Researching hydraulic top link for 1025r TLB
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    Researching hydraulic top link for 1025r TLB

    Looks like we're going to be getting a land plane and a rock rake which will be our first 3pt implements. Hubby has tough time getting off/on tractor, so after seeing DieselShadow's Fit Rite video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1RgAiYOc0Q, think something like this might be a help.

    As some of you know, I'm rather mechanically challenged - particularly terminology-wise - but am game for an adventure. Looked at the Fit Rite site, but got lost. Any experienced guides around? We have a 2016 1025r TLB + iMatch.
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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dianedebuda View Post
    Looks like we're going to be getting a land plane and a rock rake which will be our first 3pt implements. Hubby has tough time getting off/on tractor, so after seeing DieselShadow's Fit Rite video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1RgAiYOc0Q, think something like this might be a help.

    As some of you know, I'm rather mechanically challenged - particularly terminology-wise - but am game for an adventure. Looked at the Fit Rite site, but got lost. Any experienced guides around? We have a 2016 1025r TLB + iMatch.
    There are a few but I'm not one of them. I'd love to have your problem though.
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    Jim Timber's Avatar
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    You want one that generally matches the extended and retracted length of your manual toplink.
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    There are a ton of good reasons for Top N Tilt (TnT) but I have to say, a land plane isnít one of them. The whole point of the Land Plane is that it has two long skids that it rides on. You may override/help things a bit by setting the side link or top link but you then drag it that way basically the whole time. Usually what you actually do is set it to match your crown angle (side link) and set it to lie flat on the road (front/back) behind you (top link) and then let the device and skids do what they are supposed to do. In fact, the play in your 3PT system (which is actually pretty substancial) is really important because that is what lets the planeís skids adjust it as needed to smooth out the little hills/bumps/divots/ripples that it finds. The skids are what keep it aligned with the details of the road, not your 3PT settings.

    A rear scraper blade? A box blade? Absolutely! And I find them annoying to use because I donít have TnT and hate getting on/off 100 times over the course of my 2000ft drive (with its. hills and turns and tilts). The Land Plane though, set it, and drag it back and forth several times incrementally improving the drive each time. Then pack it down (roller or strategic drives back/forth with heaviest car) and you are golden. =)

    Best of luck!
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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Brian at Fit Rite will get you in a setup thatíll work perfectly for you as far as the top and side cylinders. Heís got a pretty good sized waiting list, but his product is well worth the wait.

    Youíll still need to get a valve(s) that will be appropriate to what you want. If you describe what you want to do, I can help you select the correct valve(s) for your needs.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    Brian at Fit Rite will get you in a setup thatíll work perfectly for you as far as the top and side cylinders. Heís got a pretty good sized waiting list, but his product is well worth the wait.

    Youíll still need to get a valve(s) that will be appropriate to what you want. If you describe what you want to do, I can help you select the correct valve(s) for your needs.
    The description is tough. Back years and years ago when we plowed with a Sears SS/16, saw the need. These days, we use raised beds, so no plowing in our future at this point. HunterWare is indicating that it won't help with a land plane and I suspect will be same for rock rake. Guess I need to determine if BB will be useful to us too. Only thing I can think of is rough grading "new" gravel/dirt which could be done with FEL. Maybe there isn't a "need" at this point? Any other "common" implements where an adjust-from-seat top link would be useful?

    Didn't know valves weren't included, but not a big surprise. Concern would be placement of valve(s) so that BH not affected. Alas, no TTWT videos for me to follow.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dianedebuda View Post
    The description is tough. Back years and years ago when we plowed with a Sears SS/16, saw the need. These days, we use raised beds, so no plowing in our future at this point. HunterWare is indicating that it won't help with a land plane and I suspect will be same for rock rake. Guess I need to determine if BB will be useful to us too. Only thing I can think of is rough grading "new" gravel/dirt which could be done with FEL. Maybe there isn't a "need" at this point? Any other "common" implements where an adjust-from-seat top link would be useful?

    Didn't know valves weren't included, but not a big surprise. Concern would be placement of valve(s) so that BH not affected. Alas, no TTWT videos for me to follow.
    I would think having it for a box blade or a rear blade would be ideal.

    I have a land plane and you don't need a top-n-tilt for that in my opinion. The only 3 pt adjustment I do to my land plane is to raise/lower the front end of it as that affects how much "bite" the planer blades get. I can do that from the seat of my tractor. Occasionally I have to adjust the 3 point for level from left/right but that's maybe a once every 3 or 4 times I use it. Not sure how the 3 pt arms get out of whack but they do. I have never had to make adjustments with the 3 pt for my land scape rake other than to make sure its level prior to use.
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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    A hydraulic TnT kit isnít needed to use your tractor and implements at all, but it sure does help. Not only can I do the same task, but much much faster and a lot better. I can make adjustments on the fly. Iíll fine tune the blade rather than stopping and tweaking or using it slightly off Ďcause I donít want to stop and adjust again. If your contouring land or cutting ditches or correcting roads, a TnT kit is extremely handy. The quality of my gravel road/driveway repairs has improved greatly immensely after having TnT and saved some time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    A hydraulic TnT kit isnít needed to use your tractor and implements at all, but it sure does help.
    If it can eliminate even a couple tractor off/on trips for hubby per session, it's worth continued research unless the likely usage for the leveler/rake is really small. Have no idea where valves would be placed so as not to be a BH problem. Anyone done this or even seen it for a 1025r?
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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dianedebuda View Post
    If it can eliminate even a couple tractor off/on trips for hubby per session, it's worth continued research unless the likely usage for the leveler/rake is really small. Have no idea where valves would be placed so as not to be a BH problem. Anyone done this or even seen it for a 1025r?
    Yes maíam, it has been done. Click on the link in my signature. Thereís a member here that did a beautiful job on his TLB. I canít find the thread at the moment, but it is documented on Fit Riteís site.
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    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
    1954 60 - getting full restoration, 1964
    110 round fender in the shop for crustoration
    Ferris IS3200Zzero turn mower

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Dieselshadow is my Hero.


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