Help with cooling attached garage
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 33

Thread: Help with cooling attached garage

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Last Online
    10-20-2019 @ 07:55 PM
    Location
    Dayton, MD
    Posts
    716
    Thanks
    39
    Thanked 105 Times in 62 Posts

    Help with cooling attached garage

    When the house was built, I opted to insulate my attached garage. It paid off during the winter. With no climate control, the space stayed well above freezing. But during the summer it is kicking my butt. I don't like leaving the doors open since it invites insects and debris in to work their way into the house. I have come out in the morning to find the garage still holding 90+ degrees when the outside temps are down around 70.

    There are windows on the one end of the garage (it is a side entry garage, so the windows are on the "front" of the house/garage elevation). I also have a pull down attic access and have played around with leaving that open to allow heat to rise up through natural convection. I have tried only opening the windows (and attic access) after the sun goes down to try to flow the cooler air through. I have tried leaving them all open all of the time.

    My 2 main concerns with the heat in the garage are:

    1- Heat load against the house. Although the walls between the garage are well insulated, it is clearly counterproductive to have a hot box attached to an air conditioned house.
    2- I have our spare fridge/freezer in the garage and store other dry goods out there. Keeping these items at 85-100 degrees all summer is not a good idea.

    My secondary concern is that I do occasionally get to work on a project in the garage. Right now, I grab tools and run outside where it is cooler (day or night).

    And yes, this is a small issue. But I have seen you all offer some very good input to other trivial topics so I thought I would see what you think.

    Thanks,

    Lee
    2305, 200CX loader w/53" bucket, 62C MMM, and 47 SB.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    canadian kook's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    02-15-2016 @ 04:04 AM
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    153
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by ljnelson109 View Post
    When the house was built, I opted to insulate my attached garage. It paid off during the winter. With no climate control, the space stayed well above freezing. But during the summer it is kicking my butt. I don't like leaving the doors open since it invites insects and debris in to work their way into the house. I have come out in the morning to find the garage still holding 90+ degrees when the outside temps are down around 70.

    There are windows on the one end of the garage (it is a side entry garage, so the windows are on the "front" of the house/garage elevation). I also have a pull down attic access and have played around with leaving that open to allow heat to rise up through natural convection. I have tried only opening the windows (and attic access) after the sun goes down to try to flow the cooler air through. I have tried leaving them all open all of the time.

    My 2 main concerns with the heat in the garage are:

    1- Heat load against the house. Although the walls between the garage are well insulated, it is clearly counterproductive to have a hot box attached to an air conditioned house.
    2- I have our spare fridge/freezer in the garage and store other dry goods out there. Keeping these items at 85-100 degrees all summer is not a good idea.

    My secondary concern is that I do occasionally get to work on a project in the garage. Right now, I grab tools and run outside where it is cooler (day or night).

    And yes, this is a small issue. But I have seen you all offer some very good input to other trivial topics so I thought I would see what you think.

    Thanks,

    Lee
    Try a mini split heat pump,heat in the winter air con in the summer very well suited for your climate as it works off the outside inside heat curve differential.And they are ductless and cheep and easy to install.

  4. Top | #3
    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 04:45 PM
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    34,756
    Thanks
    5,931
    Thanked 4,056 Times in 2,999 Posts
    A Whole House Fan, installed in the garage. Easy, cheap and really effective.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Last Online
    10-20-2019 @ 07:55 PM
    Location
    Dayton, MD
    Posts
    716
    Thanks
    39
    Thanked 105 Times in 62 Posts
    Canadian Kook - I would love the heat pump option. But I forgot to mention how cheap I am. Initial investment is one thing, paying to run it is another challenge!

    Gizmo- I was wondering about a whole house fan. I have to do some learning on that. Where would it vent to? I assume I put in the ceiling of the garage, but how does it vent outside? I was also considering an attic fan in the garage attic. But honestly, I don't want to look at it on the front view of the house. The garage attic has ridge and soffit vent but nothing forced at this moment.
    2305, 200CX loader w/53" bucket, 62C MMM, and 47 SB.

  7. Top | #5
    636mullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Last Online
    05-14-2019 @ 08:05 AM
    Location
    Council Bluffs, IA
    Posts
    1,626
    Thanks
    127
    Thanked 188 Times in 170 Posts
    It's my understanding that the whole house fan forces the "hot" air into the attic and the air escapes through the roof and soffit vents. I've also thought about an attic fan as a way to cool the attic of our house after the heat of the day has gone.

    I'm also very interested in this topic as I have the same issue with my garage. In the winter we have a 220 heater that keeps things in the mid to upper 40's when we just park there, but can easily heat it to 70 in an hour or so. As for cooling I've looked at an A/C unit and also various shop cooling methods. A "swamp" cooler being one. In a completely neck fashion I took an old garden hose and added it to a box fan in an effort to see what kind of difference a red neck mister would make. It did help, but also made things around it damp. Not really that safe either. With our high humidity it also looses some of it's effectiveness. With 2 box fans and the doors open it wasn't bad in there. Once the doors closed and the fans were turned off it got hot quickly....

    -636

  8. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Last Online
    10-20-2019 @ 07:55 PM
    Location
    Dayton, MD
    Posts
    716
    Thanks
    39
    Thanked 105 Times in 62 Posts
    I definitely like the idea of something that is thermostatically controlled. I would have to find a small one due to the limited amount of ridge and soffit vents as part of the area over the garage is actually living space. Doing a quick search, they seem to start in the $200-$300 range plus the price of the vent cover (louvers) for the ceiling.

    Definitely has my gears turning.
    2305, 200CX loader w/53" bucket, 62C MMM, and 47 SB.

  9. Top | #7
    canadian kook's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    02-15-2016 @ 04:04 AM
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    153
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by ljnelson109 View Post
    I definitely like the idea of something that is thermostatically controlled. I would have to find a small one due to the limited amount of ridge and soffit vents as part of the area over the garage is actually living space. Doing a quick search, they seem to start in the $200-$300 range plus the price of the vent cover (louvers) for the ceiling.

    Definitely has my gears turning.
    To remove heat is easy simply try an over size cfm bathroom fan and duct it to the attic and out ...insall the bathroom fan at floor level to recover heat also install one at ceiling level off an other switch and vent it to floor level.Cheap Cheap

  10. Top | #8
    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:50 PM
    Location
    Westminster, MD
    Posts
    16,569
    Thanks
    5,136
    Thanked 4,132 Times in 2,575 Posts
    Jason (dieselshadow) just installed a mini-split in his garage, maybe he can advise on how much it cost's to run...
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
    FEL, MMM, Artillian 42" Forks and Modular Grapple, I-Match, Ballast Box, and lots of other STUFF.
    -John Deere 455 w/60" MMM


    Bolt on Grab Hooks and other cool stuff are now for sale!!

    Visit our YouTube Channel

    My Equipment:
    John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab, 300cx FEL, 366 Front Blade, 59" Front Snowblower, Ballast Box
    Artillian 3K Forks, Grapple, Front-Hoe Bucket
    John Deere 455, 60" MMM

  11. Top | #9
    Sawdust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:04 PM
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    729
    Thanks
    33
    Thanked 99 Times in 59 Posts
    Have you even seen the screen doors for your garage door? Let in lots of air and keep the bugs out. Depending on your area could even leave it open all night.

  12. Top | #10
    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:29 PM
    Location
    Joelton TN
    Posts
    19,991
    Thanks
    1,069
    Thanked 4,340 Times in 2,610 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    Jason (dieselshadow) just installed a mini-split in his garage, maybe he can advise on how much it cost's to run...
    Here's a link to the install thread over on Workshop Addict. So far it's close to about $10 a month to keep my garage at a constant 70. I don't turn it off. It's too efficient to not use it 24/7. My master suite which is above my garage is noticeably more comfortable as well. A bit more expensive up front, but well worth it. My garage is very comfortable to work in now. Both the indoor and outdoor units are super quiet. I highly recommend it.
    - Jason

    GreenTractorTalk.com Rules, Policies, and Terms of Use

    Subscribe to dieselshadowman on YouTube

    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
    1954 60 - getting full restoration, 1964
    110 round fender in the shop for crustoration
    Ferris IS3200Zzero turn mower

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Dieselshadow is my Hero.


  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. My 30 x 40 tractor garage
    By eepete in forum Barns & Buildings
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 08-07-2013, 02:05 PM
  2. 5625 A/C, Measuring Cooling Performance
    By Burger Steak & Eggs in forum Utility Tractors
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-14-2012, 07:06 PM
  3. Landscaping around my 30 x 40 tractor garage
    By eepete in forum Barns & Buildings
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 06-27-2012, 12:36 PM
  4. How NOT to Wire a Garage Door Opener
    By mjncad in forum Home & Workshop Projects
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-03-2011, 09:21 PM
  5. Garage/Shop Build
    By Spudland_Dave in forum Barns & Buildings
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-27-2010, 01:56 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •