Best way to add SCV for hydraulic top link?
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Thread: Best way to add SCV for hydraulic top link?

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    Best way to add SCV for hydraulic top link?

    Now that I have a box blade I'd like to get a hydraulic top link for my 2520. I'm pretty sure I can figure out how to buy an appropriate cylinder, fittings, and hoses for it, but the tractor doesn't have a 3rd SCV so that's obviously the sticking point. My guess is that there is a Deere kit for adding one and it probably costs $500 or more. Are there other options out there that are more economical? Anyone have pointers to good threads on the topic? I may as well consider hydraulic tilt too...

    Thanks,
    Rob
    2016 x758 w/60" HC mower, 54" snowblower, MC519 bagger
    2010 2520 w/61" H130 loader, TA 42" forks, KK 60" Pro tiller, iMatch quick hitch, KK middle buster
    1996 345 - Traded
    Other toys: Stihl BR600 backpack blower; McCulloch chainsaws: 10-10S, 700, 805, 10-10; JD trimmer

    2520:__________________________x758:__________________________Faithful 345:___________________

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    Jamone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlue View Post
    Now that I have a box blade I'd like to get a hydraulic top link for my 2520. I'm pretty sure I can figure out how to buy an appropriate cylinder, fittings, and hoses for it, but the tractor doesn't have a 3rd SCV so that's obviously the sticking point. My guess is that there is a Deere kit for adding one and it probably costs $500 or more. Are there other options out there that are more economical? Anyone have pointers to good threads on the topic? I may as well consider hydraulic tilt too...

    Thanks,
    Rob
    I'm not sure for the older models, but with the current 1-3 series the parts from Deere cost around $800-1000.

    Do you have a mid SCV for a loader? Would you be ok with that not being operable while you are using the rear SCV? If so the cheapest route is getting a set of long hoses that you can plug into the mid SCV and route that to the rear. I know I've heard of others doing such things around here.

    Most of the third party diverter kits that would do this but allow you to toggle it from in the seat cost just as much as getting true rear SCVs, so I don't think that would be worth it.


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    jgayman's Avatar
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    The 3rd SCV kit for the Gen-1 2-series is:

    Part Number: BLV10731
    Part Price: 1,178.10 USD
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Ouch. Guess I'm for sure not going to go with Deere's parts. Don't need it that bad.

    The idea to use long hoses and steal the loader circuits could certainly work. Guess it would depend on whether I was spreading new gravel on the driveway or just doing remediation.

    Thanks,
    Rob
    2016 x758 w/60" HC mower, 54" snowblower, MC519 bagger
    2010 2520 w/61" H130 loader, TA 42" forks, KK 60" Pro tiller, iMatch quick hitch, KK middle buster
    1996 345 - Traded
    Other toys: Stihl BR600 backpack blower; McCulloch chainsaws: 10-10S, 700, 805, 10-10; JD trimmer

    2520:__________________________x758:__________________________Faithful 345:___________________

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    There are quite a few threads in the Hydraulic forum, here is one that covers everything. You can source your own valve and fittings...

    Installing a rear 3 spool SCV valve on a 2720

    The 2320, 2520, 2720, and older 2032 are all identical in this regard. There are some good threads on the TBN forum too. You can get it done for about ~ $500



    FYI, I'm moving this to the Hydraulic forum.
    Kenny

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    You might consider a Fasse valve. I have installed several of these on smaller tractors at the dealership. One of the top selling points is that they can be removed in a few minutes if trading tractors, etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy Cravens View Post
    You might consider a Fasse valve. I have installed several of these on smaller tractors at the dealership. One of the top selling points is that they can be removed in a few minutes if trading tractors, etc.
    Thanks. I took a quick look but haven't had time to fully investigate. Looks like this is a way to convert one SCV circuit to two with an electronic switch? So with that I could flip a switch and change the normal loader control joystick to control another circuit on the top link? Without confirming application or sizing it appears these go for about $500 for a unit. I suppose I'd need two if I wanted top link and tilt cylinders.

    Thanks for the pointer.

    Rob
    2016 x758 w/60" HC mower, 54" snowblower, MC519 bagger
    2010 2520 w/61" H130 loader, TA 42" forks, KK 60" Pro tiller, iMatch quick hitch, KK middle buster
    1996 345 - Traded
    Other toys: Stihl BR600 backpack blower; McCulloch chainsaws: 10-10S, 700, 805, 10-10; JD trimmer

    2520:__________________________x758:__________________________Faithful 345:___________________

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