Adding electric fuel pump to a Yamaha Rhino 660
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Thread: Adding electric fuel pump to a Yamaha Rhino 660

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    Adding electric fuel pump to a Yamaha Rhino 660

    I have a yamaha rhino 660 with about 16,000+ miles on the original powertrain. In this time, it has gone through 3 vacuum operated fuel pumps. These pumps quite literally suck- they have inconsistent flow, and you better not run out of gas or you'll spend hours repriming it.

    The stock pump died a week ago so I decided to make the switch to electric to help eliminate these issues. While there are several kits available to do this, I didn't want to spend the money on a 200 dollar pump and some wire. All said and done about 50 bucks into this (less than a new yamaha vacuum pump, btw)

    The hard part about this that the carb can only handle about 2-3 psi, or it'll flood the engine and screw up the mixture.

    For this project you'll need;

    • this fuel pump
    • red,yellow, and black wire, 16 gauge
    • 6" of 5/16 fuel line
    • a relay
    • fuse holder and 3A fuse
    • a wire nut or very small quick-splice connector
    • some type of pressure regulator (more on that later)
    • a self tapping sheet metal screw
    • various hand tools
    • electrical butt, ring and spade connectors


    I got the relay, fuse and holder, and the quick-splice connectors which are way to big (hence the wire nut) from napa. you can see the part numbers;


    so, onto the install, I forgot to get before pics so...

    remove seats, engine cover and lift the bed and hood.

    Disconnect the fuel lines from the pump. Leave the vacuum line that leads to the intake manifold, and disconnect that at the engine side.

    Now, use a 5/16 socket to remove the 2 bolts that hold the pump on the bracket. save the pump.

    I was surprised to find that the new electric pump bolted right up. its at a funny angle but hey, it works. Take care to install it the correct direction. This pic shows how it mounts;

    Now take your red wire, starting on the passenger side. Thread it through the tunnel next to the engine and pull it through under the hood. Run it up to the battery box however you like. This is the wire that feeds the pump, so make sure it can be routed to the pump wires.



    as you can see it came out on the other side, so I routed it across and zip tied it on.

    Now take another piece of red wire, and measure how much you need depending on how you want to route it. Start at the positive terminal and rout it however you like to wherever you want your relay mounted. This is your power feed. Strip the ends and add a female flat connector to one end, and a ring terminal on the other. Set aside for now.

    You need a ground for the relay. Do the same as the last step except use black wire, and start at the negative terminal. again set it aside.


    Now it's time to hook things up. The pump came with this wacky plastic doodad on the end of the wires. Cut it off and strip the wires. On the black wire, trim it down and add a split spade terminal. Loosen one of the mounting bolts and clamp the terminal between the bolt head and pump, and tighten the bolt. This is the pump ground;


    Now strip the end of the red wire you ran through the tunnel. Add a butt connector and splice to the red wire on the pump. Sorry, no pic.
    On the other end of this wire, strip it and add a butt connector. Take the fuse holder and secure one of the wires with the butt connector. Add a female terminal to the other wire. Go ahead and put in the fuse now, too.



    Lets hook up the relay. using the female terminals preinstalled, Connect the pump feed wire via the fuse holder to pole 87, and then connect the red battery supply wire to pole 30. Connect the black ground to either 85 or 86, it doesn't matter which.

    This leaves an empty terminal on the relay. This is the trigger. You don't want the pump running all the time- just when the key is on.

    Locate the starter solenoid. It has 2 thick cables and 3 or 4 small wires coming out of it. Strip the black tape away from the small wires to give yourself enough to work with. Locate the small yellow wire with a blue stripe.

    using yellow wire, measure a strip from the yellow solenoid wire to the relay location. add a female terminal to one end.

    At this point, you have 2 options, either use a quick splice connector or a wire nut. If using a wire nut, strip the other end. If using a quick splice, just leave it alone. If using a quick splice, place it over the solenoid wire, and insert the yellow wire you just made. clamp it in and your done!

