Hydraulic fluid quality in older attachments
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    Hydraulic fluid quality in older attachments

    Morning guys, I picked up a mint condition 54” plow along with ax series dual angling quick hitch for my x758. No rust on any of the components aside from the scrapper at the base of the plow. I haven’t hooked them up to my tractor yet to test everything.

    The guy that owned the setup was much older and couldn’t remember his tractor that he had it on before buying his 1 series. It has been sitting in his garage for 5-8 years his son offered to list it since he wasn’t computer savvy.

    Since the hydraulic system is sealed do I have to worry about the age of the fluid sitting in it contaminating the brand new fluid that I have in my x758 which has less than 25hrs?

    My first tractor with a hydraulic system and I want her to last.




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    2017 John Deere x758 w/54" HC mower, 14bu powerflow, 4-way QH, FM dethatcher, 18 steel cart, CTA 66" blade
    2018 Ariens Hydro Pro EFI 28" #313 926068 - SOLD
    2017 Ariens 24" Platinum SHO EFI 921053 - SOLD

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nastorino View Post
    Since the hydraulic system is sealed do I have to worry about the age of the fluid sitting in it contaminating the brand new fluid that I have in my x758 which has less than 25hrs?
    Actually, the hydraulic system is not sealed. As soon as you hook those hoses to your tractor whatever fluid is in the plows cylinders will mix with the fluid in your tractor. Obviously the plow was well taken care of but if it were ME (and I'm a bit anal), I would unscrew the fittings and then work the two cylinders back and forth to flush out the old oil.

    Even when I bought a new rear blade that had hydraulics I had no idea what equipment the selling dealer hooked it to for a test so I flushed out everything.

    After flushing out the fluid by moving the cylinders back and forth I put a bit of fresh fluid in a bucket, inserted the two open hose ends and again worked the cylinders back and forth. This flushed out everything with new fluid.

    I then reattached the quick connects, attached it to my tractor, let the cylinders refill with fluid and then added as necessary to bring my sump back to full.

    Anal? Yes. But why take chances for what amounts to be about 1/2 gallon of unknown fluid.
    Last edited by jgayman; 04-06-2018 at 10:52 AM.
    BigJim55, Ray_PA, OldmanX and 6 others like this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    I agree with above comments Flush the cylinders first. Nice outfit
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    ky_shawn's Avatar
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    This is my opinion, winter is dang near over so using the plow is limited unless your planning on pushing things other than snow. I would let it sit and keep running my tractor the remainder of year until next winter arrives. I would hook my tractor up and operate the plow a bit then I would do a hydraulic service on my tractor even if it's an early service. After the service there still may be some old fluid in the system but regardless of what you do it will be hard to get all of the old fluid out. I personally wouldn't want to run it as is but I wouldn't want to put much effort into getting it out either. What little remained after a hydraulic service I would be content with just fine, but that's me.
    Last edited by ky_shawn; 04-06-2018 at 11:52 AM.
    3520 (cab, eHydro, R1's, 300x fel, forks, grapple) Frontier 5' cutter, 7' Tufline disk, 6' Gill pulverizer, 6' box blade, 6' rear blade, TSC post auger, 6' Woods rfm, 8' JD rotary hoe, 8' Brillion cultipacker, 6' field cultivator, Tarter spreader, Fimco 3 point sprayer, subsoiler, ken's bolt on hooks & clevis, JD Z920 ZTR

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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    I Agree with all above.

    Do not hook up that plow to your tractor without cycling the oil out of the cylinders.

    Probably the easiest way to do this is:

    Pick one quick connect on your tractor to use for this purge.

    Connect one of the quick connects for the angle cylinder to the pre-determined quick connect on your tractor.

    Remove the quick connect off the other line to the angle cylinder and put in a bucket.

    Push your SCV to apply flow to the selected quick connect port. Hold the SCV to push the cylinder till it bottoms out.

    Swap the hoses to the other line on the angle cylinder and do the same thing in the other direction wasting the oil out of this side of the cylinder.

    I would do this two times each way.

    Repeat for the lift cylinder.

    Between purge cycles, refill the tractor hydraulic reservoir.
    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    ky_shawn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray_PA View Post
    I Agree with all above.

    Do not hook up that plow to your tractor without cycling the oil out of the cylinders.

    Probably the easiest way to do this is:

    Pick one quick connect on your tractor to use for this purge.

    Connect one of the quick connects for the angle cylinder to the pre-determined quick connect on your tractor.

    Remove the quick connect off the other line to the angle cylinder and put in a bucket.

    Push your SCV to apply flow to the selected quick connect port. Hold the SCV to push the cylinder till it bottoms out.

    Swap the hoses to the other line on the angle cylinder and do the same thing in the other direction wasting the oil out of this side of the cylinder.

    I would do this two times each way.

    Repeat for the lift cylinder.

