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  1. Top | #131
    ttazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sennister View Post
    Just put up my first workbench in the new garage.


    I had a small section of countertop left over from something so I mounted it to the wall. It is pretty small, maybe 2.5-3' long but it is a start.

    Most of the florescent fixtures came in on Friday and all the cans. Nothing needs to be done with the cans but the fixtures need to be rewired so I have been working on that this morning. I was thinking I had to replace the tombstone on one end with a non-shunted T8 tombstone and had opened up one of the boxes to go over what type of tombstone is in them now. They are the shunted ones so I was thinking well, I will have to replace them as expected. Then I looked at the cases of bulbs that I have.... Wait a minute that part number doesn't look like what I thought I was getting. Not much off but there was a DX2 I don't know what it means in the part number.

    I thought I ordered:

    KT-LED15T8-48GC-850-D

    They shipped:

    KT-LED15T8-48GC-850-DX2

    So, I pulled up google and looked them up to get the spec sheet from Keystone. Sweet it turns out that the DX2 means you have more flexibility in how you drive them. The ones I was going to order would have one end of the bulb that did nothing the pins were just there for support. That is why I needed non-shunted tombstones so that on the other end one pin would see load and other neutral. The DX2 bulbs must have some circuitry so that they can either be wired that way or send the load to one end of the bulb and neutral to the other going to either pin or both pins... Hmm, let's test it out. I keep a few replacement power cords for tools in my supplies so I ran out to the shop and grabbed one along with a few wire nuts and a stripper. I hacked it together and grabbed two bulbs. Plugged it in and they came on.

    So now all I have to do is go through all the fixtures and remove the mounting screw for the ballast, then cut and strip the wires. We are ready to mount them. However we still don't have power out there also need to wait until they insulate and sheetrock the ceiling. But hey, it is progress.


    really like the thought process's your going through...outstanding!!....just tossing in a couple of ideas that worked for me in my shop/garage ...for some of my work benches i watched craigslist and bought some stainless steel tables/work benches/sink-table,etc from closed restaurants and they have worked out well in combination with wood topped benches and were very reasonably priced.....i also installed cabinetry around walls above benches..since the cabinetry "shaded" the benches i recently installed bench led strip lighting under the cabinets for bench lighting and since i didn't have a bench light circuit i used a outlet and tied all the strips together and they have individual pull chains............would have been nice to have a conduit or light circuit available in the initial construction...also might want to consider if you ever want a shop sink and add some in wall plumbing....(in const pre counter pic)
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    Last edited by ttazzman; 08-04-2019 at 02:29 PM.
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  3. Top | #132
    sennister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttazzman View Post
    really like the thought process's your going through...outstanding!!....just tossing in a idea that worked for me in my shop ...for some of my work benches i watched craigslist and bought some stainless steel tables/work benches/sink-table,etc from closed restaurants and they have worked out well in combination with wood topped benches and were very reasonably priced
    Funny you should mention that. I have been keeping my eye out on some local auction sites for that very stuff. The sink that I want to add out there will be a stainless restaurant style that has either 2 or 3 tubs and the wings on the side for drying. I do home brewing and this will be part of my brew space so cleaning the kettles and kegs would be really easy with those large tubs and drying rack. I might go stainless for the table that I brew on but the risk there is I am doing electric brewing with stainless steel kettles (modified kegs) so there is that electrocution risk. Many people that do this will ground the table just for safety.

    These tubs and tables pop up from time to time but of course now that I am looking for them, they have either been ones that are new but heavily damaged in shipping or not the style I want like the corner ones.

    We have hot and cold water run to the shop for the sink. Also I am prepping for a pressure washer. One that can do hot water. You have to watch that because the cheap ones can't take hot water without damaging the seals.
    Last edited by sennister; 08-04-2019 at 03:16 PM.
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  4. Top | #133
    sennister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danselec07 View Post
    The keystone DX 2 is the way to go.
    I have used them a lot.
    I feel it is safer to have power on one end and the neutral on the other end of the lamp
    When I was going through their catalog I would have picked them but I must have missed that option. Even if a little more expensive it is worth it in ease of use and as mentioned easier to have the power on opposite ends.
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    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 48" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, 3pt Sprayer

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  6. Top | #134
    ttazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sennister View Post
    Funny you should mention that. I have been keeping my eye out on some local auction sites for that very stuff. The sink that I want to add out there will be a stainless restaurant style that has either 2 or 3 tubs and the wings on the side for drying. I do home brewing and this will be part of my brew space so cleaning the kettles and kegs would be really easy with those large tubs and drying rack. I might go stainless for the table that I brew on but the risk there is I am doing electric brewing with stainless steel kettles (modified kegs) so there is that electrocution risk. Many people that do this will ground the table just for safety.

