Trading some tilling work
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Thread: Trading some tilling work

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    Jamone's Avatar
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    Trading some tilling work

    After borrowing a tiller from my parents yesterday and tilling my garden Iím itching to do more ground engaging work. My in laws normally pay someone to till their garden. Going to till theirs and get 4-6 truckfulls of nice cut wood along with this disk harrows and subsoiler. They have some very old tractor they are selling to some other relative and havenít been used in a while.

    I have some hilly power lines that I keep finish mowed, it is kinda bumpy with random spattering of dips typically 3-10 ft across that Iíd like to smooth out. I know this may not be a project I get done this year. Would a disk, tiller, FEL be enough to smooth something like this out? I can also borrow a 6 series with FEL and fully hydraulically actuated rear blade if I need. If I needed to get an implement to help with this what make sense? Box blade, land plane? Iíd prefer to not till the whole thing since itís probably 4 acres worth overall and that seems like it will be a lot of work to ensure when it looses the fluffiness itís smooth.


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    2017 2038r 72Ē MMM Command Cut 220r loader
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    2017 2038r R4s with filled rear, iMatch, 72" MMM, 220R loader with standard bucket, Artillian forks, Woodmax FM-62" flail mower, EA 66" Box blade, Deere KBL 6' discs, cultivator, subsoiler, ballast box full of concrete, single point loader connector, rear dual SCVs, hydraulic top & tilt.

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    Jamone's Avatar
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    Forgot to include the pic


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    2017 2038r 72Ē MMM Command Cut 220r loader
    etcallhome, Levi, OxPath and 6 others like this.
    2017 2038r R4s with filled rear, iMatch, 72" MMM, 220R loader with standard bucket, Artillian forks, Woodmax FM-62" flail mower, EA 66" Box blade, Deere KBL 6' discs, cultivator, subsoiler, ballast box full of concrete, single point loader connector, rear dual SCVs, hydraulic top & tilt.

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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    That is some nice equipment I would not say no if it was given to me. I made a sub soil tool out of a 100 year old plow head. Worked great till it hit a underground rock and shattered the cast Iron plow into pieces. Got the ditch done I built it for tho!
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    Depends how good you are with the loader. I have similar issues with my rifle range, which also happens to be about 4 acres. My dips and bumps are from loggers pushing out a landing and trees uprooting from wind over the centuries. I hope to acquire a box blade to help with these chores, but will likely do the rough work with my FEL bucket and root grapple (it doubles as a rake).
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    636mullet's Avatar
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    I like to use my tiller for smoothing in low spots in my yard. What I do is till the high spots and use a blade or loader to move the dirt to the low spots. For finishing I use an old section of harrow to mix in fresh grass seed and then a lawn roller to pack everything in. In order to break up sod you'd need a really heavy disk or LOTS of trips across it. In my case it's not that much ground, but I also only do a few spots at a time. It's a nice way to spend a Saturday afternoon.... If you had access to field equipment you could do the whole 4 acres at once, but that'd be a muddy mess till the grass came in. I have a dog so I try to only do sections at a time.

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    Power lines? Sounds like a right-of-way - I wouldnít touch it other than mowing it without permission. Those gullies may have been put there for drainage.
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    Jamone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post
    Power lines? Sounds like a right-of-way - I wouldnít touch it other than mowing it without permission. Those gullies may have been put there for drainage.
    Itís my land and as long as I donít build structures under the lines, and keep it so they could drive down it if they need I can do whatever I want with it.

    Iím not talking about removing the rolling hills, that definitely would effect drainage. I just want to smooth the bumps so itís more comfortable to mow and I can mow it faster. If I get to do a lot of tractor work to get it that way, itís just a bonus.


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    2017 2038r 72Ē MMM Command Cut 220r loader
    2017 2038r R4s with filled rear, iMatch, 72" MMM, 220R loader with standard bucket, Artillian forks, Woodmax FM-62" flail mower, EA 66" Box blade, Deere KBL 6' discs, cultivator, subsoiler, ballast box full of concrete, single point loader connector, rear dual SCVs, hydraulic top & tilt.

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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    My utility easement is the same way. They don't own it and I can use it as I wish as long as they can service their wires and poles.
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    5065E MFWD w/553 loader

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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    I'd start with what you have available and get after it. I think you've got what you need but how to get it done the way you want for me would be trial and err and learn along the way. I'd try the disc first and if it didn't work, try something else.
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    I have a 6 ft Box Blade with 6 rippers I use. Lower the ripper's down a couple inches tilt the box blade forward a little to cut in and just start driving back and forth over the area. Once you get it a little smoother and some softer material fluffed up pull the rippers up and adjust the box blade flat and again keep driving till it looks nice. It will take a while but worth it in the end. Then if you want a crown switch to the rear blade and raise the center of it to drain right and keep the water off the top. If you have that disk try running it over first, mow any grass down low or things won't dig in so good.
    Last edited by JD4044M; 02-26-2018 at 08:08 PM.
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