6x4 Gator is overheating.... help!
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 33
Like Tree147Likes

Thread: 6x4 Gator is overheating.... help!

  1. Top | #1
    Lauraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Last Online
    05-02-2019 @ 08:08 AM
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Thanks
    20
    Thanked 5 Times in 1 Post

    6x4 Gator is overheating.... help!

    Good Morning having a few issues with my new-to-me 2003 6x4 Gator. Its overheating after driving it a short distance. A good friend helped me with it yesterday, and we were able to answer a few questions, but now seems to be even more puzzled? So, here goes... The Gator's red temp light on the dash comes on after its been driven just a short while. I replaced the lower radiator hose a few weeks ago (it had split open) and not certain if I now have an air gap in the system or just what is going on? This is what I do know, The radiator is filled as is the overflow tank. I've driven it over bumpy terrain in an attempt to move any air pockets. Yesterday we pulled the upper radiator hose by the carb and found there wasn't a thermostat. Huh? Now have a new one for it. Removed the small hose that carries water from one side (by carb) to side by water pump. When we did this it did seem like there was air in the line as it "poofed" and splattered a little antifreeze when it came off. Pulled the 12mm bolt by the carb and poured water in while engine was running. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are warm, so I believe water is circulating. Don't know if the fan is coming on or not? Is there a way to test the fan by jumping from the battery? Also wondered if maybe its a faulty wiring issue causing the light on the dash? Found antifreeze on the concrete slab it is parked on and have no idea where its coming from. Any guidance is greatly appreciated!
    pcabe5 and PJR832 like this.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    Herminator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:04 PM
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    3,631
    Thanks
    1,587
    Thanked 761 Times in 579 Posts
    Service Engine


    Perhaps you have this already but it should help.

    My question is does it seem hot when the light comes on? I doubt the wiring is bad but the switch could be. Was it overheating before the lower hose was changed? There is a bleed screw mentioned in this manual after the coolant is refilled.
    The coolant on the driveway. I would look around the water pump, that is usually where they start leaking first but there is 2 gaskets for the water pump and it also has a gasket between the front motor housing and the block the coolant also flows through to and from the water pump.

    It certainly could be the fan but on my HPX it takes quite a lot of work for the fan to turn on. The motor for the fan should have a plug with two terminals so jumping it to test it should work.
    Last edited by Herminator; 01-01-2019 at 01:00 PM.
    Gizmo2, North585, pcabe5 and 5 others like this.
    Welcome to Intermission.

    2017 2038R, 400, 3020 & HPX and thingies to hook to the them.
    112 - Sold in July 2017 but took me until November to admit I just cast it out into this cruel world.
    #compactfarmer

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Herminator For This Useful Post:

    Gebada22†(01-01-2019), Lauraleigh†(01-01-2019)

  5. Top | #3
    bhill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:26 AM
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    300
    Thanks
    85
    Thanked 53 Times in 41 Posts
    It sounds like you have followed the service procedures according to the information @Herminator provided.

    Could the coolant on the slab be residual fluid that may have dripped off the engine from bleeding the coolant at the bleed screw?
    MDrew, OxPath, Herminator and 1 others like this.
    2006 JD 3520
    300CX
    I-Match
    Frontier BB2272
    Frontier AF11E-6 Way Snow Blade
    Frontier SS1079 Poly Spreader
    ABI Classic 50 Manure Spreader
    Speeco Model 65 PHD
    Land Pride- Rotary Deck Mower
    Rimguard 610 lbs
    Ballast Box 510 lbs
    Artillan Forks
    Kens Bolt On Hooks.
    2012 JD Gator 825i
    Deluxe Cab with heat

  6. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to bhill For This Useful Post:

    Gebada22†(01-01-2019), Lauraleigh†(01-01-2019)

  7. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  8. Top | #4
    xcopterdoc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:31 AM
    Location
    nc
    Posts
    1,613
    Thanks
    181
    Thanked 812 Times in 319 Posts
    The 6x4 has 2 temp switches. One on the engine to turn on the light and one in the radiator to turn on the fan.
    If there is an air lock the hot light will turn on and the fan will not turn on due to lack of coolant flow. Getting rid of the air lock is a beach. If the engine is full and the radiator is full you can still have air in one of the hoses. Seeing as you changed the lower hose again I suspect air in system. So.. Try this.. Remove the radiator cap. Remove the bleed screw on thermostat housing. Use the lower radiator hose as a pump. Squeeze the hose like a primer bulb. Work it slow and see if any bubbles come out of the open radiator cap and/or bleeder screw. Keep topping of radiator as needed. Once that is done, start and run engine at high idle. Feel the lower and upper hoses. The top should feel hotter than bottom. It will get quite warm before the fan kicks on.
    The fan is activated on the ground side by the temp switch in the radiator. It will always have battery voltage as long as the key is on. Check for voltage to fan with key on then jumper a ground to see is fan comes on.
    As far as the leak goes.. As previously stated, the waterpump is a good place to look as is the hose that you just put on. Double check your work. Or could be just some residual coolant laying in the frame rail, engine skid plate area ect.. dripping out.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