    These tubs and tables pop up from time to time but of course now that I am looking for them, they have either been ones that are new but heavily damaged in shipping or not the style I want like the corner ones.

    We have hot and cold water run to the shop for the sink. Also I am prepping for a pressure washer. One that can do hot water. You have to watch that because the cheap ones can't take hot water without damaging the seals.

    100% right with you.....pic attached since you seemed intrested..... i ended up with a single sink unit with a knee drain....i like the "tub" aspect of the unit in that i could flood the whole table since the edges are raised all the way around....also like you i wanted a hookup for hot water for a pressure washer...i pull water from the sink faucet splitter for things like that...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190804_153657.jpg  
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  7. Top | #135
    sennister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttazzman View Post
    100% right with you.....pic attached since you seemed intrested..... i ended up with a single sink unit with a knee drain....i like the "tub" aspect of the unit in that i could flood the whole table since the edges are raised all the way around....also like you i wanted a hookup for hot water for a pressure washer...i pull water from the sink faucet splitter for things like that...
    Yep, that is what I have been keeping an eye out for. I also want to get one of those sprayers for the faucet. It makes it easier to wash out the big pots. My preference is a 2 sink version so I can have one for soap and one for rinsing. The three tubs seem more common because of the soap, sanitize and rinse needs in a commercial kitchen but the sacrifice is smaller tubs. All I can do is keep an eye out.
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    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 48" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, 3pt Sprayer

  8. Top | #136
    sennister's Avatar
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    This would be my ideal sink.

    Advance Tabco FC-2-1818-18RL Two Compartment Stainless Steel Commercial Sink with Two Drainboards - 72" with 18" X 24" Drainboard

    With this type of faucet.

    Regency 1.42 GPM Chrome-Plated Wall-Mounted Pre-Rinse Faucet with 8" Centers

    Talking about this again made me want to look again. Looks like there was one that sold recently in my area for $220. I have been halfway keeping an eye out for it. We won't need it anytime soon and I don't want to store it too bad in another building at the moment. (I say that so that the perfect one pops up) Also I don't want to start putting too much stuff in there yet. It will be in the way right now for construction. We also want to do epoxy floors. Everything will need to come out for that.

    As for cabinets. I think I mentioned before that I want to make a bunch. For instance the overhead but as well some tall, though not necessarily floor to ceiling. I do plan on putting some outlets up high as well for under cabinet lighting and such. My plan is to practice building the cabinets for the garage. Then the ones for the laundry room. Once that is done on to kitchen.
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    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 48" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, 3pt Sprayer

  9. Top | #137
    sennister's Avatar
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    Hmm no updates for 10 days.. I should probably should post something new on this. Of course that would mean that I would need some more photos. I'll try and take some tonight.

    They have been knocking out a lot of the electrical. Still no power to my other buildings though. They installed plywood on the interior walls of the mechanical room so there is something to mount the in-floor heat system to (boiler, manifold, pumps and such). Also the electrical panel will have a home. It sucks not having an electrical panel yet because they really don't know how long to make the wire runs because it will be somewhere in that room. If the panel was there they could run them and not have so much waste. Oh well. The stairs are built going from the garage to the mud/laundry room. So, now we can actually get in and out of the house a little easier.

    For wiring here is what we have been burning through. I do expect to have some left over. Probably not a lot though.

    1000' 12/2
    750' 14/2
    250' 14/3

    All outlets will be a min of 20A so we are going through a ton of that. Lights will be all linked with 14/2 and there will be one 4 way circuit for half the lights and the other half on a three way. I was going to do both 4 way but where I wanted the box I only had room for a double box or a triple sideways which I didn't like. I really didn't need both sets of light switches there so I am going to just have the normal internal lights and the soffit lights in that box.

    All fan boxes also get 14/3 even though the fan(s) I picked out don't need the 3rd wire, I am running it because who knows if they will ever get replaced and if they do what they will need. I would rather have a wire that never gets used than be short a wire in a couple years.

    All boxes for outlets are double boxes. I was going to just put a single outlet in many of them but then I ran the numbers. For materials it was about $2 for a duplex receptacle. However for a plate that is blank on one side a duplex on the other it was $2.50 or a two gang double duplex receptacle plate it was $0.50. I don't remember down to the penny but it was actually $0.06 more expensive to put one double receptacle in a box that two because the plates are so much more expensive. Well talking pennies on a project so it really doesn't matter but you know, kind of crazy.

    We ended up putting up 18 recessed cans. 10 are in soffit lights (5 front and 5 back) the remaining 8 are in the mud/laundry room. There will be two ceiling fans in that space.

    The garage is set up for 3 ceiling fans but I bought three 62" fans. I am going to take them back and get one 72". I am a little concerned about storage access and for the savings of one fan vs 3 will buy some of those shop fans that I can place where I want it. That might be more effective. Still putting up all 3 fan boxes since they are under the floor of the storage area and it would be too hard to go back and do later so I can always add additional fans anytime.

    I got home yesterday and there were a few more pallets laying around that were not there before. Hmm, more siding showed up. I called the siding contractor (Sales guy). He said yeah I supposedly knew they were starting on my siding Tuesday (today) oh wait no Wednesday. No... I know I told you we were ready but have been waiting to hear more. He said yes Wednesday and gave me the foreman's number. No answer yesterday so I called back this morning. He said they are wrapping up a job today and should be out tomorrow to start demo of the old siding and installing new soffits. They are wrapping the entire house and should be working through the week. Things will really start to look different with that done on the outside. Crap that means a late night for me tonight as I have some last minute things.
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    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 48" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, 3pt Sprayer

  10. Top | #138

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    New Garage Build

    Nice build, jealous!. Question, you mentioned running zwave and some other automation but also indicated a lot of 14/2 wire. Zwave/zigbee wired switches typically require a neutral so how are you getting around that? Or is the 250’ of 14/3 used for those runs? Just dealing with this in my unfinished but 14/2 wired detached garage (previous owner) and was thinking I may have to rerun everything

  11. Top | #139
    sennister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by t300 View Post
    Nice build, jealous!. Question, you mentioned running zwave and some other automation but also indicated a lot of 14/2 wire. Zwave/zigbee wired switches typically require a neutral so how are you getting around that? Or is the 250’ of 14/3 used for those runs? Just dealing with this in my unfinished but 14/2 wired detached garage (previous owner) and was thinking I may have to rerun everything
    Thanks,

    14/3 for those runs. That will power and link all my switches and then 14/2 to the lights.

    [FAQ] GE 3-Way Wiring - FAQ - SmartThings Community

    I was lucky with the house. Everything is in greenfield conduit. So I was able to pull new wires when needed.

    I was kind of shocked at how much 14/2 we are going through.

    As mentioned 14/3 also going to fan boxes even though not needed. The fans I bought can use 14/2 but I wanted the extra wire.
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    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 48" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, 3pt Sprayer

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  13. Top | #140
    sennister's Avatar
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    Took some more photos and added some more bits for the Home (garage) Automation.

    They have the plywood up in the mechanical room as mentioned. They also made a ceiling in there. Rather than being 10.5' like the garage they lowered it to 7' I think. I didn't measure it. At least I will be able to reach the light bulb should it burn out. It would be tight to try and get a ladder in there. They also built the steps going into the mud room. It will need a railing but we are going with stake side mount for that so I can pull the railing when bringing large items into the laundry room. Things like the washer, dryer, fridge and keggerator.



    The manifold for the main zone (garage floor) is installed.



    For the home (garage) automation stuff, I installed door sensors in the two access doors. I will add another one in the door for going into the mud room from the garage but that door isn't mounted yet. These sensors will at a minimum be used to notify us when a door is left open. For instance late at night or more commonly when the temp difference is greater than 10F and the kids leave a door wide open, I will be able to blast across all Google Home Minis and Hubs to shut ____ door. I will also be able to sense if a door is closed and then via Z Wave lock the door if closed but left unlocked. The other possibility that I want to think about is setting a rule that if it is dark outside and the door opens, it turns on the garage lights. I have to think about the logic behind that one. I need to account for working out there. I don't want to mess with motion sensors. That is the easy route but how often do you sit there working on something but not move enough to trip a motion sensor. Then you have to wave your arms all the time trying to get the lights to come back on. However I can see where it would be nice for the lights to come on automatically if you are coming in with your arms full of stuff. Like I said, I will have to think about the logic behind that one.

    This is what the sensors look like.



    Wire that will be run back to where the main panel will be located.



    To install I figured out where roughly the middle of the door would fall in the door frame, then drilled a hole up through the door frame and through the board that frames the door opening. Then I closed the door and used a transfer punch to mark the door where the hole needs to be drilled to mount the magnet.



    Not sure why this photo is upside down... Hole for magnet.



    Grr focus was like crap in this photo but here is the magnet installed.



    Finally the sensor was installed. The leads will be run between the door frame and rough opening so that should a sensor fail, I will be able to just pull the door trim and get to the wiring and splice in a new one.



    When I mounted the first one I did a lot more marking because I hadn't thought of just using a transfer punch yet. So, all those pencil marks were not needed. The second install was much quicker and cleaner.
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    JD Z950R 60" Deck with DFS Collection System

    JD X585, 54C deck,
    CTC Model X4750 F.E.L - Modified Imp Pressure Relief from 900 to 1175PSI, Power Flow and MC519 cart, 54-inch Quick-Hitch Front Blade, 47-inch Quick-Hitch Snow Blower, 3-pt hitch, HF Quick Hitch, Heavy Hitch, 48" box blade/rear blade, Dethacher, 3pt Sprayer

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