Picked up a broken 110TLB today...
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    Picked up a broken 110TLB today...

    Hi there everyone! Today i decided to make a deal on a 110 that had a broken bell housing, has been welded back together, was told it moved after the repair, but now does not move.

    The weld repair on the bell housing looks very good, thorough and i believe the tractor was torn all apart to get it fixed to the extent that it is, so my take on it is the PO is probably telling the truth about it moving because i dunno why anyone would go to the cost time and torture of making such a repair for it not to work..

    When i picked up the TLB i was getting a code on the little wrench light but being uneducated at the time i didn't realize it blinked a sequence to tell u what is wrong...but now i am not getting that light and from my understanding it should come on when the key is turned on to verify that it is functional... seat switch seems to be bypassed, and i think i can verify this because the PTO will engage with me off the seat.

    Everything else in the rear of the tractor seems to work just fine, hydraulics are strong and responsive, PTO comes on with no trouble,
    and the 3pt hitch arms move as expected... there is no weird noises, and when the pedals are pushed its as if nothing is being registered... my thoughts from what I've read in the past couple days is the transmission may need recalibrated... give me some input people, there are so many knowledgable people on here.

    I realize in order to recalibrate either a dealer has to do it or you need some kind of special software?? is this something i can acquire and do my self?

    Thanks to all in Advance
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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    A service manual would be an excellent investment in your machine. While we do have some members here with knowledge on 110s, there's no substitute for the factory manual.

    I believe your tractor is functionally similar to the 4X20 series, and there are some calibrations that can be done without needing factory software. I'm not familiar enough with them to be much help beyond that, though. I'm sure someone will be along shortly that can offer a bit more insight.

    Did the previous owner say how the bell housing was damaged? I doubt that has much to do with your problem, but I'm curious. Those don't really break very often...
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    arlen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 56FordGuy View Post

    Did the previous owner say how the bell housing was damaged? I doubt that has much to do with your problem, but I'm curious. Those don't really break very often...
    It seems that cracked bell housings occur on the 110's more often than one would expect. If my memory serves me, there may be some bolts that loosen up. then cause extra stress....not sure though. There have been a few threads on TBN.
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Arlen is 100% correct, this is a semi-common failure on machines that are neglected especially in the area where the loader mounts. Blake is also correct that the service manual would be invaluable, but its the same platform as the older 4x10 machines, particularly the 4710 CUT.

    This thread has some info, the calibration should be similar if not the same on your 110TLB. There is no "special software" that I know of: http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...-not-move.html
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    Thanks guys! I called the local dealer today and they have a paper copy of the manual so I'm gonna pick that up today... I'll be ecstatic if I get it moving without too much money or work... I traded a rough looking but mechanically great, 4010cut with 1036hrs, 60" loader, 48"brush hog, 60" belly mower and a 60" back blade for this 110 that's has 2700hrs and came with the 72"hd bucket and a set of forks... I hope I did the right thing... this tractor will meet more of my demands the the little 4010 did...
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    So i got the manual.... got the HST light to start working again (matter of a bad connection) but when i try to go into calibration mode the light will only stay on, it doesnt flash a code to goto the next step or to even start the calibration for that matter.. any ideas?
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    If you read the thread Kenny posted you will read in there that there are specific reasons to do the recalibration. The recalibration WILL NOT FIX ANYTHING. It will only tell the tractor what the operator is requesting the tractor to do and send that request to the hydraulic motors.

    If you moved the f12 fuse and put it in to recalibration mode you have only added to your problems. You will need to follow the directions in the Technical Manual. Exactly. Let us know when you get stuck and we will try to help.

    I am assuming the 110 tlb has the same computer system as the 4x10 series tractors.
    Last edited by MFreund1; 08-02-2015 at 05:42 PM.
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    So where do i start?? lol

    I thought that maybe since the bell housing has been welded, and the tractor was torn apart to do that, that the potentiometers were all out of wack, and by doing a recalibration would set them to zero and tell the controller where TOT and BOT of those sensors is suppose to be...

    I don't have 5volts going to the throttle sensor. Should I? I'm thinking i should have 5 volts to it no matter what and its the output voltage from it that needs to be "adjusted" along with the other potentiometers however i haven't seen if they have input voltage or not..

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    Anyone?? I thought this would be a more popular post... lol I need the tractor running In a bad way... any help is greatly appreciated... do I recalibrate first? Is my controller bad because I don't have 5 volts out? Or do I need to focus somewhere else first?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gcfisher75 View Post
    So where do i start?? lol

    I thought that maybe since the bell housing has been welded, and the tractor was torn apart to do that, that the potentiometers were all out of wack, and by doing a recalibration would set them to zero and tell the controller where TOT and BOT of those sensors is suppose to be...

    I don't have 5volts going to the throttle sensor. Should I? I'm thinking i should have 5 volts to it no matter what and its the output voltage from it that needs to be "adjusted" along with the other potentiometers however i haven't seen if they have input voltage or not..
    All the potentiometers are the same. One wire is 5v reference. Middle is the voltage going to controller. The other end is ground.

    If you do not have voltage going to any of the potentiometers, that is where you need to start. Make sure each also has ground too.

    All the potentiometers need to be set to their proper TOT and BOT before you can try to recalibrate. What I did was back probe the connections and read the voltages in "real" time. Get them all set to spec.
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