  9. The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to xcopterdoc For This Useful Post:

    eyeboltman†(01-01-2019), Gebada22†(01-01-2019), Gizmo2†(01-03-2019), Herminator†(01-01-2019), Lauraleigh†(01-01-2019), OxPath†(01-01-2019), pcabe5†(01-01-2019), PJR832†(01-03-2019)

  10. Top | #5
    Lauraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Last Online
    05-02-2019 @ 08:08 AM
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Thanks
    20
    Thanked 5 Times in 1 Post
    Quote Originally Posted by xcopterdoc View Post
    The 6x4 has 2 temp switches. One on the engine to turn on the light and one in the radiator to turn on the fan.
    If there is an air lock the hot light will turn on and the fan will not turn on due to lack of coolant flow. Getting rid of the air lock is a beach. If the engine is full and the radiator is full you can still have air in one of the hoses. Seeing as you changed the lower hose again I suspect air in system. So.. Try this.. Remove the radiator cap. Remove the bleed screw on thermostat housing. Use the lower radiator hose as a pump. Squeeze the hose like a primer bulb. Work it slow and see if any bubbles come out of the open radiator cap and/or bleeder screw. Keep topping of radiator as needed. Once that is done, start and run engine at high idle. Feel the lower and upper hoses. The top should feel hotter than bottom. It will get quite warm before the fan kicks on.
    The fan is activated on the ground side by the temp switch in the radiator. It will always have battery voltage as long as the key is on. Check for voltage to fan with key on then jumper a ground to see is fan comes on.
    As far as the leak goes.. As previously stated, the waterpump is a good place to look as is the hose that you just put on. Double check your work. Or could be just some residual coolant laying in the frame rail, engine skid plate area ect.. dripping out.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    Thank you all so much for the guidance. We made some headway working on the Gator today. Here's what I *think* we figured out:

    -New Thermostat is opening and closing as it should based on temp to the touch of upper and lower radiator hoses. Since hoses reflect changes in temp once thermostat is open, I'm lead to believe my water pump is indeed pumping.

    - I think we have successfully purged any air out of the cooling system by removing the bolt on top of the engine and adding water to the radiator while manually pumping the lower radiator hose. No more bubbles, system is full, so I think we're good to go there.

    - Bypassed the fan and was able to make it run so we know the fan is working.

    Here's what I'm not understanding just yet:

    1)When we bypassed the radiator temp switch using a 12g wire to allow the fan to run constantly, why wouldn't the hot temp light on the dash go off? They cooling system seemed to be working - the lower radiator hose was moving cooled water to the motor and the upper hose was returning hot water to the radiator. No leaks were visible (I still have no idea where the coolant on the floor came from - maybe it was residual). Is my machine actually overheating?

    2)If the sensor temp switch up by the motor (the one responsible for the dash light) were bad, would that be giving me a false read by illuminating the light on the dash? Seems like those switches close and complete the circuit when they warm to a certain temp. Maybe that switch is bad?

    2)Wondering that same thing about the radiator temp switch? Used a continuity tester on it while both cold and while hot enough to make the dash light come on, but couldn't get a read. Seems like the switch wasn't closing?

    Again, thank you all so much for your help with all my questions! Its great to have found a community of people who are so knowledgable. I'll post pics and update my profile as soon as I play around a little more and figure out more about how the site works.

    Laura
    DRobinson, pcabe5, MDrew and 4 others like this.

  11. Top | #6
    xcopterdoc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:31 AM
    Location
    nc
    Posts
    1,613
    Thanks
    181
    Thanked 812 Times in 319 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Lauraleigh View Post
    Thank you all so much for the guidance. We made some headway working on the Gator today. Here's what I *think* we figured out:

    -New Thermostat is opening and closing as it should based on temp to the touch of upper and lower radiator hoses. Since hoses reflect changes in temp once thermostat is open, I'm lead to believe my water pump is indeed pumping.

    - I think we have successfully purged any air out of the cooling system by removing the bolt on top of the engine and adding water to the radiator while manually pumping the lower radiator hose. No more bubbles, system is full, so I think we're good to go there.

    - Bypassed the fan and was able to make it run so we know the fan is working.

