Tire chains: yes/ no?
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    Tire chains: yes/ no?

    I'm looking for some tire chains but have some questions before I proceed to get them:

    1. Mount chains on the front only?
    2. Mount chains on the back only?
    3. Mount chains on all four wheels?

    At this moment, I only have the bucket but it seems to do well so far. Yes, it's slower this way but it fits within my budget.

    Also, can anyone recommend a good source for chains? So far, all the sources which I have found are on the West coast which makes me shudder when I think about the cost of shipping.

    Thanks!

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    What tractor are you talking about mounting chains on? The model matters. Some are much more complicated to put chains on -- especially when it comes to the front wheels.

    Many here bought their chains at tirechain.com. They are out of PA but I'm not sure if they'll ship to Canada or not. It can't hurt to ask them.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimR View Post
    What tractor are you talking about mounting chains on? The model matters. Some are much more complicated to put chains on -- especially when it comes to the front wheels.

    Many here bought their chains at tirechain.com. They are out of PA but I'm not sure if they'll ship to Canada or not. It can't hurt to ask them.
    Hi Jim,
    Thank you for your reply.

    My mistake. I have a 1023e, which I took delivery last April so this was my first introduction to a tractor, in the winter, without chains.

    I have the R4 tires and a FEL which I use to move the snow around. So far, I don't have any rear weight. That's probably not the smartest move at the moment, but everything in due time.

    Also, making purchases in the USA isn't a problem because there is a brokerage company located in Ogdensburg NY. Anything that I buy, where the origin is in the USA, I have shipped to this company. I then cross the border, pick up my package, declare it with Canadian Customs and head home. Many, many times it's cheaper to shop USA, despite the exchange rate.
    Last edited by Austinmini; 03-25-2019 at 11:40 AM.
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Personally, I would focus on weight on the rear BEFORE chains. The rear ballast weight is important all 12 months of the year, where the chains are needed maybe 4 or 5 months.

    If you were to add chains, you should put them on the rear first as not many instances need the chains on the front unless you have some unique needs. There are a couple of GTT with front chains, but most simply don't need them.

    I have the 1025R and with the proper weight you can plow very successfully WITHOUT any chains.

    Frankly, I avoid tire chains when ever I can as they score the pavement, leave rust on the surface where you park and they can also break and flail about and damage the tractor.

    If anything, I would get the weight first on the rear weight bar and then see if you even need chains.

    I plow the equivalent of 700 to 1,000 driveways every winter and haven't needed chains on my tractor and I use a very large front mounted snow plow. Some drives have steep hills and other challenges.

    Before you get into chains, I would recommend the weight, plus you can use the weight all 12 months of the year. How much weight? Depends, but I would guess from 300 to 500 pounds would cover your needs. I would recommend the rear weight bracket and suitcase weights so its easy to change.

    You really want to be very careful about using the FEL without the proper real ballast weight. It can be very dangerous.
    Last edited by SulleyBear; 03-25-2019 at 12:00 PM. Reason: added content

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...ont-rears.html

    Do a search on Chains (titles only). Lots of good info.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...ont-rears.html

    Do a search on Chains (titles only). Lots of good info.
    ^^^^^^ What he said. If you have any energy left you can then search for "What oil should I use". :-) Seriously, the chain question has been asked and discussed many many times. Everyone's tractor / driveway / snow consistency / terrain / etc. is different. Some have never used chains while others have never NOT used chains. :-)

    If you do not want to buy them over concerns that you may not need them then certainly give a few winters a try without. You should reach your own conclusion fairly quickly whether they are needed in your situation. :-)
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    Personally, I would focus on weight on the rear BEFORE chains. The rear ballast weight is important all 12 months of the year, where the chains are needed maybe 4 or 5 months.

    If you were to add chains, you should put them on the rear first as not many instances need the chains on the front unless you have some unique needs. There are a couple of GTT with front chains, but most simply don't need them.

    I have the 1025R and with the proper weight you can plow very successfully WITHOUT any chains.

