House for a unheated storage barn?
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
Like Tree18Likes

Thread: House for a unheated storage barn?

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Last Online
    09-10-2019 @ 11:40 AM
    Location
    Belton, South Carolina
    Posts
    1,646
    Thanks
    499
    Thanked 130 Times in 103 Posts

    House for a unheated storage barn?

    Building out a 42' x 24' storage barn & work area. Floor is concrete. Construction is post & beam. For added structural stability I'm installing 7/16" OSB over the girts, then I will be covering the OSB with most likely 3/8" T 1-11. Between the sheathing material I will have a 1/4" air gap for draining out any potential accumulated water condensation or vapor. I'm wondering if I should also install a house wrap over the OSB, then my 1/4' air gap & finally the finished T1-11.

    I'm asking because I really do not see a need for house wrap on an unheated building. As far as climate goes, I'm down here in South Crapolina where the summers are brutal from humidity, but the nice thing is I can run around all winter in shorts & a sweatshirt. Would welcome your opinions & experiences with this issue. Thanks!
    pcabe5, 69project and PJR832 like this.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    Bulitt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Last Online
    08-06-2019 @ 04:45 PM
    Location
    Western NC Mountains
    Posts
    769
    Thanks
    41
    Thanked 110 Times in 73 Posts
    If you are installing the air gap with the expectations that water will run down the side of the OSB, IMHO your osb will be rotted out in 10 yrs?
    I would install the wrap , and I would consider using the hardi board sheathing instead of the plywood- last I looked it was about 5$ a sheet more. We live 12 miles from the SC border. We have board and batten siding. All wood. House is 15 yrs old. Lots of rot on the plywood siding and most of the battens are history. My B.I.L is a builder in Wilmington, NC and they are using hardiboard now. even for the battens. The sun is so intense, and humidity, the boards expand and contract and the caulk at each batten fails in about three yrs...the wrap will save your OSB.
    pcabe5, 69project and PJR832 like this.
    Bob - 2011 2520

    2520 Mods - http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...2520-mods.html
    Posted for general info only. Not suggesting you alter your tractor based upon my feeble minded posts. Do so at your own risk. Maintenance and mods should be performed by a JD Dealer, or refer to your owners and maintenance manuals for proper procedures.


  4. Top | #3
    Official "Groovie" Dude
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    5,663
    Thanks
    1,459
    Thanked 744 Times in 605 Posts
    Have you considered steel siding?
    JKR and PJR832 like this.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    mjncad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Last Online
    Today @ 02:20 AM
    Location
    Front Range of Colorado
    Posts
    6,949
    Thanks
    1,785
    Thanked 547 Times in 432 Posts
    Instead of traditional house wrap, look into fluid applied products that can be rolled or sprayed on. I have no idea what the cost difference is though.

    Matt Risinger's YouBoob channel has some recent videos on fluid applied barriers. One brand is blue and was developed by a Florida based builder and chemist, which is a unique combination of professions.
    I have more ideas than ambition.


  7. The Following User Says Thank You to mjncad For This Useful Post:

    Maddog (06-06-2017)

  8. Top | #5
    JKR
    JKR is offline
    JKR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Last Online
    09-19-2019 @ 05:36 AM
    Location
    Hudson Valley NY
    Posts
    1,222
    Thanks
    52
    Thanked 106 Times in 96 Posts
    I would go with a metal building. You can get them in all shape and size's and price range.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	metal-garages-alabama-steel-garages-al-metal-buildings-alabama.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	182.2 KB 
ID:	383386
    3033R, HST, 3SVC, 60" heavy bucket with replaceable blade, H165 loader, Trans and engine heater, 60" tow behind mower.
    hydraulic top link, Line kit, 72" hydraulic power angle plow, JD pallet forks, 60" box blade, 60" scraper,
    72" rear rake, Homemade rock bucket, Post hole digger.Piranha Tooth Bar, Ballast box, rear chains,

