I got a derelict old snow plow for nothing, and adapted it for use on the H240 loader on my 5055E. I had a few ideas on how to do it, I ended up changing in mid build after I read a few threads on here and other places. I intended to build it rigid (other than angle, of course). So initially I concentrated on getting the JDQA mount I was building as close as I could to limit the leverage on the FEL.
This is what I started with, I'd already taken the cylinders and some of the brackets off when I took this. The truck mount is still resting on the pallet, too.
I bought some 5" and 4" C channel steel for the frame from my local steel guy. I shop their drop piles pretty often and they hook me up, the total I spent for all the steel with them was $45. I had a few odd pieces I used. I ordered the lower JDQA pins from HERE for ~$8.
Here's the basic frame coming together.
I cut the frame and was doing mock-ups of mounting it at the same angle as my bucket, so the level indicator would mean something. Still concentrating on keeping it really tight at this point.
This is where I started to have concerns about hard mounting. I was going to have shoes on the blade (haven't bought those yet, ~$85), but I could see that trying to float the loader would be an issue. I tossed around the idea of putting a third shoe on the FEL bracket so I could have the weight of the plow on the ground. I went online to look at other builds and plows. I found a lot of disconcerting talk about how hard mounting the plow pushed the tractor around because carrying the weight took traction. I have a bigger tractor and will have the 3pt 7' blower on, so I thought I might be okay. Then I saw some videos of a guy running a plow with basically the same system a pickup would use, so it rests on the ground and hinges like it was designed to. Search "fisher plow john deere" on youtube if you want to see why I changed my mounting system.
Back to the steel shop, I got some round stock and and tubing to make a super duty hinge. I cut the tubing 90% through on the chop saw, and spaced the ends away from the QA frame so the center could rotate with the plow. I welded it all up solid, the finished the cuts on the tubing, making my hinge.
I welded that center section to the previously cut off plow frame. The hinge pin is huge, but it's what they had handy in a size that fit well in tubing. It looks stainless but it's just 4140 cold rolled that was left over from something that needed that finish.
Next I "boxed" the top of the frame and put a chain hook on. Backwards. I welded the chain hook (made from angle iron, not a real hook) 180 degrees from the orientation I wanted it in. And of course I welded it all out before I noticed. Luckily, it doesn't really affect the way it works. I considered beefing the top hooks for the FEL up, but I think they'll be fine and are easy to get at if I need to do it later. When the plow is in use, they don't carry weight or plow load.
This is the plow mounted with the chain hooked up and the bucket level indicator at "level" for my bucket. I can adjust that any way I want between the chain and curl function, but I figured that's a good place to start.
You can see the finished hinge here, I drilled the round stock for normal implement lynch pins to hold it in. I'll probably put some grease on the pin after paint, it's loose enough that it will be as anti-seize than necessary lubricant. The whole plow is pretty loosey-goosey on tolerances being as it's been around since Jesus was a cowboy. Paint, skid shoes, and snow. That's all I need to see if it was worth the $150 I've got invested. Possible upgrade later to hydraulic angle via DA cylinder, but I don't have so much to plow that it's a big priority.
This went pretty easy, Surprisingly. I have to give a shout out to my little Miller 211 welder. I was welding some heavy steel in places, and without much of a rest. It did great set on "kill" and throwing the wire in there.
Now we wait.