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  1. Top | #11
    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    There can be many negative issues by limiting the stroke to one direction only. This is not recommended, by me anyway.

    In reality, once a person is proficient at operating their machine, the indicating rod is basically for attaching your implements. This really applies to a top link. As far as a side link, you simply line up the stationary side and then adjust the side link as needed.

    And of course, if you have an I-Match or other full 3pt quick hitch, then it becomes even a less important factor that needs to be considered.
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  3. Top | #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    But often you don't want "level", such as when crowing a driveway.
    obviously he wants the option to not be level or he wouldnt have the hydro side link

    i probably wasnt clear in my post..."..and just work from level down.."

    what i was trying to relay was to use snap rings to establish a condition where when he acutated the hydraulics all the way one way it would be at LEVEL.....when he went the other way he would have what ever DOWN tilt he wanted......instead of having ....UP ...LEVEL...Down.... with a unknown level point......he woudl just have from LEVEL to DOWN.....

    hopefully this is clearer....lol...
    Last edited by ttazzman; 05-13-2019 at 10:22 PM.
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  4. Top | #13
    rtgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    I think you are making too much of the need for an absolute setting of your tilt cylinder. There is nothing that you will ever do with your tractor that requires that degree of accuracy. I mean, how many folks get out a level to adjust their implements? You typically look at the left side and the right side and if they both appear roughly the same distance from the ground you declare the implement "level". :-)
    Some of us have OCD issues....

    Quote Originally Posted by trboxman View Post
    No doubt that I'm over thinking it. It's a habit...
    I have NEVER been accused of that!......


    How about a pendulum? Take the bottom half of a clock (marked in degrees) and a pointer.

    We can start over engineering from there, like adding dampeners, etc.
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  6. Top | #14
    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trboxman View Post
    No doubt that I'm over thinking it. It's a habit...
    Don't know you from Adam, but you sound like my BIL.

    Up till 5-8 yrs ago he had never done any carpenter work, mechanic for first part of his life and now coal miner for past 20-25 yrs. So he wants convert his basement to a bedroom. I go in he has 3 8' 2x4 laying across the top and bottom of the framing and then his 8 or10' long 2x4 laid in place for his studs.

    I asked him why not buy 16' 2x4 for top and bottom plates... he told me HE DID buy them cut them to 8' and every time he came to stud at the end of 2x4 he would start and end with a another 2x4 stud. 25 yrs later still does the same thing. He told me it makes the wall to weak by putting one half of 2x4 on one plate and the other half on the next 2x4 plate (base).
    Saturday he's putting vinyl siding on his garage he built. After walking around measuring ,looking, looking, measuring , and then again some more. I walked away, I had told him how to install the starter strip ..
    Each time I've tried to help him , I asked him "HAVE YOU ever done this " NO he would answer.. I would tell him,, "remember I grew up with a hammer in my hand, and helped lay blocks , helped framed houses, or putting siding on a house. You are internet smart,, and I'm not smart enough to work with you."
    Vinyl siding needs to be nailed loose and occasionally you will hit the nail to tight .It won't hurt a thing , knowing him he will have a gauge made so every nail will be the same depth.
    When he was attaching the studs to the plate, I had one or two not perfectly square or smooth to the plate, or missed the line by 1/8".. He spent close to 3 hrs making every 2x4 stud PERFECT. He would probably kil over if he stopped and looked at the framing on the homes being built today.

    MY Point there is a time and place for perfection , and other times it does not matter majority of the time using your tractor implement it doesn't matter.
    Gene

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  7. Top | #15
    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    The problem with a bubble level indicator on the impliment or quick hitch is that it's only meaningful when the tractor itself is on level ground as well. So if you're parked on a nice flat level concrete pad, super. But once you're out working, the tractor itself may no be level, so you're not going to recenter and implement with a bubble level.
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  9. Top | #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals2Paddles View Post
    The problem with a bubble level indicator on the impliment or quick hitch is that it's only meaningful when the tractor itself is on level ground as well. So if you're parked on a nice flat level concrete pad, super. But once you're out working, the tractor itself may no be level, so you're not going to recenter and implement with a bubble level.
    You are absolutely correct. My only need for the bubble level is to quickly bring my quick hitch "back to zero" so I can easily attach and detach implements. As most everyone knows, when the quick hitch isn't plumb it can be difficult to engage and disengage implements.

    But once you are out working in the dirt everything becomes relative. I guess it all depends on what type of work you are doing. If you are grading airport runways or something similar it's probably easier to just lay one of these across your implement.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails level.jpg  
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  10. Top | #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by etcallhome View Post
    Don't know you from Adam,
    You're right, you don't.

    I'm laughing at myself for bothering to ask. All of the responses of "it doesn't matter", or "it's only useful to know when you're hooking up an implement" etc. pretty much tell me all I need to know, so thanks for that...
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    rtgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trboxman View Post
    You're right, you don't.

    I'm laughing at myself for bothering to ask. All of the responses of "it doesn't matter", or "it's only useful to know when you're hooking up an implement" etc. pretty much tell me all I need to know, so thanks for that...
    You can't quit now.

    Don't go leaving me hanging out to dry all by myself.

    I have been trying to figure out something like this for, well a while.
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    Taking the easy way is what makes rivers and men crooked.

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  12. Top | #19
    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    He seems disgruntled that he asked for opinions and got them....
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  13. Top | #20
    rtgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals2Paddles View Post
    He seems disgruntled that he asked for opinions and got them....
    Well, when asking a question on an internet forum you have to have a good BS filter. That and the old saying "Opinions are like buttholes, everyone has one and they all stink."


    I want something like this so that I can repeat the angle.

    The 3 point lift has position control, markings, and even a stop that you can adjust.

    With typical T&T controls, there isn't anything to go by. Some of the older tractors had this same type of 3 point control and all the 1 series up sells/hype was the position control on the 3 point.

    Some "operators" have the experience or talent to eyeball it. Others don't think it "matters" and it is close enough.

    Some of us are a bit more OCD. They put sights on a rifle so you can hit the target, not just get close.

    Rant over. I am gonna go play with my protractors.
    Gizmo2, OxPath and trboxman like this.
    Taking the easy way is what makes rivers and men crooked.

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