Radiant floor or infared tube heat or forced air??
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    96PSD's Avatar
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    Radiant floor or infared tube heat or forced air??

    As my Pole barn starts next week, I have been hemming and hawing about the type of heating I want to do. I was all set to insulate the slab with 2" high density Styrofoam boards and do a radiant floor system. But I have been doing more reading and the fact that this is more of a weekend garage type place and storage I think I may be better off with a infrared tube heater or forced air heating. The radiant floor heating would have been for a 40x40x13 room. $1600 in insulation board, $800 for radiant floor tubing manifolds and staples and pressure test equipment for instillation. This does not include a heat source for the loop system or pump. Needing to keep it pretty much on 24/7 for the winter to get its benefits just starts to seem like a lot of money for not being a full time shop.

    I live in Central NJ for climate conditions and I can bring in natural gas from the main house meter.

    Anyone want to talk me into it or give me any better ideas?
    Last edited by 96PSD; 11-16-2017 at 11:27 PM.
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    If you have natural gas I vote for forced air. Either a normal furnace with ducting or a hanging furnace. My 26x35x12 ft ceiling works well with a hanging one. I keep it sett at 50 and turn it up when going out there.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drifterbike View Post
    If you have natural gas I vote for forced air. Either a normal furnace with ducting or a hanging furnace. My 26x35x12 ft ceiling works well with a hanging one. I keep it sett at 50 and turn it up when going out there.
    X2, I have almost the same type of setup that I heat. I have this heater it hangs from the ceiling.
    Residential Gas/Hydronic Unit Heaters | HVAC
    If I am going to work on a project I just turn up the heat and go in the house to change into work clothes. If I will be working on a project I have a big piece of cardboard I lay on.

    Doug
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    I got 2 words for you. Heat pump!
    This way you can also cool the place in hot weather. Next time you have to fix something during a heat wave you will be thanking me. lol

    Just went to a class on the new Bosch inverter systems. They only run as hard as needed. So they are more energy efficient. Also super quiet. You have an outside unit and an air handler inside.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 11-17-2017 at 05:05 AM.
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    Call around to your local hvac guys, or look on CL for a HVAC air handler/furnace. They usually sell them cheap when the AC coils go bad. Rip the coil out and hang it from your ceiling. Hook the gas up and you are nice and warm. I see them selling for 100-300$ all the time.
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    If you're just planning on using the shed on the weekends I'd steer away from the radiant floor heat. I have it in my home, and while it's a great comfortable heat once you get the slab of concrete warm, it takes a good 8-10 hours for it to reach temperature the first time you start it with a cold concrete slab. It does in my home anyway.....results may vary!
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    What about a wood burning stove. Much cheaper to operate!

    I have a diesel torpedo heater for my shop. It’s loud, smells but puts out a bunch of heat

    Brett
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulitt View Post
    Call around to your local hvac guys, or look on CL for a HVAC air handler/furnace. They usually sell them cheap when the AC coils go bad. Rip the coil out and hang it from your ceiling. Hook the gas up and you are nice and warm. I see them selling for 100-300$ all the time.
    Just went to a HVAC/boiler class on Tuesday. The teacher said rule of thumb in our area is. Start with a heat pump if no prior systems are already in place. It's the most cost effective as far as installation, maintenance and energy use. Now if you had existing radiators or needed domestic hot water a boiler would be cheeper. So it's always a case by case decision. Like what fuel/power sources are available. Odds are you will be running electric to your new building. With anything else you will have to run a gas line, get a propane or oil tank.

    JohnnyJ is right. For radiant floor to work properly it needs to be on 24/7. Heating a slab is very slow. Kind of like a water bed.
    Plus when it really gets cold it just won't be enough. So with this type of system you need secondary heat sources.

    We sometimes come across decent take out equipment. If you would be willing to pick it up. We just replaced a gas furnace but the heat exchanger was cracked. The only thing worth saving that we have in stock right now is a Navian combi boiler that ran on propane.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 11-17-2017 at 06:36 PM.
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    Well for My 28.5X30 Barn I just use one of these https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...5094_200665094 Had thought about Putting two In But will see how this winter Goes I have a second Floor In the Barn That will be a wood shop sometimes next year and I Probably go with a Mr cool https://www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOOL-D...230A/207074950 for the second floor Or maybe even Mitsubishi . When I bought this Place Last year I was told Barn Had Gas & water. all it had was 30AMP service and water was not connected to house But Piping was laid I now Have 100AMP service. and But I spend Maybe a hour a two every other night out In the Barn That I think electric heat will be fine for me since it is now a well insulated Barn
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    I'm with the others Forced air ceiling heater.

    Floor heating is great but needs on 24/7

    or a torpedo heater ,makes a lot of noise but will heat the area pretty quick. I use Diesel in mine with some odor, BIL uses kerosene in his hardly any odor.
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