replaced the rear cotter pins with the same style loop rings like the front ones.
    Works for me.

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    2011 2720 - 62D MMM - SB1154 Rear Blower - BB2060 Box Blade - 647 Tiller - iMatch - HLA Pallet Forks - County Line 4' Brush Hog - 5' Landscape Rake - Carry All - Sub Soiler - Spreader - Power Flow MCS

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