Convert drag behind aerator to three point?
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    Convert drag behind aerator to three point?

    I'm thinking about using some of my steel in my pile at home to convert my $200 drag behind plugger/aerator to a three point mounted unit. I rarely use it now because I have to stop the tractor at the end of a 300 feet pull to raise it before turning to go back the other way. It may be too much work for my light duty unit, but I thought I'd post it here to see what others have done. I'll likely keep the wheels and just shorten the raise/lower arm so as not to interfere with the three point a-frame.

    Here's a three point conversion of a drag behind harrow that an ag student used for a senior design project. The diagrams at the rear are useful for dimensions: http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cg...context=braesp

    I have a bunch of square steel tube, 3/8" plate, pipe, benders, welding equipment, etc. It would not be too difficult to fab up a small frame and a-frame for the plugger. I bought 150lbs of concrete to make removable blocks for the plugger, and that got me to thinking about just converting it to three point before I form the concrete.

    This is the cheap 48" aerator: Products > 48" Plug Aerator
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    IndianaJim's Avatar
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    I did something similar for a friends dethatcher, to mount on a front quick hitch.
    Ive long thought about doing what you are suggesting, but never have.

    Basically, were I doing it, Id make the A frame first, or if you already have one, maybe you can figure out a way to make something that bolts to it to attach the aerator.
    Really, you wont need the lower part of the A frame, just the two uprights, or more accurately, you only need the attaching points, not the A frame design. It could be an upside down T and do the same thing.

    On that particular aerator, Id probably make some type of cradle that it would ride in. I wouldnt trust its frame to support itself and the added weight.
    Maybe run a couple 2-3" wide 1/4" or thicker pieces, spaced about the width of the hitch, front to back with the front attached to whatever lift frame you come up with and the rear attached to the rear support going to the upper part of the attaching frame.
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    Jim B.

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    I'll mess around with it a little when I get home, but one of my ideas was to slip the aerator over the back of my carry all frame. If the tines and spacing are correct, then maybe I could bolt the top tray to the carry all members.

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    IndianaJim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjfawb0 View Post
    I'll mess around with it a little when I get home, but one of my ideas was to slip the aerator over the back of my carry all frame. If the tines and spacing are correct, then maybe I could bolt the top tray to the carry all members.
    Thats a great idea, and wouldnt take much. Youd just have to have a way to secure it, and Id guess you could just drill through existing holes on the carryall frame into the aerator.
    Heck, if the spacing isnt quite right, you could just do the opposite, put it underneath, and run bolts through both.
    Jim B.

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    Danny D's Avatar
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    Convert drag behind aerator to three point

    This is my very first response to a thread, I just didn't want to navigate through the slow process of learning to do this and also refer frequently to the dictionary for spelling, but I have done the modification and maybe I can provide some ideas. I modified my Agri-Fab 48" Model 45-0299 Plug Aerator about 3 years ago when the tongue broke on mine. I cut the remaining tongue to fit inside the frame upside down to reinforce the center bearing, reinforced the frame with 1 1/2" angle iron, made the lower 3 point mounting brackets from 2" angle iron and installed three pillow block bearings. I bought the upper 3 point frame on craigslist, but it can be easily be fabricated from angle iron. It has worked great on both JD 2305 and 1025R tractors. It does limit all but slight turning, so you pretty much have to aerate in strait lines. Hope that this helps!
    Last edited by Danny D; 07-31-2018 at 08:51 PM. Reason: can't figure out how to add attachments

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    I just did this to a pull behind ATV disc. I used my Heavy Hitch that sets into my Match as a example to make templates for brackets and the geometry. Now my ATV hitch is quick hitch compatible and is a dream to use, especially when I need to back up!

    Took me about 3 hours and about $80 in steel plus the CAT 2 pins.

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    Quote Originally Posted by archermatt1 View Post
    I just did this to a pull behind ATV disc. I used my Heavy Hitch that sets into my Match as a example to make templates for brackets and the geometry. Now my ATV hitch is quick hitch compatible and is a dream to use, especially when I need to back up!

    Took me about 3 hours and about $80 in steel plus the CAT 2 pins.
    Here is a photo
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5704.jpeg  
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjfawb0 View Post
    I'll mess around with it a little when I get home, but one of my ideas was to slip the aerator over the back of my carry all frame. If the tines and spacing are correct, then maybe I could bolt the top tray to the carry all members.
    Will you be able to lift the carry all high enough to also raise the aerator so you can turn or clear objects?

    My carry all frame at it's highest point is maybe 12" off the ground. I have never actually measured it, but I have a hard time visualizing anything functioning under my carry all frame and still obtaining clearance height. As a point of reference, I used the King Kutter frame for my carry all base.

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    Danny D's Avatar
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    Here is my photos
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CIMG4230.JPG   STC_0162.JPG   STC_0173.JPG  
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    Thanks for the ideas. I'm changing axle bearings, seals, and brakes on my wrangler today, so maybe I can tear into this for my next project.

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