    Between purge cycles, refill the tractor hydraulic reservoir.
    This is an easy enough plan that doesn't take much effort. An excellent ideal!
    3520 (cab, eHydro, R1's, 300x fel, forks, grapple) Frontier 5' cutter, 7' Tufline disk, 6' Gill pulverizer, 6' box blade, 6' rear blade, TSC post auger, 6' Woods rfm, 8' JD rotary hoe, 8' Brillion cultipacker, 6' field cultivator, Tarter spreader, Fimco 3 point sprayer, subsoiler, ken's bolt on hooks & clevis, JD Z920 ZTR

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    Quote Originally Posted by ky_shawn View Post
    This is my opinion, winter is dang near over so using the plow is limited unless your planning on pushing things other than snow. I would let it sit and keep running my tractor the remainder of year until next winter arrives. I would hook my tractor up and operate the plow a bit then I would do a hydraulic service on my tractor even if it's an early service. After the service there still may be some old fluid in the system but regardless of what you do it will be hard to get all of the old fluid out. I personally wouldn't want to run it as is but I wouldn't want to put much effort into getting it out either. What little remained after a hydraulic service I be content with just fine.
    Personally, I wouldn't recommend taking the chance of pushing oil that you have no idea what it is into my tractor.

    Once you push unknown oil into your tractor reservoir, you may have just contaminated your hydraulic system in your tractor. Changing the hydraulic oil immediately after you cycle the oil into your tractor will not remove all of the potential contamination.

    It is really incorrect thinking to think that all of the hydraulic oil is drained from a system when draining the reservoir.

    After a hydraulic system is contaminated, it is too late to change the oil. The contaminated oil has already been pumped into your tractors propel circuits.

    I personally wouldn't do it. I would waste the oil in the lift and angle cylinders so I know the oil in them is good.
    ky_shawn, Herminator and PJR832 like this.
    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    ky_shawn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray_PA View Post
    Personally, I wouldn't recommend taking the chance of pushing oil that you have no idea what it is into my tractor.

    Once you push unknown oil into your tractor reservoir, you may have just contaminated your hydraulic system in your tractor. Changing the hydraulic oil immediately after you cycle the oil into your tractor will not remove all of the potential contamination.

    It is really incorrect thinking to think that all of the hydraulic oil is drained from a system when draining the reservoir.

    After a hydraulic system is contaminated, it is too late to change the oil. The contaminated oil has already been pumped into your tractors propel circuits.

    I personally wouldn't do it. I would waste the oil in the lift and angle cylinders so I know the oil in them is good.
    Sir, I never said draining the fluid would get all the old fluid out. I realize that, I'm just saying that's what I would do because putting a lot of effort into it isn't worth it to me. I would do something to hopefully help and wouldn't leave it as is, I just stated what I would do and have done. Perhaps we've always been lucky with our purchasing of used equipment over the years? Your ideal is easy enough and certainly the way I would go about it if I was the op. Sitting with two hoses in a bucket working cylinders by hand however...... Nope, not for me.

    Buying some hunk of junk from an auction, totally different scenario. Buying something from an individual where I can see his equipment, home/shop, and the equipment looking as good as what the op purchased is another scenario, I would risk it. I would purchase something from 99% of the folks on this site and never once give it a seconds thought about running it on my tractor with minimum effort/worry about it.
    Last edited by ky_shawn; 04-06-2018 at 12:03 PM.
    3520 (cab, eHydro, R1's, 300x fel, forks, grapple) Frontier 5' cutter, 7' Tufline disk, 6' Gill pulverizer, 6' box blade, 6' rear blade, TSC post auger, 6' Woods rfm, 8' JD rotary hoe, 8' Brillion cultipacker, 6' field cultivator, Tarter spreader, Fimco 3 point sprayer, subsoiler, ken's bolt on hooks & clevis, JD Z920 ZTR

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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ky_shawn View Post
    Sir, I never said draining the fluid would get all the old fluid out. I realize that, I'm just saying that's what I would do because putting a lot of effort into it isn't worth it to me. I would do something to hopefully help and wouldn't leave it as is, I just stated what I would do and have done. Perhaps we've always been lucky with our purchasing of used equipment over the years? Your ideal is easy enough and certainly the way I would go about it if I was the op. Sitting with two hoses in a bucket working cylinders by hand however...... Nope, not for me.

    Buying some hunk of junk from an auction, totally different scenario. Buying something from an individual where I can see his equipment, home/shop, and the equipment looking as good as what the op purchased is another scenario, I would risk it. I would purchase something from 99% of the folks on this site and never once give it a seconds thought on running it on my tractor with minimum effort/worry about it.
    All good!!! Thank you!!!
    BigJim55, ky_shawn and Herminator like this.
    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    Thanks a lot for the recommendations guys. Winter is nearly over and I have no intention of using the blade for snow. I wouldn't mind testing the blade with some topsoil I will be moving around in the backyard in the next few weeks. I initially purchased this setup because I wanted the QH in order to mount a front mount dethatcher while maintaining hydraulic lift control. There's a guy on eBay that is know on the mytractorforum that sells these brackets that bolt onto the dethatch and have the backing that is on a plow.

    I will end up pulling off the hoses and clearing the cylinders by hand of any residual hydraulic fluid that's in them to prevent contamination to the balance of my system. I can't trust the age of this equipment but based upon the condition of it it's hard to believe its as old as I was told. As y'all were responding and I was reading I forgot I bought a used QH last summer and hooked it up and moved it around without even considering the fluid that was in the cylinders at that time. Granted that one was only a few years old but none the less I risked my system them like an idiot. Damn it!
    2017 John Deere x758 w/54" HC mower, 14bu powerflow, 4-way QH, FM dethatcher, 18 steel cart, CTA 66" blade
    2018 Ariens Hydro Pro EFI 28" #313 926068 - SOLD
    2017 Ariens 24" Platinum SHO EFI 921053 - SOLD

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