Filled tires vs weight rack
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    Filled tires vs weight rack

    My 1025r has turf tires that were filled by my dealer. I also purchased wheel weights for use in the winter while plowing. The dealer suggested filling the tires for weight while using the FEL. The majority of my use with the tractor is mowing. My soil is clay, and when I mow in some of the lower areas that are wet, it tends to sink and leave ruts. I recently saw a three point hitch suitcase weight rack by Heavy Hitch. I was thinking of removing the fluid from the rear tires and using the hitch system when I am using the loader. Does anyone have thoughts or suggestions?

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Thatís a common way to provide ballast for loader work. Itís nice since it is easily removable.

    Actually, ballast on the 3-point arms is more effective for loader work being the weight is behind the rear axle. Loaded tires are more for traction than ballast actually but that has been a debated topic....

    For your situation removing the liquid in the tires would be a good move. Just remember to attach your ballast when you do loader work. Thatís where an iMatch hitch is nice.

    And just one word of caution - if you remove the liquid ballast in the tires you might find yourself stuck instead of leaving ruts.
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    bob
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    I have a Heavy Hitch weight rack. It is very well built, compact, and will certainly help with loader work. I also have a ballast box that is filled with gravel that I believe weighs more than the Heavy Hitch rack with weights. I also have the Heavy Hitch cart stand for the weight rack. I made a roll cart for the ballast box. I think that either of these would work well for you. The ballast box option might cost less. In either case, if you are storing your tractor indoors, the roll carts simplify attaching and taking off the weight, as well as assists in moving the ballast.
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    I have the deere ballast box that I use when needed. I filled it with 500lbs cement. I have used my loader to lift some large logs. I also switched my tires to HDAP like on the 758 and have no trouble with traction during plowing.
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    With or without filled tires, you still need weight on the rear to safely and effectively use the loader. Thus is well detailed in the loaders operators manual. Your dealer should know better too.

    This thread has great info too: https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...-you-need.html
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    How much weight is in your rear tires ? I donít think removing 1 - 200lbs is going to help much in reducing ruts.

    I have a 1026 with filled tires and 2 sets of 50lbs wheel weights. I donít notice any difference in ruts / damage to my lawn when the weights are off, so I now leave them on year round. I do notice reduced traction when the wheel weights are off the tractor. I have r4 tires .
    Eric

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    As others have suggested I would check the loader manual and follow the suggestions there. I recently purchased a 2018 1025R with an after market 4 in 1 FEL and the dealer said that filling the tyres with fluid would be sufficient ballast but that is not so. Moving across a fairly gentle slope the centre of gravity is pushed forward and downslope and stability issues arise without any load. I took the FEL off until I could acquire some weights and a fabricated bracket (Heavy Hitch are not sold in Australia). I have just started to use the FEL again now and the weight makes all the difference. Perhaps on flat ground you can get away with it but not on slopes. I think I would live with the ruts. My FEL might be heavier than the H120 at 355Kg but even so....
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    Well, I know the common theme is loaded tires, but I never have, for reasons you describe.
    Around here, Id have to stay off the lawn most of Spring and early Fall. This year it would have been all year.
    Without weights, I dont leave too deep of a rut if its soft. You can see the tread pattern, but it fades fairly quickly.
    Now, the one time I did have to venture across an area to get to a downed tree, with the backhoe on as ballast, you can still see the ruts a month later.

    If you have soft areas, ditch the filled tires. This is why Im such a fan of cast iron weights. You can add or remove as needed.
    You should have plenty of weight to not get stuck if you have grassy areas without the filled tires. Your dealer sure should have known better than to tell you that would suffice for loader work.
    Heavy hitch makes several different brackets. If you want LOTS of weight, get the one that holds two sets of the 42# weights, which would give you 672#. You can also get one thats made with the bar the weights ride on mounted higher so that the big 70# weights fit it. In that case, you could end up with 560# plus the weight of the bracket and Imatch.
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    Lots of great advice. In defense of my dealer he did suggest the ballast box, but I was concerned at the time with storage. He advised I could try the wheel weights and the filled tires for light loader work. Now I have more garage storage space. I like the looks of the heavy hitch with 42# weights. Not sure how many weights to use.
    BigJim55 likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eddyJ#9022 View Post
    Lots of great advice. In defense of my dealer he did suggest the ballast box, but I was concerned at the time with storage. He advised I could try the wheel weights and the filled tires for light loader work...
    A reminder; the primary purpose of proper ballasting is to provide stability - especially lateral stability. The front axle is on a pivot, as you add weight to the front of the tractor the center of gravity moves away from the solid rear axle and towards the pivoting front axle. Wheel weights, fluid filled tires and especially a ballast box will all serve to move the center of gravity closer to the rear axle.

    Sure, if you are careful and the work is light you can get away without ballast. Don't become complacent though, that is when physics will remind you that there is a good reason for ballasting the right way. You'll be much safer if you get a ballast box (or heavy hitch).

    As for removing the fluid in your tires, I wouldn't bother. It would be difficult to remove it all, and I doubt that the ~70lbs that you were able to remove would make a noticeable difference in the ruts it would leave - and it would make the tractor less stable when doing loader work.
    Last edited by W9GFO; 08-28-2018 at 07:56 PM.
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