Bottom of front bucket
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Thread: Bottom of front bucket

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    Bottom of front bucket

    Just wondering if any of you used a hardfacing rods on the bottom of the front bucket. All the equipment I used at work was done on them to prolong the life of the cutting edge. Just wondering because I'm thinking of doing it to mine, only have 4.5 hrs on it. Got it 1-14-18 I reall like it I got a 1025r. I used heavy equipment the first 16 years of my job then switch job same company and became a linemen love live power wires. I don't know much computers how do you guy's put all the stuff you have on the bottom of your post.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    IMHO you would be much better off by simply bolting on a replaceable cutting edge. Several folks are using the Piranha "plain" bolt-on cutting edge.
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    I agree with jgayman ^^^^^^

    Here's a post some time ago about adding a bolt on plain cutting edge. If your interested in going this route, scroll down a few posts in that thread and the parts are listed for you. I have no need for one with teeth, so for my needs, this works well.
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    Darwin
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    I have a WR Long tooth bar that completely protects the cutting edge. With 500 hours on my 30 hp Kubota (forgot the model, now sold), the bucket edge was still in good shape and it was a lot thinner than my current bucket.

    If you are pushing dirt for a living, it would make sense to do something for the cutting edge.
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    2010 Model 4720 with cab and H180 loader, MX8, MX6, Frontier BB1172 box blade, forks, bale spear, rear blade, WR Long grapple and tooth bar, Fit Rite Hydraulics top and tilt. 2019 Bobcat E42 excavator with cab & several attachments. 2019 Deere Z945M EFI ZTrak 60" 7 Iron Pro deck. 1998 Komatsu D39P-1 dozer (size of a Cat D5, sold)

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    I see what your talking about. Looking at the bottom of my bucket I was seeing lots of scratches and wear patterns starting on the 1/8" thick steel they use. I was thinking of adding a couple wear strips welded on to make it last longer. I did add one more Harden 72" Cutter Bar welded on top of the one welded into the bucket to make it a inch thick. That will save my original one before it gets bent or messed up. It just made the chisel tip bigger and on the same angle by recessing it to keep it flush.
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    56Nine's Avatar
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    The second half of your post RE: the stuff at the bottom of the post is called the "signature".

    To make yours, click SETTINGS in the dark green bar, then on the left side click EDIT SIGNATURE.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	gtt_sig.png 
Views:	100 
Size:	166.1 KB 
ID:	558649
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    Darwin
    1025r -> 60D Auto Connect MMM; H120 FEL, 53" bucket, KBOH (3), shackle backer (3), bolt on replaceable cutter; Frontier SB1154; 5' king cutter box blade; king cutter 3pt trailer mover; JD ballast box; 1.25" rear wheel spacers, 40 gallon Fimco sprayer, 52" Ohio Steel lawn sweeper, 3pt King Kutter Poly Fertilizer spreader.

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    Quote Originally Posted by driveshaft View Post
    Just wondering if any of you used a hardfacing rods on the bottom of the front bucket. All the equipment I used at work was done on them to prolong the life of the cutting edge. Just wondering because I'm thinking of doing it to mine, only have 4.5 hrs on it. Got it 1-14-18 I reall like it I got a 1025r. I used heavy equipment the first 16 years of my job then switch job same company and became a linemen love live power wires. I don't know much computers how do you guy's put all the stuff you have on the bottom of your post.
    I would put MANGANEZE steel edge on to deter any ware, It is what they use on dozers and snow plows, It is a heat hardening steel, Cost a little more but the more it is used the harder it gets, (no pun intended) Stop don't go there, Well may be to late!

    Any how there ya go!

    waltmart
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    JD4044M (02-28-2018)

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    Just read about it, Thanks.
    Manganese steel is a high Manganese, fully austenitic, quench annealed, non magnetic, work-hardening steel with an exceptionally high level of wear resistance when subjected to work-hardening by shock or high impact pressure in service.
    The main characteristics is a superior wear resistance: Severe wear on the surface has a work-hardening effect on the austenitic structure of this steel. This, when combined with the level of carbon in accordance with the international standards, leads to an increase in hardness from 200BHN (in as delivered plates) up to an in-service hardness of at least 600BHN.
    This work-hardening capability renews itself through out in-service life. The under layers not work-hardened maintain an excellent resistance to shock and a very high ductility.
    Typical Applications:
    · Quarries and Constructions: Earth moving crusher jaw, grizzly, screen, stone chutes, chain guide and shredder plates, shovel buckets.
    · Mines: Bucket blade of loader, chain conveyor parts, sprocket wheel, various armoring elements.
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    Treefarmer (02-28-2018)

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    IMHO you would be much better off by simply bolting on a replaceable cutting edge. Several folks are using the Piranha "plain" bolt-on cutting edge.
    Just want to say Thank You for your answers give me time to figure this form out
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD4044M View Post
    Just read about it, Thanks.
    Manganese steel is a high Manganese, fully austenitic, quench annealed, non magnetic, work-hardening steel with an exceptionally high level of wear resistance when subjected to work-hardening by shock or high impact pressure in service.
    The main characteristics is a superior wear resistance: Severe wear on the surface has a work-hardening effect on the austenitic structure of this steel. This, when combined with the level of carbon in accordance with the international standards, leads to an increase in hardness from 200BHN (in as delivered plates) up to an in-service hardness of at least 600BHN.
    This work-hardening capability renews itself through out in-service life. The under layers not work-hardened maintain an excellent resistance to shock and a very high ductility.
    Typical Applications:
    · Quarries and Constructions: Earth moving crusher jaw, grizzly, screen, stone chutes, chain guide and shredder plates, shovel buckets.
    · Mines: Bucket blade of loader, chain conveyor parts, sprocket wheel, various armoring elements.
    HEY NOW wait a minute, You told all the good qualities but wholly cow "BATMAN" You neglected the Manganese Steel was used in the Old Cannon Ball safes way back before our time. It worked, I had one and gave it away due to not being able to open it(no combination) DARN-IT. Couldn't drill it with a oil cooled bit with magnetic base, Trust me I tried all I could. Had a friend whom was and is a Lock smith, federally licensed, He told me where to drill and just could not do it, TOUGH STUFFFFFFFFFFFFF

    Now I do THANK-YOU FOR A VERY IMFOMATIVE AND VERY CONSTRUCTIVE REPLY,

    THANK-YOU SIR, VERY MUCH
    Don't do this often but I give You a BIG 5 Thumbs up,


    waltmart
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