H2 in my 69 140
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Thread: H2 in my 69 140

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    H2 in my 69 140

    So I'm adding H2 to my 140, because honestly H3 is a bit overkill and H1 is pretty much useless for my types of work. I have an H2 valve from a 300 but not the front lines. I know the frames are similar and that one hole needs to be drilled to mount the valve. I am going to use the inside and middle H3 handles to make the look authentic. BUT, I have a problem with the lines.

    The H2 valve return line is in the same spot as on the H1 valve, but the pressure line is in a different spot. The pressure line on the H2 valve is on the top of the valve (when its in the tractor) and the H1 valve has it on the back of the valve. What kind of flexible hydraulic hose should I use? I don't want the line to blow apart or leak, and I only need about a foot and a half. I might actually need 2 lines, depending on the valve configuration.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails John-Deere-312-314-140-120-H1-Hydraulic.jpg   John-Deere-300-316-317-Lawn-Tractor-H2.jpg  
    Last edited by Mudrig150; 08-23-2019 at 12:21 PM.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    flyweight's Avatar
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    Find a quality hose shop that handles Parker brand No-Skive, Abrasion Resistant hose(451ST). It's good for 3000 psi. They should have a good selection of fittings to serve your needs.

    If you'd rather install steel lines, some(not all) hydraulic shops will make up a custom steel line for you.
    keane likes this.
    Michael

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    Also have a bunch of other useless stuff.










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    Mudrig, After bouncing back & forth between the 140 and the 300 JD parts catalog, I got quite confused! I'm gonna throw the ball back into your court, make some general statements, and ask some questions.

    OK, the fittings on your valve and tractor are 37º JIC fittings, so you'll need a hose with these fittings on each end. Hose assemblies can be purchased at Tractor Supply and can be made up at a local hyd shop and many auto parts stores...NAPA, Advance, etc. First, you need to know what size fittings...this will also determine the size of the hose...and then the length of the hose.

    Fitting size: Measure the OD of the thread with the male taper on it. I'm thinking it'll measure 7/16", 1/2", or 9/16". Measure all fittings that hose(s) will attach to.

    Next, mount valve and get wire, string... anything to go where the hose is going to go!... and slip into fittings. Route this "anything" how/where you need the hose. Make sweeping bends, not tight 90ºs. Make a mark on each end of whatever you used, remove, straighten, and measure mark to mark. This is the length you'll need END TO END.

    To jump ahead a few steps, once you know the size of the fittings and the total length of all the hoses, you can get twice the length you need...plus a little more, NEVER less... cut it to length and have a parts or hyd store crimp ends on for you.

    Get back with fitting thread OD size and we'll go from there. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    Mudrig, After bouncing back & forth between the 140 and the 300 JD parts catalog, I got quite confused! I'm gonna throw the ball back into your court, make some general statements, and ask some questions.

    OK, the fittings on your valve and tractor are 37º JIC fittings, so you'll need a hose with these fittings on each end. Hose assemblies can be purchased at Tractor Supply and can be made up at a local hyd shop and many auto parts stores...NAPA, Advance, etc. First, you need to know what size fittings...this will also determine the size of the hose...and then the length of the hose.

    Fitting size: Measure the OD of the thread with the male taper on it. I'm thinking it'll measure 7/16", 1/2", or 9/16". Measure all fittings that hose(s) will attach to.

    Next, mount valve and get wire, string... anything to go where the hose is going to go!... and slip into fittings. Route this "anything" how/where you need the hose. Make sweeping bends, not tight 90ºs. Make a mark on each end of whatever you used, remove, straighten, and measure mark to mark. This is the length you'll need END TO END.

    To jump ahead a few steps, once you know the size of the fittings and the total length of all the hoses, you can get twice the length you need...plus a little more, NEVER less... cut it to length and have a parts or hyd store crimp ends on for you.

    Get back with fitting thread OD size and we'll go from there. Bob
    Hm. I"ll have to finish pulling the valve to get specs. Couldn't I just unscrew the female to male fitting on the valve body and screw the hose directly in? Or get a hose with female couplers already on it?
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Screw hose into valve body: Will work, but VERY special hose end required. I believe the tapped holes in the valve body are "o-ring boss fittings" and you won't find a hose already made with those fittings. As far as getting a hose with fittings/couplers already attached, "yes", BUT WHAT SIZE? That's why I asked for thread sizes. Bob
    Last edited by rwmeyer; 08-23-2019 at 02:36 PM. Reason: typo
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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