  9. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Last Online
    09-10-2019 @ 11:40 AM
    Location
    Belton, South Carolina
    Posts
    1,646
    Thanks
    499
    Thanked 130 Times in 103 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Bulitt View Post
    If you are installing the air gap with the expectations that water will run down the side of the OSB, IMHO your osb will be rotted out in 10 yrs?
    I would install the wrap , and I would consider using the hardi board sheathing instead of the plywood- last I looked it was about 5$ a sheet more. We live 12 miles from the SC border. We have board and batten siding. All wood. House is 15 yrs old. Lots of rot on the plywood siding and most of the battens are history. My B.I.L is a builder in Wilmington, NC and they are using hardiboard now. even for the battens. The sun is so intense, and humidity, the boards expand and contract and the caulk at each batten fails in about three yrs...the wrap will save your OSB.
    I am not expecting to have issues where water condensate or vapor will be so extreme that I will have water running down the OSB. But I guess that could happen. I was thinking about residual moisture between walls & it's affect on warping T1-11 & on what water vapor might do to degrade the exterior finish like applied solid stain. For the small added cost, it probably would be better to just put up the house wrap as an added layer of protection.

    Hardiboard & Hardiplank- There is also another product like it called NICHI Products. Made in Norcross, Ga. Enterprise Web Application Development, Mobile Apps Services, Cloud Based Apps

    I think its better quality than overpriced Hardiboard. I'm considering NICHI clapboard on the front of my Barn & T1-11 on the remaining three sides. This barn is about 75 feet from my house, so I'm trying to maintain a degree of visual appearance between the barn & the house. My neighbor has a steel barn behind his house. It's a complete eyesore & I don't want to see that eyesore on my property. Thanks for your opinion. I think I will put up the house wrap. It's not a big deal to do.
    mjncad likes this.

  10. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Last Online
    09-10-2019 @ 11:40 AM
    Location
    Belton, South Carolina
    Posts
    1,646
    Thanks
    499
    Thanked 130 Times in 103 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by JKR View Post
    I would go with a metal building. You can get them in all shape and size's and price range.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	metal-garages-alabama-steel-garages-al-metal-buildings-alabama.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	182.2 KB 
ID:	383386
    Thanks- I have considered a metal building. I've also considered the cost & construction time. Construction time is a winner. Cost not so. If I try to have one fabricated to match my needs it's a huge cost. The barn is within 100 feet of my house & unless I do a custom fab job, they would make my house a complete eyesore with no curb appeal. Metal buildings are nice, but I don't want something that looks like a tin garage or a livestock pen. I am out in the country here with farms all around, & some of these structures are strictly commercial looking. I'm retired & a homeowner who just needs some extra shop & storage space. Thanks for your suggestion.
    mjncad, Drifterbike and PJR832 like this.

  11. Top | #8
    mjncad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Last Online
    Today @ 02:20 AM
    Location
    Front Range of Colorado
    Posts
    6,949
    Thanks
    1,785
    Thanked 547 Times in 432 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Maddog View Post
    Hardiboard & Hardiplank- There is also another product like it called NICHI Products. Made in Norcross, Ga. Enterprise Web Application Development, Mobile Apps Services, Cloud Based Apps
    I think the wrong link was posted.
    I have more ideas than ambition.


  12. Top | #9

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Last Online
    03-19-2018 @ 09:29 AM
    Location
    Hamilton, MI
    Posts
    1
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Maddog View Post
    I'm wondering if I should also install a house wrap over the OSB, then my 1/4' air gap & finally the finished T1-11.
    In my experience you will have more trouble with the house wrap in place than you will without. As breathable as they claim it to be I have seen more rot and mold with it in place than without.
    I would also nudge you away from T-111. You have to paint/stain it all the time and it still rots along the bottom.... at least in MI.

    Mike

  13. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Last Online
    09-10-2019 @ 11:40 AM
    Location
    Belton, South Carolina
    Posts
    1,646
    Thanks
    499
    Thanked 130 Times in 103 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by mverkaik View Post
    In my experience you will have more trouble with the house wrap in place than you will without. As breathable as they claim it to be I have seen more rot and mold with it in place than without.
    I would also nudge you away from T-111. You have to paint/stain it all the time and it still rots along the bottom.... at least in MI.

    Mike
    Yes, T1-11 can rot & warp. The last Barn I built in NY was finished in 5/8" T1-11 Southern Yellow Pine. It too 25 years of rain snow & ice to cause one panel to warp away from the girt frame at the ground level. And I stained it only two times in 25 years.

    There are a lot of materials out there classified as T1-11 but they are made from OSB, or Fiberboard and ARE not rated in many cases as structural material by code. T 1-11 is just a finish or specific look. I've seen a lot of rotted out T1-11 but the panel was not true Southern Yellow Pine. Just my experience with the material. Proper installation, correct class of material for the application & you should have no major issues for years of ownership.

  14. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •