What size is your.....wait for it....Storage Shed?
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    What size is your.....wait for it....Storage Shed?

    Hi - Looking for some advice and experience on storage shed sizes and specs for building a home for a 1025R. Along with the tractor I have a H120 Loader, 260 Backhoe, material collection system and 54" mid mount mower. I'm looking to buy a shed, either permanent wood structure or shelter logic canvas and frame type. Can anyone comment on size, type of floor, door size/height/width, other tips. I'd like to store all equipment in the shed and attach and unattached within the shed. I'm leaning toward a 12 x 20. If I go with a permanent wood structure I'd go with double 5/8 plywood and probably lay down some additional plywood pieces where the loader stand/bucket and backhoe stabilizer pads/bucket sit. If I go with the shelter logic frame and canvas, I'd go with the same size and erect over a stone pad. I'm concerned about drainage in the permanent wood shed after pushing snow and then it melting off the machine. Has anyone ever cut drains in a shed with a wood floor? It'd be great to also hear about maneuvering within a shed while trying to attach implements. Thanks for any advice or experience you can share - Rich

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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    I am fortunate enough to have a 30'x30' pole barn with a 10'x30' addition. The addition is what we call "the shed". It has a door at one end and I usually keep the FEL in it. If your can have a door at each end would be great IMHO. Also make sure your have good light in there. It's tough changing things out in mine with no windows.
    Jamie

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    Dingeryote's Avatar
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    24X36 and 30X60.
    8" reinforced concrete floors...I like overkill and frost heave can be nuts here.

    Wood floors aren't going to last here. It's too wet, and they don't deal with big steel things bieng shoved around on them.
    These days, a small concrete pad is actually going to be cheaper than treated wood anyhow.

    As for drainage, a slight slope to a couple dry sumps that can be cleaned out now and then is a good idea. Did that in our garage, and the snow melt just heads to the sump.

    Draining into the ground, will get the state enviro nazis in a tizzy, and it isn't a good idea for keeping oil and other stuff out of the water table.


    Figure 1.5X tractor and impliment length for comfortably attaching and detaching impliments. Any narrower and you're going to need to be creative.

    One trick is to deck over a couple Oak Pallets with 5/8 plywood, and then attach heavy casters for impliment storage.
    Drop the impliment on the pallet in the doorway, roll it to the side. Makes for easier mounting as well.
    Low cost heavy duty casters can be had at various surplus outfits.

    Don't forget to plumb for water, and at least 60 amp.
    No barn or shed is complete without a Coffee pot and small fridge.;)
    Levi and BigJim55 like this.

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    Local codes prevented me from constructing a permanent structure so I went with a 14x32 prefab garage. It houses my tractor, riding mower, loader, etc. My floor is 3/4" composite flooring on 8" centers which has a rating of well over 500 lbs per sq ft. My ballast box is nearly 800 lbs and rides on 6 casters and it is no problem to move around and does not leave any marks on the floor.

    For the winter I have a 8' x 20' very thick ribbed rubber garage floor that I roll out. It protects the wooden floor from my tire chains and the ribs contain any water from the melting snow. Last winter I had an instance where I vacuumed up over 2 gallons of water from the matt and there was still room for more.

    I keep all my implements on wheeled platforms so I can easily move them around or wheel them into position for mounting.

    I even installed fluorescent shop lights which I run from a small 3000 watt generator on those occasions when I need lights.

    Would I like to have a permanent garage? Absolutely. But since that wasn't possible this was the next best thing. It's sturdy, roomy, dry and level and it keeps all my equipment happy.
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    12x16, but it's not big enough. It was perfect for my little 180 lawnmower and attachments, but too small for the 1025R. I do have a large set of shelves along one long wall 24" deep which takes up a bit of room, but the intention was to move the garage mess out into the shed (along with anything flammable.)

    If you're strategic about how you put stuff in there I would think a 12x20 might work, but I don't have the backhoe or MCS

    I've got a 6' wide door in one end on the short side and a regular entrance door in the middle of the front long side. The ROPS when folded just barely clears the doors (wouldn't be an issue if I had them build with square doors - the builder asked me how I wanted it, straight or angled and I thought that angled would maintain the height of the door on the outside and increase the height in the middle - I was wrong.)

    Have to replace the wooden ramp I built with a gravel one at some point as the MMM drags right now as I enter.

    Had it built, delievered and placed for $3200. I painted it myself
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 051314 shed east side.jpeg   051314 shed inside.jpeg   051314 shed north side.jpeg   051314 shed trail south to firepit.jpeg  
    Last edited by sstlaure; 08-03-2014 at 03:42 PM.
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    -Scott-

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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dingeryote View Post
    24X36 and 30X60.
    8" reinforced concrete floors...I like overkill and frost heave can be nuts here.

    Wood floors aren't going to last here. It's too wet, and they don't deal with big steel things bieng shoved around on them.
    These days, a small concrete pad is actually going to be cheaper than treated wood anyhow.

    As for drainage, a slight slope to a couple dry sumps that can be cleaned out now and then is a good idea. Did that in our garage, and the snow melt just heads to the sump.

    Draining into the ground, will get the state enviro nazis in a tizzy, and it isn't a good idea for keeping oil and other stuff out of the water table.


    Figure 1.5X tractor and impliment length for comfortably attaching and detaching impliments. Any narrower and you're going to need to be creative.

    One trick is to deck over a couple Oak Pallets with 5/8 plywood, and then attach heavy casters for impliment storage.
    Drop the impliment on the pallet in the doorway, roll it to the side. Makes for easier mounting as well.
    Low cost heavy duty casters can be had at various surplus outfits.

    Don't forget to plumb for water, and at least 60 amp.
    No barn or shed is complete without a Coffee pot and small fridge.;)
    I like what's implied here. I'm thinking 30x60 would be what I'd want with money NOT being an issue or space. Plan out what you think you want and double it. More room the better because you will be putting more stuff in there then you think. The honey do list will keep getting longer as will your own list. Over size it.
    Dingeryote, k91 and BigJim55 like this.
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    k91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    I like what's implied here. I'm thinking 30x60 would be what I'd want with money NOT being an issue or space. Plan out what you think you want and double it. More room the better because you will be putting more stuff in there then you think. The honey do list will keep getting longer as will your own list. Over size it.
    Definitely make it bigger than bare minimum if you can. Remember your stuff will grow to fill whatever space you have available. My 30X32 pole building seemed cavernous at first... That was the max the local enforcers allowed without developing a detailed building plan and drainage plan.

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    I have a 12x20 shed with a 14x20 annex. Both of which are too small. I'd say 30x40 is minimum.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    '11 1026R

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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    I like what's implied here. I'm thinking 30x60 would be what I'd want with money NOT being an issue or space. Plan out what you think you want and double it. More room the better because you will be putting more stuff in there then you think. The honey do list will keep getting longer as will your own list. Over size it.
    LOL!!

    Nothing implied.

    Park one of these in a 30X60 and it's half ate up.



    Then there's three tractors, and a crapload of gizmos, saws, small engines, pumps, Log splitter, spare motors and that sort of stuff.

    The rule is, as soon as you build it, it WILL get filled.
    Our Chopper, Tiller, rake, forks, backblade still stay outside, as there is no room.

    Figure on what ya need, and double it. Then leave room for a loft....my winter project.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails treecoonsharvester036.jpg  

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    felixm22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dingeryote View Post
    LOL!!

    Nothing implied.

    Park one of these in a 30X60 and it's half ate up.



    Then there's three tractors, and a crapload of gizmos, saws, small engines, pumps, Log splitter, spare motors and that sort of stuff.

    The rule is, as soon as you build it, it WILL get filled.
    Our Chopper, Tiller, rake, forks, backblade still stay outside, as there is no room.

    Figure on what ya need, and double it. Then leave room for a loft....my winter project.
    Ok I'm a goof what is that?
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