MX8 Rotary Cutter Quality Question
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
Like Tree20Likes

Thread: MX8 Rotary Cutter Quality Question

  1. Top | #1
    Thowle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    10-15-2019 @ 08:41 PM
    Location
    West Kentucky
    Posts
    169
    Thanks
    23
    Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts

    MX8 Rotary Cutter Quality Question

    What factors would be the cause of this new MX8 cutter leaving uncut vegetation, specifically stalks and plants like sireca (sp)?

    Pulling with a 4066R, seems to have plenty of power. Set engine just above 540 and the digital display says it maintains it...

    Have tried going between 1mph and 4mph; full width cut and half overlap; low cut height and high height, none of those seem to make a difference.

    The only thing that makes a difference is going back over it a 2nd time, then it is great quality.

    I haven't checked the blade sharpness; it is new and had only 30 hours on it when I noticed the issue... so assuming the blades were sharpened right from factory, figure that's not 100% the issue

    I also haven't adjusted the rear wheels, it seems to sit level when cutting at a medium height, likely 6" or so.

    Is it just the way it is, because of how thick, tall, and strong the plants are? Or something else I may be missing?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20171005_151356_1507245821953.jpg 20171005_151354_1507245833939.jpg 20171005_114542_1507245854446.jpg
    JKR and BigJim55 like this.
    2017 John Deere 4066R w/ Cab & 2019 John Deere 5100R
    [Frontier] LS1125 Sprayer | DS1508 Disk | CS1384 Seeder | PR1172 Power Rake | RR2211 Rotary Rake
    [John Deere] H180 Loader | 540R Loader | E15 Cutter | 630 MoCo | 338 Square Baler
    [Unverferth] Perfecta 10 Field Cultivator



    Elwoh Solutions
    Website: www.elwoh.com | Blog: blog.elwoh.com

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    ddinham's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:22 PM
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    3,643
    Thanks
    167
    Thanked 503 Times in 386 Posts
    I have the same sort of issues with my 110 inch RFM. I attribute it to the tall stuff laying down under the mower as the multiple blade mowers are not deep enough from front to rear to cut it before it exits the rear of the mower. Some of that laying down may be from the tire tracks. I have no problems with short stuff. Obviously max RPM's are necessary.

    Dave
    BigJim55, em14 and PJR832 like this.
    JD 4066R CAB
    JD H180 FEL with SSQA brackets, JD iMatch, JD Ballast Box & ext, JD pull behind seed spreader
    Frontier RB2196H 8 ft rear blade/hyd angle, Frontier BB1065 Box Blade, Befco 3pt 110 inch RFM
    48" pallet forks, KK 3pt Boom Pole, Northern Tool 3pt middle buster, 2 bottom Dearborn plow
    County Line post hole digger, Rhino 3pt 10ft brush hog, Land Pride 8ft rock rake
    Fit Rite Hydraulics 3pt Top Link, front 3pt adapter for SSQA, 7 1/2 ft Field Roller, 8ft Dearborn tandem disk

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Last Online
    12-04-2018 @ 03:50 PM
    Location
    Navasota, TX
    Posts
    515
    Thanks
    7
    Thanked 55 Times in 46 Posts
    That thick stemmy stuff can be tough to cut sometimes. I'd recommend dropping the shredder down on the skids or raising it up so the chains are laying it down so much before the blades

    Brett
    BigJim55 and PJR832 like this.
    2017 5100E CAB H260
    ---FRONTIER BB4296
    ---MX15
    ---MX8
    ---EA 72" GRAPPLE

    2017 KUBOTA ZD1211R
    2017 KUBOTA RTV-X1100C
    4K winch, 2Ēlift, 27s

    GONE AND FORGOTTEN
    2013 AND 2014 5055E CAB H240

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    coaltrain's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:39 PM
    Location
    NW Penna
    Posts
    20,384
    Thanks
    1,111
    Thanked 3,144 Times in 2,302 Posts
    With tough fall grasses like that there isnít really anything you can do. I just plan to go over the area a second time being sure I am going in the opposite direction of the first.

    Lowering the deck will sometimes help a little but donít like trying to use it like a finish mower.

