My Deere has cracks in the rear tie downs
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Thread: My Deere has cracks in the rear tie downs

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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    My Deere has cracks in the rear tie downs

    So the other day I decided to wash my Deere and noticed that there were cracks in the tie downs on the back of my machine. Not only are they cracked but they also are bent. What I don't understand is why did Deere use such thin metal for the rear tie down points? I have never pulled with my machine, this is only from trailering on occasion. I havent measured it but I believe the metal is somewhere around 1/4" thick, I would think 1/2" would be much better suited for securing a 6700 lb machine to a trailer. So all in all, I will be beefing up my tie downs soon, I need to come up with a design that will fit with what is existing and look factory (I am kinda a perfectionist) but it also has to hold up to the job. Any ideas? Here are some pictures for reference, the tie downs were also bent when I got my Deere however i straitened them out which probably influenced the crack between the tie down and it's gusset. As you can see I have ran my Deere since I washed it, yep it's dirty again. I have used red lines and red boxes to show the overall condition of my tie downs.

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    2004 John Deere 317
    66" bucket, forks, imatch adapter plate, Bobcat 72" Landplane, 60" 4 in 1 tooth bucket
    2005 John Deere L118
    42" deck, bagger
    2004 Bobcat 430
    4 buckets, brush rake, ripper, concrete breaker

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    I am curious what it measures, it looks thicker than 1/4" in the pictures-at least 3/8". If it was mine, I think I would just re-weld it. You don't know how it was abused by the previous owner.
    Kenny

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    Scotty370's Avatar
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    Ditto to Kenny's remarks...........

    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    I am curious what it measures, it looks thicker than 1/4" in the pictures-at least 3/8". If it was mine, I think I would just re-weld it. You don't know how it was abused by the previous owner.
    However- I know my limitations, and with something as important as 'Tie-Downs', I'd take it to a certified weld shop, or Kenny's house! Someone obviously has over torqued the chain binders........just to be "extra safe"! I thought they typically cross chained the rear tie-down I.E. left machine side to the right trailer corner, and right, to left trailer corner.......~Scotty

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    I would just get another piece of plate the same thickness and cut a piece that matches with the bottom half of the existing tie-down point, and weld it to the existing one. All you really need to do is reinforce the bottom of the loop to keep it from bending and fix the crack. If you do a neat job it will look factory installed.

    The strength on the factory welds should be something like 60,000 psi or something, right? That bottom loop will break long before the entire tie-down bracket pulls off the frame. As long as you only use the tie-down points to secure the machine on a trailer for hauling, and not to tow stuff around, it should last as long as the machine.
    Andy B.

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Yup, I would get out the grinder, the blue wrench (torch), drilling hammer, and my trusty welder and repair what's there. You could reinforce it if you wanted to, but you shouldn't have to. I'd be interested in the thickness measurement as well.
    - Jason

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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the suggestions guys, i really appreciate it! I will measure it when I get home tonight, I too am curious on how thick it is. I also have been thinking of beefing it up by slapping another plate to the outside (laser cut so it looks factory) to ensure my rear tie downs will last a long long time. I will probably look into getting a quote on a couple pieces of steel lasered out just to see what my upgrade would cost me. I have the access to the proper tools as well. I will keep you guys updated!
    2004 John Deere 317
    66" bucket, forks, imatch adapter plate, Bobcat 72" Landplane, 60" 4 in 1 tooth bucket
    2005 John Deere L118
    42" deck, bagger
    2004 Bobcat 430
    4 buckets, brush rake, ripper, concrete breaker

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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    Before you buy any parts, wash it off and hit the suspect areas with a wire brush. The bends aren't a big deal in my opinion, that happens on machinery that's hauled a lot and chained down improperly or too tight. It might not be cracked at the bottom, at least not all the way across. It looks like that may be a chip of metal coming loose on the top portion of the bottom, where the chain hits when you fasten it down. If that's the case, as long as the chip isn't very large and doesn't have further cracking around it, you could leave it alone. Maybe hit it with a grinder if you wanted to smooth it out some.

    Interested in seeing what you come up with!
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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    Last night I went out and did some measuring. My rear tie downs are 5/16" thick. Not really thick enough if you ask me...
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    So what did I do? In 2007 Deere upgraded several things on the 300 series, beefing up the tie downs was one of them. So since i have access to a 2007 Deere I got to do some measuring. Turns out they doubled the thickness of the tie down, 9/16" thick. This particular unit has been trailer quite a bot and tied down in the same fashion as my 317.
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    So what is next? Well this weekend I will be able to really take a look into it, if it is truely cracked it will definatly be welded, I am really thinking about having a couple 5/16" thick plates made so I can give the 317 the "2007" upgrade, however it will likely be a bigger plate of steel for extra strength. I will keep you guys updated as things progress.
    Last edited by Johndeere3720; 08-31-2012 at 02:58 PM.
    2004 John Deere 317
    66" bucket, forks, imatch adapter plate, Bobcat 72" Landplane, 60" 4 in 1 tooth bucket
    2005 John Deere L118
    42" deck, bagger
    2004 Bobcat 430
    4 buckets, brush rake, ripper, concrete breaker

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    If you want to "get" plates made, you will have to be able to supply them with a .dxf or .dwg file for the best price, if you give them a hand-drawn drawing you will have to pay them to draw it for their machine. Just getting two plates cut (plasma would be cheaper than laser, and perfectly adequate) will probably not be cost effective.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    If you want to "get" plates made, you will have to be able to supply them with a .dxf or .dwg file for the best price, if you give them a hand-drawn drawing you will have to pay them to draw it for their machine. Just getting two plates cut (plasma would be cheaper than laser, and perfectly adequate) will probably not be cost effective.
    Thanks for the advice. Sounds like a slight change of plans but gotta do what you gotta do.
    2004 John Deere 317
    66" bucket, forks, imatch adapter plate, Bobcat 72" Landplane, 60" 4 in 1 tooth bucket
    2005 John Deere L118
    42" deck, bagger
    2004 Bobcat 430
    4 buckets, brush rake, ripper, concrete breaker

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