Connecting 2 1200 gal cisterns together
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    Connecting 2 1200 gal cisterns together

    I have 2 separate 1200 gal poly round cistern tanks that I would like to connect together with a 3 or 4 inch pvc pipe.

    There are bulkhead fittings at the bottom of the tanks that water goes out of, and there is a manway at the top of each tank that water goes into, but they fill at different rates and I would like to equate the levels with the aforementioned 3 or 4 inch pipe say 3/4 of the way up each tank tying the 2 tanks together.

    Since the tanks are round I don't think a bulkhead fitting would be good to use. I searched and heard pretty good things about "Uniseal's" that are supposed to work well on curved surfaces.

    Has anyone ever used a Uniseal type fitting and did you like it?

    In addition to tying the 2 tanks together I would possibly like to install a riser in the same pipe and make an overflow prevention pipe that goes up and then turns 90 degrees and goes outside.

    These cisterns are for drinking water and are located in a room slightly below grade.

    Any help or advice is appreciated!
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    Attached is a picture
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cisterns.jpg  
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    How big is the pipe that fills each tank? I would think that the pipe that equalizes them would not have to be any bigger than the biggest fill pipe. It would be nice if you could do something easy with flexible tubing. Maybe even a piece of high quality garden hose. Or a washing machine hookup hose. Those are tough.
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    The curve of the tank would imply to me that welding it is easiest method.i have not witnessed 3-4 inch being done,but I saw 2 inch get done on mine.they had bunches of sizes,12 being the biggest I saw.what the mfg did was put my two inch in a 10 amp router ,spun to 20k,pushed against the side of my tank and 3 seconds later it was attached.i asked if that is how the bigger stuff gets done,he said yes.predrill a slight smaller hole and he had a custom adapter for the dia to fit in a 1/2 collet of the ordinary wood router. standing close,to watch, wearing sandals,shorts and no shirt for some reason didn't seem like that bad of a idea,it was
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    They are 3 inch supply lines. The tanks do equate over time as they are "connected" at the bottom. Its just as they are being rapidly filled they don't equate and 1 always fills faster than the other (and it varies as to which one fills first, its very weird).

    I have some space in each corner of the room, maybe I can put an overflow line from near the top of each tank and feed another smaller tank (1 for each current cistern) into those tanks instead of just dumping the water outside. The amount they don't equate is maybe 150 to 200 gals at most, so if I had 2 overflow tanks of 200 gals each that would probably work. By then the tanker truck will probably be empty (which is what I want, take all the water from the truck and have the truck go empty before the tanks overflow. The reason for that is because the tanker truck will be about 150 to 200 ft away and I just want the driver to fill and forget about it and not walk into the cistern room and then have to run back to the truck to stop the flow from the truck before they overflow).

    So between the 2 current tanks, the 2 I add, the amount of water in say 200 ft of 3 inch line, that may drain the truck before any overflow occurs?
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    OK, my 2-cents for what it's worth.

    Is the run to each tank being fed by the tee's branch level, and the same length? It looks level in the photo; but is it really? Are your tank vents sized equally and unblocked?

    Instead of a level supply pipe I'd use 45-degree fittings to create a sloped supply to each tank. If 22.5-degree fittings are available, consider those too.

    I'd avoid cutting into those expensive tanks at all costs, especially since there aren't flat faces for bulkhead fittings where you want to put them. I've never heard of Uniseal tank fittings; but that doesn't mean they are good or bad in my book.
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    Rather than adding a new hole to your tank, why not use the existing drain pipe?

    Remove the existing supply piping back to where it's reduced. Add a T where it comes out of the tank, add a section of pipe with a valve (if you need to isolate one tank from the other) to a T over to the other tank. Continue from the T with a reduced line to your existing supply. The tanks will reach their own level in pretty short order.
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    I guess I am confused!! It looks like the two tanks are connected at the bottom by a connection pipe tee'd to each tank. If both tank valves are open at the bottom, the head pressure in each tank should force equalization in each tank if each tank is vented, which i do not see. Is each tank vented with a separate vent?
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    3 inch spin weld fittings. We use a router
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjncad View Post
    OK, my 2-cents for what it's worth.

    Is the run to each tank being fed by the tee's branch level, and the same length? It looks level in the photo; but is it really? Are your tank vents sized equally and unblocked?

    Instead of a level supply pipe I'd use 45-degree fittings to create a sloped supply to each tank. If 22.5-degree fittings are available, consider those too.

    I'd avoid cutting into those expensive tanks at all costs, especially since there aren't flat faces for bulkhead fittings where you want to put them. I've never heard of Uniseal tank fittings; but that doesn't mean they are good or bad in my book.
    The supply pipe coming in from the wall is sloped then the T and branch lines are perfectly level. There is no vent per se, but the manway has a large hole in it that the supply pipe ends just above, then the water "freeflows" into the hole in the manway. Maybe I will completely remove the manway cover all together (thus making a 16 inch diameter opening) from each cistern to allow air to escape easier.

    I agree, I absolutely would prefer to not have to cut into the tanks at all.
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