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Thread: Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit video

  1. Top | #21
    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Man View Post
    Very anxious to hear when the 1 series kit will be ready for release. Any idea on pricing for the 1 series kit?
    How many rear remotes do you want? You need 3 for the "TnT" set, do you want a 4th for ????????????????

    Use the contact page over at the FRH website and I will get back to you.

    I have to get back to work now, busy busy busy.

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  4. Top | #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    How many rear remotes do you want? You need 3 for the "TnT" set, do you want a 4th for ????????????????

    Use the contact page over at the FRH website and I will get back to you.

    I have to get back to work now, busy busy busy.
    Will do and thank you!

    I think I'd like a 4th for the 60D mowing deck. Can I keep the tool box in place with everything installed? I love my toolbox, haha!
    John Deere 1026R (MY 2012) Purchased April 2013
    H120 FEL with 49" bucket, Ken's 5/16" Bolt on Hooks & BXpanded Piranha Tooth Bar
    60D (7-iron) Autoconnect MMM
    JD 3-Bag MCS w/Honda GC160 Power "Pak"
    260 BH with 12" bucket
    Artillian 42"x3" Forks w/2" Receiver
    48" EA XTreme Duty Box Blade
    36" EA Independent Wheel Lawn Aerator w/Alternating Depth Tines
    52" Ratchet Rake
    iMatch QH

    2003 John Deere LX266
    42" Freedom Mulching Deck
    Larger LX model wheels/tires

  5. Top | #23
    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Man View Post
    Will do and thank you!

    I think I'd like a 4th for the 60D mowing deck. Can I keep the tool box in place with everything installed? I love my toolbox, haha!
    No the tool box has to go.

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
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  8. Top | #25

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    Ah okay. Looks like I could just remove it and then put it back in place once done with the TNT since it's just two bolts as it appears that the bracket can remain in place, correct?
    John Deere 1026R (MY 2012) Purchased April 2013
    H120 FEL with 49" bucket, Ken's 5/16" Bolt on Hooks & BXpanded Piranha Tooth Bar
    60D (7-iron) Autoconnect MMM
    JD 3-Bag MCS w/Honda GC160 Power "Pak"
    260 BH with 12" bucket
    Artillian 42"x3" Forks w/2" Receiver
    48" EA XTreme Duty Box Blade
    36" EA Independent Wheel Lawn Aerator w/Alternating Depth Tines
    52" Ratchet Rake
    iMatch QH

    2003 John Deere LX266
    42" Freedom Mulching Deck
    Larger LX model wheels/tires

  9. Top | #26
    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Man View Post
    Ah okay. Looks like I could just remove it and then put it back in place once done with the TNT since it's just two bolts as it appears that the bracket can remain in place, correct?
    Uh, unless your property is well over a mile long, I think that it would be quicker to make a few trips back to the garage for whatever it is that you may need. It's not just the 2 bolts for the tool box, the 2 bolts for the valve set, ALL of the plumbing to and from the valve, removal of a rear tire to get to said plumbing, other plumbing to be done due to the removal of valve plumbing. I would venture to say that maybe after you got good at doing the change over it wouldn't take that long, (an hour or two, or three????). I know for sure that I would not do it just so that I could have the OEM tool box back on the tractor so that I could have a handful of whatever when my back hoe was on the tractor or for mowing.

    So while yes you could put the tool box back on, it's not really advisable to do so, not in the OEM location anyway.

  10. Top | #27
    ElWood's Avatar
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    Hey guys, quick question. I don't mean to hijack...

    When I pull the rod into the cylinder on my top link (don't have a bottom link yet) it goes nice and slow. When I extend the rod out, it just drops my implement VERY fast. I should mention it goes slow in both directions if there is nothing on the back. Is this normal?

  11. Top | #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    Uh, unless your property is well over a mile long, I think that it would be quicker to make a few trips back to the garage for whatever it is that you may need. It's not just the 2 bolts for the tool box, the 2 bolts for the valve set, ALL of the plumbing to and from the valve, removal of a rear tire to get to said plumbing, other plumbing to be done due to the removal of valve plumbing. I would venture to say that maybe after you got good at doing the change over it wouldn't take that long, (an hour or two, or three????). I know for sure that I would not do it just so that I could have the OEM tool box back on the tractor so that I could have a handful of whatever when my back hoe was on the tractor or for mowing.

    So while yes you could put the tool box back on, it's not really advisable to do so, not in the OEM location anyway.
    Yeah, sounds like it'll become a toolbox within my toolbox in the garage, for life!
    John Deere 1026R (MY 2012) Purchased April 2013
    H120 FEL with 49" bucket, Ken's 5/16" Bolt on Hooks & BXpanded Piranha Tooth Bar
    60D (7-iron) Autoconnect MMM
    JD 3-Bag MCS w/Honda GC160 Power "Pak"
    260 BH with 12" bucket
    Artillian 42"x3" Forks w/2" Receiver
    48" EA XTreme Duty Box Blade
    36" EA Independent Wheel Lawn Aerator w/Alternating Depth Tines
    52" Ratchet Rake
    iMatch QH

    2003 John Deere LX266
    42" Freedom Mulching Deck
    Larger LX model wheels/tires

  12. Top | #29
    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElWood View Post
    Hey guys, quick question. I don't mean to hijack...

    When I pull the rod into the cylinder on my top link (don't have a bottom link yet) it goes nice and slow. When I extend the rod out, it just drops my implement VERY fast. I should mention it goes slow in both directions if there is nothing on the back. Is this normal?
    Probably my mistake. I was recommending that the flow restrictors get used with the closed (welded) end of the cylinder when it should have been on the rod end. Swap the fitting over and see if that helps, if not let me know and I will send you a second flow restrictor.

    Does it slam down if you feather the control, or is there no feathering of your SCV?

  13. Top | #30
    ElWood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    Probably my mistake. I was recommending that the flow restrictors get used with the closed (welded) end of the cylinder when it should have been on the rod end. Swap the fitting over and see if that helps, if not let me know and I will send you a second flow restrictor.

    Does it slam down if you feather the control, or is there no feathering of your SCV?
    I won't tell... Haha.

    Here is my setup...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Up goes nice and slow but down slams down. There is no feathering. I just hit and hold the button. I've been just tapping it to make fine adjustments.

    I'm not sure if it matters but I was recently having some issues with my rear plugs and I loosened one of the hoses on the cylinder to drain a little fluid. I was hoping to get things plugged back in easier. I finally figured the rear plug issue out....

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