    Wire nut method requires you to cut and strip the solenoid wire, and place both ends in a bundle with the new yellow wire, and secure it with a wire nut;


    Hook the other end of the yellow to the empty spot on the relay. Hook the black ground to the battery and turn the key on- the relay should click.


    Hook the red battery feed to the battery and turn on the key. The pump *should* run. don't burn it up by leaving it on for more than a few seconds.

    At this point, wrap up your relay and wires in electrical tape, and secure it to your mounting point. I have a pic but itunes is giving me fits tonight so stay tuned.

    Hook up the fuel lines. The line with the filter (supply line) goes on the bottom end of the pump. Use the 6" of new line to go from the pump to the return tee. You will have to remove the existing line from the tee.



    You need a pressure regulator. You can find your own or do what I did- use the old pump backwards. Locate the line coming from the carb and cut it in half. Install the old pump with the right angle fitting on the supply side (from the new pump) and the straight side to the carb; Failure to do this correctly will result in all fuel going back to tank and not reaching the carb. Please verify flow before you go further.


    please ignore the zip tie on the intake boot.

    At this point, you should have a functioning fuel system. But it will not run without a very important step. You MUST use a small self tapping screw to plug the vacuum port on the intake or it WILL NOT RUN CORRECTLY!!! See the previous pic.

    Secure everything with zipties to your satisfaction. I have more pics, but itunes error so stay tuned for that. Also, make sure that the pump is only on when the key is on.

    If all went well, you will have added an electric fuel pump to your carbureted rhino. Gone are the days of priming the fuel system for hours after running out of gas, or crummy performance. Everything works great now on my rhino.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0112.JPG   IMG_0124.JPG   IMG_0120.JPG   IMG_0126.JPG   IMG_0118.JPG  

    IMG_0121.JPG   IMG_0123.JPG   IMG_0117.JPG   IMG_0127.JPG  
    Last edited by johnH123; 10-01-2018 at 07:19 PM.
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    ZachinCO (10-01-2018)

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    as long as it runs-good job i say.
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    I may have to try this during winter!


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    So how did you figure out the regulator deal with the old pump? I assume it runs ok as it is. Nice job BTW!
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    johnH123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillieS View Post
    So how did you figure out the regulator deal with the old pump? I assume it runs ok as it is. Nice job BTW!
    Someone mentioned it on another forum. I tried and it didn't works so on a whim I flipped it around backwards.

    Not sure what you mean by this, but the old pump was AWOL so it wouldn't run. I added the new electric one and used the old pump as a regulator. Works great now.
    Last edited by johnH123; 10-02-2018 at 11:31 AM.
    BigJim55 likes this.
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    -Countyline box blade,
    -Allis Chalmers sickle mower,
    -RED windrow rake,
    -titan 48" 3000 pound forks/bale spear
    - Farm Star rear bale spear

    Yamaha Rhino 700, Yamaha Rhino 660,
    Murray 624 mower/38" deck

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnH123 View Post
    Someone mentioned it on another forum. I tried and it didn't works so on a whim I flipped it around backwards.

    Not sure what you mean by this, but the old pump was AWOL so it wouldn't run. I added the new electric one and used the old pump as a regulator. Works great now.
    Sometimes when you flip things around like that it restricts the flow, built in backflow preventer. So at full throttle you tend to run low or out of fuel. That was why I asked how does it run now.
    2019 3046r, 385A BH, FEL, JD Ballist box, 6' 3pt hitch rake, 4 way 48" snow blade, 7' 3pt hitch drag blade
    Zero turn Z445, 5' 3pt hitch woods mower, 42" Artillian Pallet forks W/Adapter for snow plow, Standard 3pt hitch receiver to move trailers.
    I haul the tractor with a 2015 2500HD Chevrolet Silverado 4X4 6.6L Duramax W/Allison transmission a 2013 18' 7500lb dove tail trailer made by Appilachian trailers.
    Stihl MS271 Farm Boss Chain Saw 18" blade, Piranha Bar.

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