    Here's what I'm not understanding just yet:

    1)When we bypassed the radiator temp switch using a 12g wire to allow the fan to run constantly, why wouldn't the hot temp light on the dash go off? They cooling system seemed to be working - the lower radiator hose was moving cooled water to the motor and the upper hose was returning hot water to the radiator. No leaks were visible (I still have no idea where the coolant on the floor came from - maybe it was residual). Is my machine actually overheating?

    2)If the sensor temp switch up by the motor (the one responsible for the dash light) were bad, would that be giving me a false read by illuminating the light on the dash? Seems like those switches close and complete the circuit when they warm to a certain temp. Maybe that switch is bad?

    2)Wondering that same thing about the radiator temp switch? Used a continuity tester on it while both cold and while hot enough to make the dash light come on, but couldn't get a read. Seems like the switch wasn't closing?

    Again, thank you all so much for your help with all my questions! Its great to have found a community of people who are so knowledgable. I'll post pics and update my profile as soon as I play around a little more and figure out more about how the site works.

    Laura
    Have ya her figured out?

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    Herminator and PJR832 like this.

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to xcopterdoc For This Useful Post:

    Lauraleigh†(01-03-2019)

  13. Top | #7
    Lauraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Last Online
    05-02-2019 @ 08:08 AM
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    22
    Thanks
    20
    Thanked 5 Times in 1 Post
    No, unfortunately not. Picked up more parts to install - rad sensor switch, and temp switch that contols dash light and new rad. cap. Will keep trying to see if thereís air still somewhere in the system? Have driven it over bumpy terrain, etc, but still reads hot after about a mile. A temp gun would be ideal.....

    Interestingly, I use this to clean stalls every am and then dump the manure. Its doesnít run long enough to get hot this time of year. However, every 2-3 nights Iím getting a large puddle of antifreeze under it??? Like 1/3 qt! Something is not right. I cannot seem to track this leak down. To the best of my knowledge, thereís no such thing as intermittant coolant leaks, Lol!

    Laura
    Gizmo2, OxPath, Herminator and 1 others like this.
    JD Gator 6x4 (gas), JD 1070 with 80 front end loader and 72 mower, JD F-911, JD RX-73, (2)JD RX-75, JD Brushhog, Woods landscape rake, Woods back blade

  14. Top | #8
    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 07:54 AM
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    33,627
    Thanks
    5,606
    Thanked 3,787 Times in 2,824 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Lauraleigh View Post
    Interestingly, I use this to clean stalls every am and then dump the manure. Its doesnít run long enough to get hot this time of year. However, every 2-3 nights Iím getting a large puddle of antifreeze under it??? Like 1/3 qt! Something is not right. I cannot seem to track this leak down. To the best of my knowledge, thereís no such thing as intermittant coolant leaks, Lol!

    Laura
    It may only leak when cold/cooling down. I just replaced a water pump seal on our 2320 that did his. It was hard to find the leak, once the engine was started all bets were off.
    MDrew, OxPath, mark02tj and 2 others like this.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD, The Wife
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

  15. The Following User Says Thank You to Gizmo2 For This Useful Post:

    Lauraleigh†(01-03-2019)

  16. Top | #9
    MDrew's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 07:08 AM
    Location
    S.E. WI
    Posts
    3,792
    Thanks
    267
    Thanked 615 Times in 394 Posts
    The water pump seal on my HPX has started to weep a little during cool down. I just happened to see it while the box was up.
    Gizmo2, OxPath, Herminator and 1 others like this.
    Mike

    Sometimes I'm only funny to myself.

    300, 140, 318, 430, 314, 110. Brinly plows, disk, 80 cart, couple of 49 blowers, 3 54 blades, 33 tiller, tilt dump MCS, HPX Gator, CS Gator, Model A. Struck MD 750 w/bucket and hoe.
    Drew's Performance: We screwed the last guy so we can pass the savings on to you.

  17. The Following User Says Thank You to MDrew For This Useful Post:

    Lauraleigh†(01-03-2019)

  18. Top | #10
    Herminator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:04 PM
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    3,631
    Thanks
    1,587
    Thanked 761 Times in 579 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by MDrew View Post
    The water pump seal on my HPX has started to weep a little during cool down. I just happened to see it while the box was up.
    I hope itís not catching. I did a water pump in Dadís UTV 2 years ago and my buddyís 445 last year but they are both older than mine..
    Gizmo2, OxPath and PJR832 like this.
    Welcome to Intermission.

    2017 2038R, 400, 3020 & HPX and thingies to hook to the them.
    112 - Sold in July 2017 but took me until November to admit I just cast it out into this cruel world.
    #compactfarmer

  19. The Following User Says Thank You to Herminator For This Useful Post:

    Lauraleigh†(01-03-2019)

  20. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts