New guy: shop finish out question
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    New guy: shop finish out question

    I'm about to build a 40x60 with 15' covered parking on one side and 12' covered horse stalls on the other. 3 roll up doors and a walk through.

    I'm struggling making the last few details:

    How many lights? Google says I need 70L sq.ft comes out to ~ 60 2 bulb fixtures. Just seems like a lot. In my mind I'll have three or 4 on one circuit to flip on to navigate in the dark. Then north end one on and south on a third circuit.

    How many outlets?
    I'm thinking a double outlet every 10' and run them 4' high. Then I'll put an extra box on each work area.

    How much insulation? Buddy does spray in says I only need 1" closed cell for non AC building. Seems thin.





    Blah blah blah
    Newbe
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    I think you are right to think about what kind of lighting and how much you need for different areas of your shop. The idea of just flooding the whole space with lots of uniform light doesn't make sense. That said, it would also be prudent to add an occasional junction box with an extra slack of wire in order to add fixtures as you change what you need.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjate View Post

    How much insulation? Buddy does spray in says I only need 1" closed cell for non AC building. Seems thin.
    The only purpose for spraying closed-cell insulation is to stop air flow. 1" will do that. By eliminating air flow you've taken care of 95% of the problem and it will eliminate condensation.

    They normally only recommend 2" of closed-cell for heated/conditioned residences. If you want additional insulating properties beyond that, do 1" of closed-cell and then add a couple inches of open-cell. Open-cell foam is usually cheaper than closed-cell.
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    In the Texas heat, would I benefit from 1" closed everywhere then an additional open cell on the roof?

    Or is heat from sun getting in regardless?


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    I think we need more information to help you out.

    How tall will the sidewalls be? I assume this will be a metal building. If so, are you going to add translucent siding panels along the eaves to let in filtered daylight?

    What will the shop be used for? Auto? Metal work? Wood work? A little bit of everything?

    How much electrical power do you intend to bring to the shop?

    Will the inside walls have some sort of finish on them? Metal panels? White painted plywood and/or OSB? Drywall painted white? What about the ceiling?

    Will you add heat and/or AC as you get older?

    I like the idea of closed cell spray foam to seal up air and water infiltration points, and then switch to something else. Insulation is your friend when it comes to comfort and saving energy. Insulate now while it's easy to do.

    When I had a wetdream for a shop the same size as the one you are planning; I was going to add a single highbay light in each 20'x20' bay, and use task lighting for everything else. One can get LED highbay lights now instead of the old school stuff.
    Gizmo2, Levi and techie1961 like this.
    I have more ideas than ambition.


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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    You'll lose a lot of light with an open ceiling. The amount of illumination I gained when I put white tin on my garage ceiling was impressive, and I didn't increase the number of fixtures at all.

    I'd designate some area for working space, and put a ceiling over it. I think your outlets idea is pretty good, but will add to go with 12ga wire and make them 20A circuits. The only 15A circuits in my shop are for lighting.
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    Marlin's Avatar
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    When/if I build I would put in 'general lighting' on probably 2 or 3 difference switches/circuits, so you can light the inside, add more with your second switch, and the nice and bright with switch #3. Then specific additional lights in my 'work areas'.
    Just my thoughts . . .
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    Shop is general use.

    15' walls

    I'm not painting or bringing in a false ceiling.

    I'm not wanting translucent panels as I don't want the heat that comes with them.

    I'm thinking 60 is a ridiculous amount of fixtures. I'm thinking 20 + one extra in each work area.

    I'm suprized there is not more information.


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    15' walls are good as that gives you room for a car lift, and to handle long items.

    I doubt the translucent panels will add much if any heat to the building. If anything, the sun beating down on the metal skin will heat up the place.

    If you can use as much white on the walls and ceiling; you won't need as many lights to illuminate the space.
    I have more ideas than ambition.


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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    Don't read any hostility into this post. I'm trying to help you.


    Light waves are finite and diminish over distance. You can remove the distance, you can add more intensity, or you can deal with being in the dark.

    You categorically refuse to add a ceiling panel, claim the proposed fixture requirements are too high, and how many lighting installations have you done?

    By using a ceiling, you're creating a bounce card (something used all the time in film and television - where they need lots of light), which reduces the light lost to diffraction to areas you have no need to light and sends it to areas where you do. Painting the inside of the roof white is a better option than leaving it wood or some non-reflective color or surface, but you still have the area losing lumens due to absorption/diffraction/distance. Everything that bounces off your floor and walls is going to be bounced around in the attic space before being sent back down. Eliminating that space and adding a bright reflective surface is going to pay dividends.

    Cost for the tin on my 20x24' garage ceiling was $200 and took a few hours to add in some furrow strips to attach it to without reducing the ceiling height due to my roof's framing (it's hand framed, not trussed). That was money well spent! Paint wouldn't have been much cheaper and would've taken longer to apply.

    FL tubes also lose some of their output over time, so you will have a falling off of your lumens as the years go by. You'll either need to increase the number of fixtures or keep rotating bulbs to maintain your desired light intensity when that happens. You'll also end up with dust on the diffusers and that too will cut down on the lights output.

    Lowering the lights from the high ceiling will reduce the number of fixtures needed at the floor. Having high bay lighting and an open rafter ceiling, you might be better off with metal halide fixtures - they don't come cheap though.
    mjncad, SulleyBear and techie1961 like this.
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