    Take a piece of that grass that didnít cut - pick it up and see how tough it is. A lot of that stuff is impossible to break with your hands - itís tough!
    BigJim55 and PJR832 like this.
    ~Stan~
    It is what it is
    Knowledge is power, ignorance is bliss
    2520 w/200CX w/62D2

  7. Top | #5
    CNGreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Last Online
    11-02-2019 @ 01:09 AM
    Location
    Pike Road, Alabama
    Posts
    1,072
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 76 Times in 67 Posts
    I would check and make sure the blades are sharp and check to make sure the slip clutch is not slipping when hitting the tall grass. I also have the MX8 and have cut fields with grass up to the hood and it is not leaving grass that bad.
    PJR832 likes this.
    2014 John Deere 5100E H240 FEL 6' Rakemaster Root Grapple, 2016 Woods PSS72 food plot seeder, 2013 John Deere XUV 550 S4 2015 Orsi 12' boom mower with flail head, 2016 John Deere 4105 with front end loader, 2016 John Deere MX6, 2018 Everything Attachments 55" Wicked Grapple. 2018 Everything Attachments Severe Extreme Duty 6' Landscape Rake, 2018 John Deere 1025R TLB with 54D quick connect deck [SIZE=2][COLOR="#008000"]

  8. Top | #6
    ddinham's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:22 PM
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    3,643
    Thanks
    167
    Thanked 503 Times in 386 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by CNGreen View Post
    I would check and make sure the blades are sharp and check to make sure the slip clutch is not slipping when hitting the tall grass. I also have the MX8 and have cut fields with grass up to the hood and it is not leaving grass that bad.
    I agree on checking the slip clutch. Put a chalk mark on both plates and check them again after mowing some tough stuff to see they have moved.

    Dave
    BigJim55 and PJR832 like this.
    JD 4066R CAB
    JD H180 FEL with SSQA brackets, JD iMatch, JD Ballast Box & ext, JD pull behind seed spreader
    Frontier RB2196H 8 ft rear blade/hyd angle, Frontier BB1065 Box Blade, Befco 3pt 110 inch RFM
    48" pallet forks, KK 3pt Boom Pole, Northern Tool 3pt middle buster, 2 bottom Dearborn plow
    County Line post hole digger, Rhino 3pt 10ft brush hog, Land Pride 8ft rock rake
    Fit Rite Hydraulics 3pt Top Link, front 3pt adapter for SSQA, 7 1/2 ft Field Roller, 8ft Dearborn tandem disk

  9. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Last Online
    10-16-2019 @ 09:31 PM
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    359
    Thanks
    52
    Thanked 23 Times in 20 Posts
    With my MX-8 in real heavy grass or brush the way to reduce the amount of left-over grass was to go " low and slow". It appeared to me that the cut material would form a mat or wads that tended to lay on top of other grass and flatten it just below the cutter blades.

    If you're moving along a bit too fast or the blades are a skooch too high the blades won't cut up the wads enough for the flattened grass to pop back up and get mowed.

    So, a 2nd pass with the mower flat on the runners was necessary.
    BigJim55 and PJR832 like this.
    JD5115M, JD4720, JD110TLB, Ford 9N, JDX300R, JD458SS, JD347,336 sq. balers, JD MX-8, Kuhn hay equip, etc.

  10. Top | #8
    ky_shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Last Online
    10-16-2018 @ 09:44 AM
    Location
    Bluegrass state
    Posts
    1,933
    Thanks
    176
    Thanked 270 Times in 225 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Thowle View Post
    What factors would be the cause of this new MX8 cutter leaving uncut vegetation, specifically stalks and plants like sireca (sp)?

    Pulling with a 4066R, seems to have plenty of power. Set engine just above 540 and the digital display says it maintains it...

    Have tried going between 1mph and 4mph; full width cut and half overlap; low cut height and high height, none of those seem to make a difference.

    The only thing that makes a difference is going back over it a 2nd time, then it is great quality.

    I haven't checked the blade sharpness; it is new and had only 30 hours on it when I noticed the issue... so assuming the blades were sharpened right from factory, figure that's not 100% the issue

    I also haven't adjusted the rear wheels, it seems to sit level when cutting at a medium height, likely 6" or so.

    Is it just the way it is, because of how thick, tall, and strong the plants are? Or something else I may be missing?

