I’ve never posted about hydraulics but I have a question
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    Iron horse's Avatar
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    I’ve never posted about hydraulics but I have a question

    It’s a older 2950, just got the AC going and started putting it to work since buying it. The hydraulics aren’t weak but here are my problems. Slow front end loader, everything bleeds down fast. Front loader goes down while driving it. The pull shredder with one hydraulic line, well the shredder bleeds down as well. I know what most would say or I think. Change filter, clean screen and put new fluid. The fluid in it is really clean, no water in it. I don’t know if the last owner did a filter or cleaned the screen. Not really even sure about anything on this tractors system. If I run high RPMs it seems to help but i do believe it should be a lot better then it currently is.

    I own a 5055, it had water in it around 300hrs and nothing worked, like it had air in the system, changed filter cleaned screen and put JD fluid in it and it’s perfect... that’s about all I’ve ever down with hydraulics.

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    Iron horse's Avatar
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    It’s a older 2950, just got the AC going and started putting it to work since buying it. The hydraulics aren’t weak but here are my problems. Slow front end loader, everything bleeds down fast. Front loader goes down while driving it. The pull shredder with one hydraulic line, well the shredder bleeds down as well. I know what most would say or I think. Change filter, clean screen and put new fluid. The fluid in it is really clean, no water in it. I don’t know if the last owner did a filter or cleaned the screen. Not really even sure about anything on this tractors system. If I run high RPMs it seems to help but i do believe it should be a lot better then it currently is. Last owner did say he changed the fluids in the machine. Like I mentioned it is all clean. No water

    I also own a 5055, it had water in it around 300hrs and nothing worked, like it had air in the system, changed filter cleaned screen and put JD fluid in it and it’s perfect... that’s about all I’ve ever down with hydraulics.

    I forgot to mention just turning the front wheels make a noise and seems to draw the system down (under a load feeling) unless at a higher rpm.
    Last edited by Iron horse; 06-18-2019 at 10:27 PM.

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    Before you go changing fluids, do the hydraulic lines for your loader have quick connects? If the do, raise your loader, shut the machine down and disconnect the lines. If the loader still drops your loader's cylinders are leaking internally. They'd need to be rebuilt or replaced. If the loader stays up your issues are elsewhere and you'd need to start working your way through the system.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimR View Post
    Before you go changing fluids, do the hydraulic lines for your loader have quick connects? If the do, raise your loader, shut the machine down and disconnect the lines. If the loader still drops your loader's cylinders are leaking internally. They'd need to be rebuilt or replaced. If the loader stays up your issues are elsewhere and you'd need to start working your way through the system.
    To the OP...if you do this, make sure you can get a floor jack under it (or similar) to take the pressure off when you are done with your experiment, or you will be swearing trying to get the quick connects hooked up again

    One other thing, and this is hard for many people to visualize, but it is important...
    The boom cylinders CANíT leak down with the quick connects disconnected, even if the seals are bad.
    The rod can not retract into the cylinder because the fluid had no where to go. You could completely remove the internal seals, and it still wouldnít leak down. You canít get away from the fact that the rod has to displace oil to retract.

    If you disconnected the quick connects AND cracked open the rod end fitting and oil starts pouring out while the boom drops, that would prove you have leaking cylinder seals.
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    Iron horse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arlen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by JimR View Post
    Before you go changing fluids, do the hydraulic lines for your loader have quick connects? If the do, raise your loader, shut the machine down and disconnect the lines. If the loader still drops your loader's cylinders are leaking internally. They'd need to be rebuilt or replaced. If the loader stays up your issues are elsewhere and you'd need to start working your way through the system.
    To the OP...if you do this, make sure you can get a floor jack under it (or similar) to take the pressure off when you are done with your experiment, or you will be swearing trying to get the quick connects hooked up again[IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif[/IMG]

    One other thing, and this is hard for many people to visualize, but it is important...
    The boom cylinders CAN’T leak down with the quick connects disconnected, even if the seals are bad.
    The rod can not retract into the cylinder because the fluid had no where to go. You could completely remove the internal seals, and it still wouldn’t leak down. You can’t get away from the fact that the rod has to displace oil to retract.

