Thinking of getting at 5ft countrytime rear blade .... help please..
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Thread: Thinking of getting at 5ft countrytime rear blade .... help please..

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    USAFRet's Avatar
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    Thinking of getting at 5ft countrytime rear blade .... help please..

    I have a 1025R and 54" snowblower on for the winter and so far its great. Last week we have some light snow mush and the blower doesn't do a very good job with that stuff.

    So I am looking at adding a rear blade. I saw a 5' blade tractor supply for $329 which seems very good.

    My questions are...

    Is this too big for the 1025 or should i get the 4' sub compact model?

    Can i rotate the blade around so i can push backwards to clear mush or light snow?

    As you can tell I might not even know the right questions to ask so any help would be very much appreciated.

    I just want to be able to clear light snow by maybe going in reverse as i don't want to take my blower off or put a front blade on.

    Thank you and Merry Christmas to all
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    2017 1025R with turf tires
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    TJR345's Avatar
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    I'd put a 5' on my x595 and would have no problem,1025r same thing.You do want to measure the pins on the blade.They should be around 12-13" for limited lift cat 1,and 16-17" for cat 1.Measure your 3pt arm at the lowest point then raise to highest point.This will give you an idea how far off the ground the blade will be when raised depending on the height of the pins.
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    Tom

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    check for rotation

    Quote Originally Posted by TJR345 View Post
    I'd put a 5' on my x595 and would have no problem,1025r same thing.You do want to measure the pins on the blade.They should be around 12-13" for limited lift cat 1,and 16-17" for cat 1.Measure your 3pt arm at the lowest point then raise to highest point.This will give you an idea how far off the ground the blade will be when raised depending on the height of the pins.
    You would also want to take some measurements to make sure the blade will rotate without hitting the tractor wheels or any other part. The distance, including the lift arms to the center of the rotation part has to be longer than than 1/2 the length of the blade.

    Another issue would be the height of the pins above the ground. Make sure you will be able to lift the blade high enough to clear any bumps and go over snow piles. Take the height of the pins when the blade is sitting on the ground like it would be if hooked up. Measure the highest point your lift arms will go and check the difference. The blade lift will be higher than the pin lift as it's on the outside of a radius but you can get the idea.

    Treefarmer
    John Deere 790, 300 loader w Ken's Bolt on Hooks & Piranha tooth bar, grapple, back blade, box blade, Bush Hog mower, couple of red tractors, hay equipment, various old stuff some red, one orange, some I don't remember

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    It will work. Pushing backwards isn't a very smooth operation but it works.

    I have the County Line 5' blade and it is very well built. I do recommend checking them closely when you go shopping though. Most Tractor Supply stores around here seem to have 4 or 5 of them in stock at any given time. The welds on them aren't what I would call "consistent" so look at the welds and pick the one that looks best.
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    D160 Mower/Bagger.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treefarmer View Post
    You would also want to take some measurements to make sure the blade will rotate without hitting the tractor wheels or any other part. The distance, including the lift arms to the center of the rotation part has to be longer than than 1/2 the length of the blade.
    The extension arm that the blade is mounted to is 32" long so once mounted and lifted, the 5' blade will (just barely!) turn within it's own length. Unless the tractor's 3pt arms don't clear it's own tires this shouldn't be a problem.
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
    2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54" Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5' Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42" Forks & QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper

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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    I have the 5’ TSC rear blade on my 1 series. It, combined with my front blower, is a great snow removal setup. That being said, it doesn’t lift up real high off the ground, but is high enough for my use. It will spin around, when mounted, with no problem. I have my blade mounted with the concave surface of the blade facing towards the operator station of the tractor, and I push the snow while driving in reverse. I would also suggest adding a rubber edge to the blade if you are going to be using it on concrete or asphalt. I wouldn’t bother with the 48” blade as it will barely cover your tracks, and if it’s angled, it won’t cover the tracks.
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    Jamie

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    TJR345's Avatar
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    The Frontier blade RB1060L the "L" is for limited lift cat 1 which the x7xx and 1025r are.This is designed to lift high enough to give clearance.
    https://www.muttonpower.com/c-740-rear-blades.aspx
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    Tom

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    I have a 1025r with HF quick hitch on the back.
    I use a 6 foot back blade on mine and I can spin it around without issue.
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    TheOtherChris
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    You can use a five foot blade easily. As others have said, you don't want the four foot because, when angled, it will not be as wide as your wheel tracks. A five footer is perfect.

    You should be able to turn the blade all the way around, but may not be able to do so while it is hooked up. That is the case with mine...but I have an older Ford brand blade that I picked up cheap on CL.
    TJR345, PJR832 and USAFRet like this.
    JD 1025r; H120 loader; Howse 48" rotary cutter; Deere 647 tiller; County Line post hole digger; County Line middle buster; County Line carry-all; Ford 5' 3-point blade; Heavy Hitch receiver hitch/weight bracket; Heavy Hitch tooth bar; Titan pallet forks; Ken's bolt-on hooks.

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    Every time I see this thread title it reminds me of lemonade.....
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