    Frankly, I avoid tire chains when ever I can as they score the pavement, leave rust on the surface where you park and they can also break and flail about and damage the tractor.

    If anything, I would get the weight first on the rear weight bar and then see if you even need chains.

    I plow the equivalent of 700 to 1,000 driveways every winter and haven't needed chains on my tractor and I use a very large front mounted snow plow. Some drives have steep hills and other challenges.

    Before you get into chains, I would recommend the weight, plus you can use the weight all 12 months of the year. How much weight? Depends, but I would guess from 300 to 500 pounds would cover your needs. I would recommend the rear weight bracket and suitcase weights so it's easy to change.

    You really want to be very careful about using the FEL without the proper real ballast weight. It can be very dangerous.

    I've been doing a lot of research on a ballast box. Quite frankly, it can be overwhelming. As this was my first winter, and my first official lesson, I didn't know what to expect. I've been stupid busy around the house trying to keep up with everything but a ballast box is on the "I'll get there" list.

    On the note of making a ballast box, I have read articles and seen where people have used metal, placed perpendicular to the horizontal bar, so as to add more area for the cement to adhere and apparently makes for a stronger bond. Not a bad suggestion, I think. Plus, I will add a bracket to attach to the top bar of the 3 pt hitch.

    Time for more research.....and a trip to buy some more metal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Austinmini View Post
    Hi Jim,
    Thank you for your reply.

    My mistake. I have a 1023e, which I took delivery last April so this was my first introduction to a tractor, in the winter, without chains.

    I have the R4 tires and a FEL which I use to move the snow around. So far, I don't have any rear weight. That's probably not the smartest move at the moment, but everything in due time.
    I have a slightly larger machine but R4s in general aren't great in snow. I bought chains the 1st year I had my tractor (2014!) but never used them until this year. I'd slip and slide a little usually but this winter we got a storm that was 9" of slush. I couldn't get moving enough to push anything anywhere so the chains went on and it made a world of difference.

    In light fluffy snow pretty much any tractor works. It's the sloppy stuff that causes problems.

    I only use chains on the rear and thusfar, the thing is like a tank with them. I don't see a situation where I'd want them on the front. But do read the other threads as suggested. There is a lot of good info in them!
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimR View Post
    I have a slightly larger machine but R4s in general aren't great in snow. I bought chains the 1st year I had my tractor (2014!) but never used them until this year. I'd slip and slide a little usually but this winter we got a storm that was 9" of slush. I couldn't get moving enough to push anything anywhere so the chains went on and it made a world of difference.

    In light fluffy snow pretty much any tractor works. It's the sloppy stuff that causes problems.

    I only use chains on the rear and thusfar, the thing is like a tank with them. I don't see a situation where I'd want them on the front. But do read the other threads as suggested. There is a lot of good info in them!
    Hi Jim,
    I certainly will research more before I make the investment.

    Last month - February 13th to be exact - we received a dumping of snow. Combine that with the thaw-freeze cycle and we had some of the most slippery conditions that I have ever seen. Yes, in the snow, there's not much use in having chains, but if you combine the ice underneath, then it's very difficult to get traction.

    I agree that chains are hard on the pavement, but they're what's needed when it comes to traction on the ice. This point then makes me wonder if getting chains is such a good idea after all and if I make the plunge, do they go on only when needed considering the damage that they can do? Hmmm....more trial and error, plus lots more reading. However, before I commit and spend the $350 CDN (estimated) on chains, perhaps a cheap ballast box wouldn't be such a bad idea. For $4.92 per bag, it's a good place to start.

    I appreciate everyone's comments.
    Gizmo2 likes this.

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    Tire chains: yes/ no?

    First if you need chains, you probably donít have a choice, nothing else will do.

    With proper ballast you minimize the chance of any damage to asphalt as a result of chains to almost zero. If the tires are griping they wonít dig or scratch anything.

    Also you need ballast either way. Weight doesnít eliminate the need for chains, and chains donít reduce the necessary ballast.
    Last edited by rydplrs; 03-25-2019 at 03:56 PM.

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