    Do you have the chain guards on your cutter? I have ran multiple cutters on multiple tractors for the past 25 years and dang near every cutter I have ran that has rubber or chains results in a poor cut when cutting thicker weeds/grass. In my opinion the chains/rubber keeps to much material under the cutter deck basically mulching the materials the same as a finishing mower with a mulch kit on it, if the material is thrown out and away from the cutter there will be more capacity under there to cut the thicker stuff cleanly.
    Last edited by ky_shawn; 10-21-2017 at 10:32 PM.
    BigJim55 and PJR832 like this.
    3520 (cab, eHydro, R1's, 300x fel, forks, grapple) Frontier 5' cutter, 7' Tufline disk, 6' Gill pulverizer, 6' box blade, 6' rear blade, TSC post auger, 6' Woods rfm, 8' JD rotary hoe, 8' Brillion cultipacker, 6' field cultivator, Tarter spreader, Fimco 3 point sprayer, subsoiler, ken's bolt on hooks & clevis, JD Z920 ZTR

  11. Top | #9
    Thowle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    10-15-2019 @ 08:41 PM
    Location
    West Kentucky
    Posts
    169
    Thanks
    23
    Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
    Reviving this thread for the same issues. This time, I sharpened the blades (overly sharp for a bush hog), ensured it is level front-to-rear and lowered the cutting height to about 5" tall. The slip clutch isn't slipping.

    I mowed at around 3 to 4 mph, and in regular fine grass or weeds, it cuts like a lawn mower. In vegetation with really thick stems, it cuts really good on the outside, but the middle is horrible -- it just defoliates it and leaves the stems (as noted in previous posts).

    Perhaps this is just caused by the design of the mower and rotation of the spindles -- as the blades move to the rear on the outside, and towards the front on the inside. Maybe the forward motion of the cutter and tractor combined with the forward motion of the blades in the middle plus the act of pushing the vegetation over to the front as you drive is causing the issue.
    BigJim55 and PJR832 like this.
    2017 John Deere 4066R w/ Cab & 2019 John Deere 5100R
    [Frontier] LS1125 Sprayer | DS1508 Disk | CS1384 Seeder | PR1172 Power Rake | RR2211 Rotary Rake
    [John Deere] H180 Loader | 540R Loader | E15 Cutter | 630 MoCo | 338 Square Baler
    [Unverferth] Perfecta 10 Field Cultivator



    Elwoh Solutions
    Website: www.elwoh.com | Blog: blog.elwoh.com

  12. Top | #10
    ddinham's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:22 PM
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    3,643
    Thanks
    167
    Thanked 503 Times in 386 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Thowle View Post
    Reviving this thread for the same issues. This time, I sharpened the blades (overly sharp for a bush hog), ensured it is level front-to-rear and lowered the cutting height to about 5" tall. The slip clutch isn't slipping.

    I mowed at around 3 to 4 mph, and in regular fine grass or weeds, it cuts like a lawn mower. In vegetation with really thick stems, it cuts really good on the outside, but the middle is horrible -- it just defoliates it and leaves the stems (as noted in previous posts).

    Perhaps this is just caused by the design of the mower and rotation of the spindles -- as the blades move to the rear on the outside, and towards the front on the inside. Maybe the forward motion of the cutter and tractor combined with the forward motion of the blades in the middle plus the act of pushing the vegetation over to the front as you drive is causing the issue.

    Compare your tire tracks with the poorly mowed stuff. I find that in tall stuff, both my 110 inch RFM and my 10ft brush hog leave strips where the tire tracks are. Apparently the tall stuff lays down from the tires traveling over it and is still down when the mower passes over it. Maybe try backing over the same stuff to keep the tire tracks out of the situation, just to test it.

    Dave
    PJR832 likes this.
    JD 4066R CAB
    JD H180 FEL with SSQA brackets, JD iMatch, JD Ballast Box & ext, JD pull behind seed spreader
    Frontier RB2196H 8 ft rear blade/hyd angle, Frontier BB1065 Box Blade, Befco 3pt 110 inch RFM
    48" pallet forks, KK 3pt Boom Pole, Northern Tool 3pt middle buster, 2 bottom Dearborn plow
    County Line post hole digger, Rhino 3pt 10ft brush hog, Land Pride 8ft rock rake
    Fit Rite Hydraulics 3pt Top Link, front 3pt adapter for SSQA, 7 1/2 ft Field Roller, 8ft Dearborn tandem disk

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts