Modifying an Existing Amish Built Pole Barn
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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    Modifying an Existing Amish Built Pole Barn

    A wise forum member advised me to seek out the advice of the other wise members here in regards to modifying my pole barn. The backstory is this barn was built in 1991 to house livestock, it had 6 stalls. The first thing I did was remove the stalls in 2006 when we bought the place. It has served us ok as a catch all and place to keep the equipment under cover. However, the poles are often/always in the way, among other things. I have been patching and replacing shingles on the roof for the last 5 years or so as the roof is original to 1991. We would like to get our camper under cover in the winter and for any extended period when we might not use it. In order to do that, mods must be made. We contemplated a new building. We got an estimate for a 28' x 48' building with 16' ceiling height. It included (2) 12' x 14' overhead doors and a man door. It would be metal sided and roofed, with no floor included in the price. Also, the Amish that gave me the estimate would dismantle the existing barn and resell the "distressed" board and no money would change hands. The estimate was $25,000. I have asked around and that seems high, as I also thought. So, we decided to try to work with what we have. The original main part of the barn measures 30' x 30'. It is built with 4" x 6" poles, 10' on center. The previous owner then added on a 10' "shed" onto the side. The shallow pitch of the roof has been a thorn in my side since day one. Unfortunately the original 30' x 30' in not big enough to house our 36.5' long camper (hitch to bumper and including the spare tire). I have had one of the civil engineers from work come out and look at the barn. He thinks what we are proposing is fine. I am including original pics and then the same pics mocked up to show our proposed mods. I'm looking for any additional thoughts or ideas, as there is more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2713.JPG   IMG_2714.JPG   IMG_2716.JPG   IMG_2717.JPG   IMG_2770.JPG  

    IMG_2771.JPG   IMG_2773.JPG  
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    Jamie

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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    Here are the mocked up pics...................Oh, and excuse the mess!!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2713 - Copy.JPG   IMG_2714 - Copy.JPG   IMG_2716 - Copy.JPG   IMG_2717 - Copy.JPG   IMG_2749 - Copy.JPG  

    IMG_2770 - Copy.JPG   IMG_2771 - Copy.JPG   IMG_2773 - Copy.JPG  
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    Jamie

    2011 JD 1026R - w/60" NON-AutoConnect MMM, FEL w/WR Long Toothbar, 47" Front Mount Snowblower, 54" Front Mount Blade w/ Rubber Edge, 48" KingKutter Tiller & Brush Hog, CountyLine Carry All and CountyLine 60" Rear Blade, Pat's EZ-Change Quick Hitch System
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    Oscar Leroy's Avatar
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    Looks like a fun project. I look forward to seeing your progress.
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    mjncad's Avatar
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    I'm just guessing; but cutting out the loft's floor joists may cause problems with load transfer to the ground, especially during the winter when you get heavy snows. The joists and floor add lateral stability too.

    If your civil engineer buddy does structural work too; this should be an easy set of calculations for him to do. Otherwise I'll bet he knows a structural engineer willing to verify what you have in mind will work.

    Just don't use corndog sticks as structural members.
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    I have more ideas than ambition.


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    BigJim55's Avatar
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    CP- i hope u find money in ur budget for a concrete floor-cause we all know how its gonna end for ya--the money will never show its ugly head of being available later--please do it now-5 yrs from now u can thank me then-ok
    jim

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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    Hope you have someone that knows what he's doing. You're changing the whole structure of the barn and the way it's held together.
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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments folks. This project or the way I have it proposed, is not carved in stone yet. Mrs. CP and I are cheap skates, so we'll see. I went back and looked at my pics, and it doesn't show that the hay loft floor is independent of the structure. The weight of the roof is transferred to the poles, not the hay loft floor joists. My engineer friend pointed that out. He also said to add as much horizontal bracing as we could up on the roof supports and the walls between the poles. Keep the comments and thoughts coming.
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    Jamie

    2011 JD 1026R - w/60" NON-AutoConnect MMM, FEL w/WR Long Toothbar, 47" Front Mount Snowblower, 54" Front Mount Blade w/ Rubber Edge, 48" KingKutter Tiller & Brush Hog, CountyLine Carry All and CountyLine 60" Rear Blade, Pat's EZ-Change Quick Hitch System
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    JDSwan87's Avatar
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    My .02 here, why don't you keep the "shed" area, just close it off from the rest of the barn? Maybe increase the pitch? I just would have trouble stomaching REMOVING covered storage. I'd keep it just for odds and ends, rakes, small yard cart, small stuff...

    As the others have said, you are changing the entire structure of the barn...

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDSwan87 View Post
    My .02 here, why don't you keep the "shed" area, just close it off from the rest of the barn? Maybe increase the pitch? I just would have trouble stomaching REMOVING covered storage. I'd keep it just for odds and ends, rakes, small yard cart, small stuff...

    As the others have said, you are changing the entire structure of the barn...

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    If I was to keep it, the roof pitch would surely change. The engineer I had out recommended removing it to eliminate any "pull" that snow accumulating on that shallow pitched roof might levy on the rest of the barn. I know a guy who I think knows a structural guy, I'm going to get in touch with him.
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    Jamie

    2011 JD 1026R - w/60" NON-AutoConnect MMM, FEL w/WR Long Toothbar, 47" Front Mount Snowblower, 54" Front Mount Blade w/ Rubber Edge, 48" KingKutter Tiller & Brush Hog, CountyLine Carry All and CountyLine 60" Rear Blade, Pat's EZ-Change Quick Hitch System
    1990 JD 185 - 46"MMM w/Power Flow Bagger

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    blue87fj60's Avatar
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    Like the others, I question the integrity when you remove all those joists and rafters. The floor joists for second level appear to handle the lateral load of the gambrel roof. Keeps it from wanting to squat down and out. Not saying something can’t be designed to stop it. Just gonna be some work involved.
    Ever think about just coming out of front with another section of building attached to store the RV?
    As far as the flat shed roof...Looks like you are due for new roof anyway. I would just build false work of rafters and mid supports angled down. Throw some purlins across rafters every two feet down and put a metal roof on it. Personally I would hate to lose storage space but I understand concerns of snow on the flatish roof exsisting now. Especially in NY.

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