    If you disconnected the quick connects AND cracked open the rod end fitting and oil starts pouring out while the boom drops, that would prove you have leaking cylinder seals.
    No that’s easy to visualize and makes sense on the front hydraulics. I was also thinking about the rear hydraulics on the shredder. Why they stay up longer when the tractor is at a higher rpm and not at a low. When I say they drop fast I mean fast. You have to bump it up every couple minutes to keep it from dragging on the ground. With the other tractor this would happen sometimes but not nearly as often. I used that shredder maybe 2 months ago on the 2015 deere.

    Also the hydraulic pump on the 2950 really does draw down the motor if you are below 1000 rpm and just lift the loader at neutral.... expect more but I will try what y’all say with that the loader and see, I don’t want to change fluid because what’s in it looks really clean. Seems like atleast one of the cylinders would be good and keep the loader up Without Bucket weight and just small forks. 4 separate hydraulic quick disconnect lines for the loader. I would just think the chances of both being bad would be pretty crappy. No leaking on outside. One appears to have been rebuilt at one time or another the cylinder seal is cleaner then the other ones. These are the main 2 cylinders that lift the loader up.

    Oh and I forgot to mention just turning the wheels seems to stress the motor. I’d compare it to a weak power steering pump sorta feel on a vehicle. Does this unless I’m at a higher rpm then it’s better.

    On the newer 2015 deer I have the loader will go down if it’s just sitting off with the loader up... but never when the machine is running.
    Last edited by Iron horse; 06-18-2019 at 10:49 PM.
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    More than likely 1 or more of the 4 poppet valves in the factory SCV's is leaking. You could get a 5000# gauge then put a short hose & male coupler on gauge then plug into rear breakaway coupler with engine idling activate lever correct direction to pressurize gauge to determine if SCV is leaking internally. Stand-by pressure should be 2250 but can be set to 2350 psi to help loader speed of operation.

    DITTO what arlen stated that leaking piston seals on boom cylinders will not cause FEL boom to settle.
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    Read my reply to your other similar question. I think you have 1 or more leaking poppet valves in tractor SCV

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    Zebrafive's Avatar
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    I'll agree, leaking valves, or some internal leak bleeding off pressure.
    I can leave the loader up on my 2030 and come back a week later and it will still be up. But I normally lower it to the ground when not in use.
    But my 3pt hitch will quickly lower (if it has something attached) as soon as I shut off the tractor For my use, I can live with it. I think it involves removing the rockshaft cover and rebuilding an internal valve to fix right.
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    Iron horse's Avatar
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    Ok... well sorta sounds like I should just leave it alone or get a specialist to look into it. I’ve noticed something else since using it in the field. I saw it missing on my tractor and was hoping that maybe it just didn’t have one. Then I went into some old pictures and I saw the lever on a tractor I looked at before I purchased my 2950 a 3155.... would someone please tell me i can still get by with a round hay Bailer without it.... I believe it takes 4 ports to operate a baler and im only seeing 2 levers on my tractor, sorta feel stupid for buying the tractor now with the problems I have but it is almost 40 years old. The way I’m seeing I’ve only got 2 levers for 4 ports 🏻 But then again 1 lever on my 2015 operates 2 ports. Here is a picture of the one I’m missing circled in yellow. In this picture I’m also seeing a knob circled in red that I’m missing. The 2950 and 3155 are 2 different tractors with the same interior... maybe nothing is wrong. I’m hoping it’s not. I plan on getting a baler next year and making it work on the 2950
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 5E41C13F-F817-4F0E-AF45-34F1A2146697_1560958548565.jpeg

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    Lever encircled in yellow is to control a 3rd scv which probably scv has been removed. Some rd hay balers only require 1 scv with 1 set of rear breakaway couplers. I need to do some research to ID red knob in red circle but my 1st guess is knob shifts into creeper gear..
    Last edited by Tx Jim; 06-19-2019 at 11:57 AM.
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