Sidelink level indicator?
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    trboxman's Avatar
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    Sidelink level indicator?

    Has anyone made a sidelink level indicator for their hydraulic side link? I'm thinking it would be every bit as useful as a bucket level indicator and I'd rather not reinvent the wheel if there's a known successful design to work from.

    Box
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    I installed one of these stick-on bubble levels on the top of my Quick Hitch. It shows the level condition for all axis. It's been on for over 5 years. I also stuck one on the top edge of my bucket. It's about 2" square.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails level_indicator.jpg  
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Not Brian, or answering for Brian...But I have seen some guys place bubble and/or post levels on their Quick Hitches so they can "see" the level of the implement.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    Not Brian, or answering for Brian...But I have seen some guys place bubble and/or post levels on their Quick Hitches so they can "see" the level of the implement.
    I've seen that too.
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    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    Not Brian, or answering for Brian...But I have seen some guys place bubble and/or post levels on their Quick Hitches so they can "see" the level of the implement.
    The bubbles work great if it is on a full 3pt quick hitch and you can see. Those of us that might have some sight problems, maybe not so good.

    I am currently proto typing a rod indicator to be offered as an option later this year, but it will not be cheap. Stainless rod & tube. Price yet to be determined.
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    trboxman's Avatar
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    I have both bullseye levels and dual axis bubble levels that will tell me relative level but I don't think either one of them actually would get me back to "zero" on the sidelink. Zero is absolute and level is relative. Brian's prototype of a rod and tube level indicator is pretty much what I had in mind. I was thinking along the lines of a heim jointed rod connected close to the draft arm attaching point and a tube or ring attached to the cylinder body. I might just have to start playing with that idea and see what I come up with.
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    2038R
    72" MMM, iMatch Quick Hitch, RB2072 rear blade, BB2072 box blade, PHD200 w/9" auger, AF10F front blade, AP12F pallet forks, ballast box, Heavy Hitch, Titan 68" flail mower, Fit Rite TnT
    Z930M, 60" MOD, adjustable suspension seat
    The ranch has:
    1 flaming redheaded wife, 2 semi-feral children, 4 barn cats, 3 pups, 3 horses, 1 donkey, 1 duck and a dozen chickens

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    ttazzman's Avatar
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    just me but attaching rods that can get bent ... bending around and hard to see would not be my style...

    i would probably put snap on hydraulic cylinder rod stops to put on the cylinder at LEVEL...and just work from level down...making for a good positive "level" everytime ....or set the cylinder so all one way is level etc...
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    Quote Originally Posted by trboxman View Post
    I have both bullseye levels and dual axis bubble levels that will tell me relative level but I don't think either one of them actually would get me back to "zero" on the sidelink. Zero is absolute and level is relative. Brian's prototype of a rod and tube level indicator is pretty much what I had in mind. I was thinking along the lines of a heim jointed rod connected close to the draft arm attaching point and a tube or ring attached to the cylinder body. I might just have to start playing with that idea and see what I come up with.
    I think you are making too much of the need for an absolute setting of your tilt cylinder. There is nothing that you will ever do with your tractor that requires that degree of accuracy. I mean, how many folks get out a level to adjust their implements? You typically look at the left side and the right side and if they both appear roughly the same distance from the ground you declare the implement "level". :-)
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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    trboxman's Avatar
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    No doubt that I'm over thinking it. It's a habit...
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    2038R
    72" MMM, iMatch Quick Hitch, RB2072 rear blade, BB2072 box blade, PHD200 w/9" auger, AF10F front blade, AP12F pallet forks, ballast box, Heavy Hitch, Titan 68" flail mower, Fit Rite TnT
    Z930M, 60" MOD, adjustable suspension seat
    The ranch has:
    1 flaming redheaded wife, 2 semi-feral children, 4 barn cats, 3 pups, 3 horses, 1 donkey, 1 duck and a dozen chickens

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttazzman View Post
    just me but attaching rods that can get bent ... bending around and hard to see would not be my style...

    i would probably put snap on hydraulic cylinder rod stops to put on the cylinder at LEVEL...and just work from level down...making for a good positive "level" everytime ....or set the cylinder so all one way is level etc...
    But often you don't want "level", such as when crowing a driveway.
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    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
    FEL, MMM, Artillian 42" Forks and Modular Grapple, I-Match, Ballast Box, Trac-Vac 854 (for sale) and lots of other STUFF.
    -John Deere 455 w/60" MMM


    Bolt on Grab Hooks and other cool stuff are now for sale!!

    Visit our YouTube Channel

    My Equipment:
    John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab, 300cx FEL, 366 Front Blade, 59" Front Snowblower, Ballast Box
    Artillian 3K Forks, Grapple, Front-Hoe Bucket
    John Deere 455, 60" MMM

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