In the beginning stages of getting a pole barn built have a question or 2
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    96PSD's Avatar
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    In the beginning stages of getting a pole barn built have a question or 2

    We are in the middle of the design stage with the pole barn company in building a 40x40x14.4 with a 16x48x16 gable end RV garage attached. I am planning to insulate the slab in the 40x40 section so that I could do a radiant heat floor at some point. I plan to have a lined ceiling and going to get double bubble walls and roof right now, will finish the walls with OSB and batt insulation later on my own when I can save up some more pennies.

    I'm in NJ

    What are peoples opinions on doing the 2" rigid foamboard and pex tubing before pouring the 5" slab versus just doing gas fired heating blower. I plan to pull natural gas into the pole barn in a separate trench when I do the electric at the same time. I am not looking to be 70 degrees, but more like 40-50 degrees. Melt the snow off vehicles and not freeze things during the winter.
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    buckteeth445's Avatar
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    There's nothing like walking on a warm concrete slab in the dead of winter. Install the radiant floor heat, you'll thank me later. Do you pay for natural gas or do you have a natural gas well?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 96PSD View Post
    We are in the middle of the design stage with the pole barn company in building a 40x40x14.4 with a 16x48x16 gable end RV garage attached. I am planning to insulate the slab in the 40x40 section so that I could do a radiant heat floor at some point. I plan to have a lined ceiling and going to get double bubble walls and roof right now, will finish the walls with OSB and batt insulation later on my own when I can save up some more pennies.

    I'm in NJ

    What are peoples opinions on doing the 2" rigid foamboard and pex tubing before pouring the 5" slab versus just doing gas fired heating blower. I plan to pull natural gas into the pole barn in a separate trench when I do the electric at the same time. I am not looking to be 70 degrees, but more like 40-50 degrees. Melt the snow off vehicles and not freeze things during the winter.
    yes-do the 2inch rigid foam board on top of ur gravel. people around here and salesmen at Lowe's and Home depot back in the winter of 02 talked me into the bubble wrap that was selling like hotcakes-according to them at the time.
    man what a let down, i can heat my floor-at 76*-but i also can then melt the snow off the ground 4 ft away from my foundation outside.
    contractors later on told me that the bubble wrap allowed the pex line's to lay to low in the concrete slab. now i see they have little towers like for ur lines to lay on-thus keeps them more to the top of the slab. i fell in love with walking on a warm floor, from a coal furnace, so i wanted to mi-nick that on our new floor. some day i'm gonna shut off the lines in the floor, and install regular old cast iron radiators along my walls. but after i have new walls built on the inside of my poured walls, then have 2 inches of foam sprayed insulation up against the cement wall-and then whatever it takes to fill the rest of the 2/4 wall.

    i've trucked in about all of Jersy yr's ago-and in the wintertime it can be as cold as up in here in the mountains, so i would spend every penny u can on that spray foam, my cousin's husband did it to his house, back when he built after us--and well sitting in house visiting him the last couple winters--before he passed on--his house was way better-than mine..

    so go with the best 2 inch board u can get for ur pipes to lay on, and don't forget to cut the wire ends off that tie ur pex lines to the rebar. they claimed they would rust in yrs to come. my wife and boy spent hrs., while i was working-picking them up back then. kinda a waste, that our floor is screwed-oh. it does work-just a waste of fuel to heat it up-to then lose it out out one wall into the ground.
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    Is this totally an equipment barn/shop, or will you be using part for livestock?
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    My nephew has been building shops for his own use for 40 years,,
    each one getting better and more comfortable.

    He gave up on "pole" construction a couple shops ago,,

    To heat the building, there has to be almost zero drafts,,
    structural gaps with pole construction make it difficult to seal a pole building.

    So, if you want warmth in the winter,, start with a well sealed structure.
    JMHO,,,
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    When we built my shop we were going to go a pole barn route. Our township required engineered drawing for one of over 1000 square feet. Mine is 1200 sq ft. 40X30X10.

    We decided to do a poured wall foundation. It was about 1000.00 more but when you subtract the cost of the engineered drawings it turned out to be roughy 300 more than a pole barn.

    So I have a building with a poured foundation and studded out with 2X6s. Will be much easier to finish off then a pole barn and I also don’t have to worry with the posts rotting away over time.

    I’m over in central PA. I think total cost was right around 30,000. That included and struck truss for an upstairs. Otherwise it would have been down around 21000.


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    J3 Driver's Avatar
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    Oh and a porch.




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    I did the same (insulating the floor, preparring for radiant heat) in my recent shed/shop build, here's the thread with pictures, maybe there's something that may help.
    It may be overkill, but I like putting 6mil plastic under the insulation, I don't want the slab to sweat and this step is really hard to do after the pour!!!
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    96PSD's Avatar
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    I will answer the a few of the questions here.

    We have natural gas from PSE&G. Not a well system. Wouldn't that be a windfall to have my own gas well.

    I plan to stone the floor then put the 6 mil plastic vapor barrier down and run it up 1'-0" up the sidewall as well then put down the 2" pink R-10 4x8 sheets of foamboard. then staple the pex tubing to the board 300' foot runs thinking 3 zones.

    The double bubble wrap is form the walls and roof for condensation control. The ceiling will be lined and the attic space will have 1'-0" vented soffits all around.

    With the 40x40 and the 16x48 and cement and utilities pulled in (electric 80amp 2 pole with two other conduits for future solar return and CAT6 cable lines, water, and gas.and installed I am close to 70k
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    Some things to look into:

    1: I've been led to understand that you want your PEX near the top of the slab, not the bottom, so rather than staple it to your bottom insulation board, you'll
    want to tie it to your rebar or mesh, which should be up on supports to put it slightly above the center of the slab, with the PEX above that. (my plan is wire ties)

    2: I'm planning something similar in the next couple of years, and my plan includes a heat zone under the RV bay(which I'll have walled off from the rest of the shop)
    so I don't have to winterize the RV. Keep it at 40 and stop worrying about freezing pipes in the RV, and have the ability to turn it up when I have to do
    maintenance/repair work on the RV instead of doing it when it's either below freezing or above 90. Something to think about.
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