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    Hooey's Avatar
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    Adding Ballast

    I want to add more ballast to the rear of my 2038r, sometimes the box scraper just doesn't seem to be enough. Asking the group; ballast box or Heavy Hitch with suitcase weights? The Heavy Hitch is cleaner but the suitcase weights are awful expensive (more than cement!) What do you think 500+ pounds enough? I have the standard 220 loader.
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    Yank's Avatar
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    A ballast box full of cement is, by far, your cheapest option. Easier to take off also. Just drop and go. No weights to load and unload. Now, if you ever think you will need front ballast, the weights might be your answer. I have a ballast box full of Portland cement. No idea what it weighs. But, if you add the weight of the box, the IMatch, and the cement, it should be plenty. I also have the extension, but my cement just comes up to the top of the box. I use the extension for a tool box. Are your tires loaded?
    Last edited by Yank; 04-25-2018 at 04:37 PM.
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    Yancey

    2017 2038R 220R loader
    Frontier 72” rear blade
    Frontier 60” box blade
    Frontier 65” tiller
    Frontier subsoiler
    Frontier 60” landplane
    Frontier 42” pallet forks
    Frontier 72” RC 2072
    HH toothbar KBOH’s bucket hooks
    2019 X758 60HC deck
    Model 80 trailer

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    I put 500lbs of cement in my ballast box and have never had a problem. I installed 3 PVC tubes for chain, rake, broom. it works great.
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    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    A ballast box or the HH weight bracket that holds 16 suitcase weights is the best option. Surprises me the number of people that use a box blade for rear ballast, a 6' Fronrier box blade is only a little over 400#, not near enough to make me feel warm and fuzzy.
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yank View Post
    A ballast box full of cement is, by far, your cheapest option. Easier to take off also. Just drop and go. No weights to load and unload. Now, if you ever think you will need front ballast, the weights might be your answer. I have a ballast box full of Portland cement. No idea what it weighs. But, if you add the weight of the box, the IMatch, and the cement, it should be plenty. I also have the extension, but my cement just comes up to the top of the box. I use the extension for a tool box. Are your tires loaded?

    Your ballast box with cement weighs around 692#.

    Facts and charts like this are included in the link I posted above.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ~Stan~
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    Hooey's Avatar
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    Thank you all for the info.
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    You could also consider liquid tire ballast. That is also pretty cheap, but rather permanent.
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    Let me tell you about my ballast experience. Tractor is a 2014 3032E with 305 loader and 60" frontier box blade. I read the manual and knew the 400lb. box blade wasn't enough.

    We use the tractor for shuttling stone for septic systems, sand for sewer pipe, and finish work around new house pads. It gets worked but we respect it and take good care of it.

    Just got it out of the shop for a left front leaky "kingpin" steering seal. $404 at the dealer and I was good to go. I did hit a hole at 3 mph on a jobsite, with a bucket full of sand, and I did lift the tongue of a trailer to move it a short distance. Was in a hurry and trying to avoid fire danger(dead grass).

    And I did all of this without proper ballast. The cost of the repairs would have easily paid for a new deere ballast box. The day I got the tractor out of the shop, I had a 360 foot septic system to complete. I went by a buddy's house, and borrowed (4) 100lb. suitcase weights off of a case 2390 that I bought from him. Hung the weights on my box blade while shuttling stone to the lateral lines. Worked great, tractor felt balanced and didn't buck or exhibit any negative actions. The front tires didn't bag or cut ruts while under a load. My homemade setup added up to approx. 850 lbs. with my imatch included.

    I ordered a ballast box from my deere dealer that day. Bottom line is get your tractor speced out correctly for your particular activity. If your activity changes, recalculate your setup. I feel foolish for letting this happen to my tractor. I own over 7 other larger machines, and I knew better. Bottom line is buy or make a ballast box for your tractor. Not only does it remove stress off of the front axle assembly, but it balances your tractor out for safety reasons. Try going downhill without a ballast box and a loaded bucket........

    Loaded rear tires and rear wheel weights will make a tractor more stable, and aid in traction, but these 2 items will not take stress off of the front axle. Only a weight placed behind the rear axle(ballast box) will remove stress from the front axle. The further you can get the weight past the center of the rear axle, the better the ballast will work.
    Last edited by lindsey97; 04-25-2018 at 11:47 PM.
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    Yank's Avatar
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    ^^^ What he said.
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    Yancey

    2017 2038R 220R loader
    Frontier 72” rear blade
    Frontier 60” box blade
    Frontier 65” tiller
    Frontier subsoiler
    Frontier 60” landplane
    Frontier 42” pallet forks
    Frontier 72” RC 2072
    HH toothbar KBOH’s bucket hooks
    2019 X758 60HC deck
    Model 80 trailer

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