Removing suitcase weights
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    orono's Avatar
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    Removing suitcase weights

    I have a X738 with a cat 1 3pt hitch. Plus I have a heavy hitch attached to my 3pt hitch. I am currently using 8 - 42# suitcase weights on my heavy hitch. During the winter, I plan, actually hope, to use my blade more than my snowblower. My questions are theses:
    1. Should I remove my suitcase weights between uses? (I wonder if this amount of weight is bad for the axle or something else while just sitting in my shed)
    2. I do have a rear weight bracket that I am not using. I could remove my 3 pt hitch and heavy hitch and use my rear weight bracket if that would be recommended?

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    PJR832's Avatar
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    You don't need to remove them each time, just drop your 3 point to take the pressure off.
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orono View Post
    I have a X738 with a cat 1 3pt hitch. Plus I have a heavy hitch attached to my 3pt hitch. I am currently using 8 - 42# suitcase weights on my heavy hitch. During the winter, I plan, actually hope, to use my blade more than my snowblower. My questions are theses:
    1. Should I remove my suitcase weights between uses? (I wonder if this amount of weight is bad for the axle or something else while just sitting in my shed)
    2. I do have a rear weight bracket that I am not using. I could remove my 3 pt hitch and heavy hitch and use my rear weight bracket if that would be recommended?
    If the rear weight bracket is the one which bolts to the frame, similar to the one I have on my 455, I think the limit of suitcase weights it will hold is between 4 to 6 of the 42 pound weights.

    A benefit of the weight bracket verses the 3 point hitch and heavy hitch bracket is the bolt on weight bracket is much closer to the rear of the tractor and gives you less sticking out from the back of the tractor. If you get into tight areas in the driveway or near a vehicle or building, having less length sticking out of the rear of the tractor can be helpful.

    Have you used the plow with that much weight (8 of the 42 # weights) on the rear of your x738? I would think you would be near the point of making the front of the tractor light, which will cause the front steering wheels to slide more easily.

    Keep in mind that the blade is a lot lighter than the blower so you may not need as much ballast on the rear. Generally one or two more weights isn't a problem, but I have gotten my 455 to the point where too much weight on the rear made the front too light and the steering wasn't as good.

    If you have ever used the "Float" function on either your blade or blower, you will know what I am talking about with the front wheels sliding instead of turning in certain situations and conditions.
    Last edited by SulleyBear; 12-14-2017 at 01:07 PM. Reason: added content
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    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

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    Try it with all the weights on it. If the front end is too light just start removing weights until you find the proper balance. To me there is no need to remove the 3pt and heavy hitch. When I used to plow snow with JD 400 (same size as your X series but about 3-4 generations older) I had 4 weights on the back of it and it was fine. Removing the draft arms is kind of a pain and unless you have tight spaces like previously mentioned I would leave them on.

    You will probably find if you put a set of chains on it and leave some weights you will have the best available traction but it all depends on what kind of snow you get. Since you list MN as your location I am going to bet you have your blower on for most of the winter. Come on down to NC if you want to escape the majority of that white stuff...
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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    I can only answer about my 1026. In the winter months most of the time I have 8 suitcase weights on the back 3PH. When I park it in our garage I leave the 3PH in the up position. It doesn't leak down and doesn't hurt it. So there are times the weight on the back is in the up position for a couple months. No problem.
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    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1Ĺ" rear wheel spacers.
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    With my 1025r in the winter I have eight 42 pound weights on my Heavy Hitch. I lower the three point each time I park it. During the summer months I can have eight 70 pound weights plus the eight 42 pound weights. I lower the 3 point if itís not going to sit but for a couple days. Otherwise Iíll slide the Heavy Hitch cart into the hitch and lower the 3 pt until the cart carries the weight. Either way it shouldnít hurt the 3 pt.


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    orono's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    If the rear weight bracket is the one which bolts to the frame, similar to the one I have on my 455, I think the limit of suitcase weights it will hold is between 4 to 6 of the 42 pound weights.

    A benefit of the weight bracket verses the 3 point hitch and heavy hitch bracket is the bolt on weight bracket is much closer to the rear of the tractor and gives you less sticking out from the back of the tractor. If you get into tight areas in the driveway or near a vehicle or building, having less length sticking out of the rear of the tractor can be helpful.

    Have you used the plow with that much weight (8 of the 42 # weights) on the rear of your x738? I would think you would be near the point of making the front of the tractor light, which will cause the front steering wheels to slide more easily.

    Keep in mind that the blade is a lot lighter than the blower so you may not need as much ballast on the rear. Generally one or two more weights isn't a problem, but I have gotten my 455 to the point where too much weight on the rear made the front too light and the steering wasn't as good.

    If you have ever used the "Float" function on either your blade or blower, you will know what I am talking about with the front wheels sliding instead of turning in certain situations and conditions.
    I have used the float position when using my blade with all 8 weights (overkill so far but I'm relatively new to this tractor ownership). Before I figured out how to use float I was experiencing my front wheels were coming up off of the ground. Yes I had some sliding then. I would like to keep my 3pt hitch on to move my snowmobile trailer this winter. Yes the 3pt makes it longer but I do not have many tight areas that I need to worry about. By the way, I think your Mauser cab sounds fantastic!


    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    I can only answer about my 1026. In the winter months most of the time I have 8 suitcase weights on the back 3PH. When I park it in our garage I leave the 3PH in the up position. It doesn't leak down and doesn't hurt it. So there are times the weight on the back is in the up position for a couple months. No problem.
    I tried to get my 3PH into the optimal position and keep it "there" for the winter. I'm not having very good luck with that. Once I put the 3PH at the height I want it to be, I closed the SCV (I think this is what is may be called) underneath the tractor. But when I went out and used my blade, I put the tractor back into my shed and the 3PH was in the down position. Any suggestions? Am I not understanding how to do this correctly?

    Quote Originally Posted by cheesetrain View Post
    With my 1025r in the winter I have eight 42 pound weights on my Heavy Hitch. I lower the three point each time I park it. During the summer months I can have eight 70 pound weights plus the eight 42 pound weights. I lower the 3 point if itís not going to sit but for a couple days. Otherwise Iíll slide the Heavy Hitch cart into the hitch and lower the 3 pt until the cart carries the weight. Either way it shouldnít hurt the 3 pt.


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    Good idea to lower the 3PH at the end of the use. I did that when I had my mower on it this past summer. As I mentioned above, I had hoped to "set it and forget it." But I do not think I am doing something correct.
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    TJR345's Avatar
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    What I do on my X595 with Heavy Hitch is raise it all the way up,close the bypass valve,turn the depth gauge screw in.This takes the pressure off the hydro cylinder and keeps it in the up position.I don't have a Deere 3pt but the silver thread on the left in the pic is the depth adjustment,yours will have the same.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0561.JPG
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    Tom

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    orono's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJR345 View Post
    What I do on my X595 with Heavy Hitch is raise it all the way up,close the bypass valve,turn the depth gauge screw in.This takes the pressure off the hydro cylinder and keeps it in the up position.I don't have a Deere 3pt but the silver thread on the left in the pic is the depth adjustment,yours will have the same.
    Thank you all for your comments.

    TJR345, I will look for the depth screw and turn it in as you suggest.
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    No and no . Just watch backing up to the garage door .

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