Hydraulic connector sizes (lengths)?
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Thread: Hydraulic connector sizes (lengths)?

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    Grizzler's Avatar
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    Hydraulic connector sizes (lengths)?

    OK. I’ll admit it - last winter I broke the hydraulic hoses clean off my snow blade by backing up a little too far without disconnecting them.

    The hoses on the blade AND the loader were replaced by the dealer, and today for the first time I needed to hook up and plow snow. But there is no way in heck I could connect them to each other. First of all, I noticed the dust caps on the male ends on the blade hoses were jammed on very tightly, and hard to remove - had to use a channel-lock to twist them off.

    I made sure to decompress the hydraulic oil by moving the joystick around (engine off), and pressing in the male and female connectors to bleed a little oil from both sets of tubing. The connector male ends will go into females, but only in so far and will not “lock in place”.

    So... is it possible they are the right diameter but the wrong length? Is that possible?

    I wrote down the following inscribed on the edges of the connectors:

    Blade “Faster NV 12 - 12SAEM - 01G”


    Loader “Faster 3CNV08 F12DE”

    Acreage newbie on 120 acres of rolling Alberta prairie.
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    You need to look at the ends. Some of the connectors have nipples, some are flat faced, and there are probably other types as well but those are the ones I have seen. So you need to have a matching male and female connector or it doesn't work. There is thread in the hydraulics section, I think, that talks about them. That could be your problem. If they were the wrong size, it would be pretty obvious, at least to me.

    Sometimes the hoses for my grapple do not cooperate but it is a matter of the fluid refusing to let the hose hook up even after dumping pressure. That could also be the case here. You may want to crack open a line just to be sure all the pressure is relieved.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69project View Post
    Sometimes the hoses for my grapple do not cooperate but it is a matter of the fluid refusing to let the hose hook up even after dumping pressure. That could also be the case here. You may want to crack open a line just to be sure all the pressure is relieved.
    If I read corrected the OP indicated he already tried bleeding some fluid from both connectors.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grizzler View Post
    OK. I’ll admit it - last winter I broke the hydraulic hoses clean off my snow blade by backing up a little too far without disconnecting them.

    The hoses on the blade AND the loader were replaced by the dealer, and today for the first time I needed to hook up and plow snow. But there is no way in heck I could connect them to each other. First of all, I noticed the dust caps on the male ends on the blade hoses were jammed on very tightly, and hard to remove - had to use a channel-lock to twist them off.

    I made sure to decompress the hydraulic oil by moving the joystick around (engine off), and pressing in the male and female connectors to bleed a little oil from both sets of tubing. The connector male ends will go into females, but only in so far and will not “lock in place”.

    So... is it possible they are the right diameter but the wrong length? Is that possible?

    I wrote down the following inscribed on the edges of the connectors:

    Blade “Faster NV 12 - 12SAEM - 01G”

    This is an ISO 7241 "A" style coupler, 1/2" body, SAE threads.
    Faster | NV | Standard couplings with poppet valve. Faster interchangeability (except size 12,5)


    Loader “Faster 3CNV08 F12DE”

    This also appears to be ISO 7241 "A", I'd guess I/2" body size from the "08" in the part number.
    http://www.fastercouplings.com/product-detail/3cnv-82

    Look UP^^^

    So in theory they "should" connect, but they are different series. (NV and 3CNV).
    I would take one each, and your dust caps and go visit the dealer.
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    Kenny

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    Thanks guys,

    Next stupid question: if I take off a couple of connectors (to show the dealer), how fast does the oil leak out while I’m putting on a replacement (or how much can I expect to lose)?
    Acreage newbie on 120 acres of rolling Alberta prairie.
    5065E "Bullfrog" Cab, FEL, snowplow, bale spears, quick-hitch, bucket, 72" Piranha toothbar, pallet forks
    1025R "Tadpole" FEL, MMM, iMatch, tiller, rake, ballast box, backhoe (+BXpanded goodies), roughcutter, land plane, Kenny's Bolt-On hooks/diff-lock pedal/ext iMatch hook, Piranha tooth bar, Psrumor's better seat springs, Artillian forks/front-hoe/front i-Match, LED lights, RIO disable, fire extinguisher, Heavy Hitch
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    With no pressure in lines, should be able to keep it above the cylinder to keep it from leaking out with no fitting on end.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbear View Post
    With no pressure in lines, should be able to keep it above the cylinder to keep it from leaking out with no fitting on end.
    Should work. However, every time I try a shortcut maneuver with hydraulic fluid I end up with a big mess.

    My advice is to find yourself a clean container and stick the hose(s) down in it once you remove the fitting. Whatever leaks out you can just pour back in. :-)
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbear View Post
    With no pressure in lines, should be able to keep it above the cylinder to keep it from leaking out with no fitting on end.
    So I had to replace one of my fittings yesterday. First bleed the pressure, which it seems like you have, then just keep the hose pointed up so it doesn't run out. The fluid is just going to see the lowest level it can. Your fluid loss will be minimal so long as you keep the tractor shut off.
    3025e, D160 loader, Artillian Grapple, Forks, Hoe Bucket, Frontier Land Plane, Rotomec PDH300, Redline Systems 54 inch rock bucket, Heavy Hitch
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    If I read corrected the OP indicated he already tried bleeding some fluid from both connectors.
    Yup, I read that too, however in my experience even after dumping the pressure at the joy stick/3rd function valve I have had some residual pressure that made it a real PIA to hook up a connection so I have had to break open a line before.

    Why that happened, I am not sure, but my theory is the only way to remove pressure from the 3rd function valve is to have electrical power to it and if you just turn the tractor to run and hit the button it doesn't dump the pressure sometimes so then you have to start the tractor which pressurizes the system again and start over. This may or may not be the case here, it just what I experienced with my grapple quick connects before.

    There also might be a piece of trash in the connectors as well. I have found that sometimes a quick squirt of WD-40 cleans out dirt and debris in there and makes it much easier to hook up. I am sure someone on here will object to the use of WD-40 (they have before) but it is what I have handy and it works. Carb, brake cleaner, liquid wrench, PB Blaster will do the same thing because the object is too use some sort of petroleum based spray to clean it out. I have never researched to see if there some sort specific cleaner to use on hydraulic quick connects. The last thing you want to use is water since that is the enemy of hydraulic fluid.
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    WD40 works great for cleaning out QDs, it’s just terrible as a lubricant / penetrant
    balrog006 and buckteeth445 like this.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
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