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Aerator

11K views 43 replies 19 participants last post by  56Nine 
#1 ·
So last year I rented a 3 point aerator and did my yard in the fall as well as about 6 neighbors houses. All have small lots of about 1/2 acre. Mine is the largest at just over 2 acres. Instead of renting year after year I was thinking of buying. I've been scouring craigslist but they don't seem to show up used all that often. I've resorted to buying new. I've been searching but all I have found is some that are in the 1500-2000 dollar range which is steep.

Then I stumbled upon this. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/yard-tuff-48-in-3-point-plug-aerator?cm_vc=IOPDP1

I like the 48" width and the stands that this has. My only worry is the weight but that can always be pouring some small concrete slabs and putting them on the rack. Anyone have an experience with this model. I'm sure its not built to the standard that the 2000 dollar model is but I can see spending that much coin on something that will get used once or twice a year. I will be using my 1023e to hike it around

Thanks for the input in advance
 
#2 ·
As you probably already know, to aerate sufficiently with a plugger, you need weight. The link doesn't say how heavy this aerator is, although it does say you can put 200 lb. on the weight tray.

How heavy was the aerator that you rented last year? That may give you an idea what weight aerator you need. I see you are in PA so you are most likely in the same situation I am. It takes some weight to aerate in this part of the country.

I have a 48" EA plugger aerator..... https://www.everythingattachments.com/Drum-Lawn-Aerator-p/eta-pluggerv2.htm This aerator weighs 520 lb. by itself and I have put two 80 lb. solid cement blocks on it to add weight. With my 1025R, you have to run a front weight bar loaded with weights or have the FEL attached with this kind of weight on the 3 point.

That said, with the 520 lb. EA aerator plus 160 additional lbs., this aerator will pull some nice plugs.

I cannot comment directly concerning how the TSC aerator will work. Depending on the weight, maybe OK. :dunno:
 
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#3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I found the same one on Northern Tool. States there that it has about 200 pounds to it, which is right at or maybe a little lighter than the one i rented last year. Went I aerated last year it was dry. I stacked a couple of heavy unsplit oak logs on there from the firewood pile and it pulled plugs after i did that. Not sure how much weight it was but the tractor didnt seem to have an issue lifting it. I did have the FEL attached when i was aerating.

I'm just wondering if this will do the job or if I have to step up to a heavier piece of equipment. I would prefer the ole' "Buy once cry once" method so I will probably start looking for some other units. Thanks to for the info. With all the rain we got in PA in the last two week aerating would be a breeze right now...:lol:
 
#6 ·
Don't know what your mounting it on but I would go with the 60",48 barely covers the wheels.I have a 54" on a x595.
 

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#7 ·
Ditto the prior comments. I picked up a 63" Millcreek Aerator at an auction last year. I quickly learned that you need a fair amount of weight to pull a good plug. The unit itself is 410 lbs and I added four small suitcase weights. I really need a couple more or a few concrete blocks. A lot of this has to do with the hardness of the soil when you aerate. I found that a couple days after a rain worked really well. Good luck.
 
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#8 ·
So last year I rented a 3 point aerator and did my yard in the fall as well as about 6 neighbors houses. All have small lots of about 1/2 acre. Mine is the largest at just over 2 acres. Instead of renting year after year I was thinking of buying. I've been scouring craigslist but they don't seem to show up used all that often. I've resorted to buying new. I've been searching but all I have found is some that are in the 1500-2000 dollar range which is steep.

Then I stumbled upon this. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/yard-tuff-48-in-3-point-plug-aerator?cm_vc=IOPDP1

I like the 48" width and the stands that this has. My only worry is the weight but that can always be pouring some small concrete slabs and putting them on the rack. Anyone have an experience with this model. I'm sure its not built to the standard that the 2000 dollar model is but I can see spending that much coin on something that will get used once or twice a year. I will be using my 1023e to hike it around

Thanks for the input in advance
I found that once my neighbors say my core aerator, several of them wanted their lawns done. If they call someone out to do it, it's a minimum of $350 and frankly, the cowboy's who run the machines simply want to get in and get out. They don't bother to call Miss Digg and they don't worry about marking sprinkler heads. They drop, throw cores, collect the money and leave. In fact, they wiped out internet service to the house they were working at recently plus 3 of the neighbors by hitting everyone's lines near the junction box. I tried to warn the guy running the machine about the cables because I had called Miss Digg when I did the neighbors property and there were cables barely below the surface in that entire area, but he didn't speak English and just kept shrugging his shoulders at me.:dunno:

Since the aerator operator didn't call Miss Digg, they were billed to fix the damage they caused and it was late on Friday of Memorial Day weekend. $$$$ Turns out the guys also wiped out 6 of the neighbors sprinkler heads, so that cost $185 to repair. I just don't get why they do things the way they do....:dunno:

I bought the Frontier 60" Aerator. I really like it and I have a total of 8 neighbors who now are paying me to core their lawns at $150 to $250 per lawn (our lawns are 40,000 to 65,000 sq feet on average of actual lawn). So, between the lawns done last fall and others this spring, I have collected just under $2,000 towards the cost of my aerator, which means it's nearly fully paid for itself in one year. I do hang (6) of the 42# suitcase weights on it and they hang nicely on the frame and don't move and improve the coring result.

I looked at this as I would rather have a nice quality tool that will last me the rest of my life and I like the one source for parts from Deere down the road. With the new Ken's I Match Hook, it hooks and unhooks like a dream.

When doing the work for the neighbors, I have a short agreement that they sign and I sign and we both get a copy. Basically is states that

1. I will only aerate after Miss Digg has marked the utilities, which I put in the web request and coordinate with Miss Digg.

2. It's up to the homeowner to mark their sprinkler heads and I loan them the flags to do it (I bought 100 pink flags which are reused). If I have to mark the sprinkler heads, it costs another $50 and I need access to their irrigation controller box.

3. If I strike any sprinkler heads which are marked, they are my responsibility to replace. If I strike any which aren't marked, they aren't my problem. Any lines which are punctured away from the sprinkler heads are the responsibility of the homeowner. Same with any valves, controls, etc. which are not marked.

4. It's up to the home owner to advise me of any other buried risks they might be aware of. Failure to do so and mark the item means it's on them.

5. Payment is due immediately upon completion.

While I frequently will help people out with various tasks, I don't feel it's reasonable for anyone to expect their neighbor to invest the money into a piece of equipment like these tractors and implements and expect work for free. If they are willing to pay someone else to aerate their lawn, then why wouldn't paying me for the same service be reasonable? After all, I charge less and do a much more thorough and careful job.

Many people have never had their lawn truly "Core Aerated". Many use the slit pull behind machines which aren't even in the same category. For the lawns with a lot of thatch, I have a thatcher for the front of my zero turn and then my Wheel Blower to remove the thatch. But adding the steps moves the cost up quite a bit over simply aerating. It takes triple the time to do a lawn with thatching it, removing the thatch and then aerating it.

You may want to take the same approach with your neighbors. It can help offset the cost and ownership of the equipment. This is another reason why buying a near commercial grade piece of equipment is important because when you start to use it often, you will want it to last and do a good job.

I did get approached by a guy just down the road who has a 7 acre lawn for aerating his lawn. In his case, I told him it would be $600 to core aerate it. He doesn't have any irrigation so that cuts down on the time and trouble. Truth is he can go out and rent the tractor and aerator and do it himself for a little less and I really don't care if he does. He tends to hire out most tasks so I expect to be doing his lawn this fall.
 
#9 ·
One thing with the "get in and get out guys" - they probably aren't giving the proper core coverage. I don't remember the spec, but you're supposed to get "x cores per square foot" or "x cores per square yard". The normal core aerator that you rent requires that you go over the property twice to get the recommended coverage. Of course the average joe smoes out there only go over the yard once.

At some point, Sully, you're going to want to buy an A/C unit for that cab! :laugh: I know I'd want one!!
 
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#10 ·
I really want to get one of the EA pluggers, but like you just can't quite dish out that $$$.
Neighbor has a tow behind JD plugger that can be swapped to an thatcher, which I have used.
This spring when it was damp I used it with over 200 lbs added and pulled ~ 1.5" plugs. I believe this is all the more the machine is capable of.

I know it is better than nothing, but I feel getting a deeper penetration and larger plug will be more beneficial overall.

Someday...

Good call on the 811 though Sulley, I never would have thought that any cables would be in the top 3".
 
#22 ·
I really want to get one of the EA pluggers, but like you just can't quite dish out that $$$.
Neighbor has a tow behind JD plugger that can be swapped to an thatcher, which I have used.
This spring when it was damp I used it with over 200 lbs added and pulled ~ 1.5" plugs. I believe this is all the more the machine is capable of.

I know it is better than nothing, but I feel getting a deeper penetration and larger plug will be more beneficial overall.

Someday...

Good call on the 811 though Sulley, I never would have thought that any cables would be in the top 3".
In our area, the dangerous items for core aerating are as follows;

1. Municipal Water Shut off valve Housing ------It is cast iron, probably 6" to 8" in diameter and often near the surface or even at the surface. The cast iron will damage the aerator spoons for sure.......

2. All cables such as phone, cable TV, Internet, etc. In one of the yards I aerate, the cable actually was never buried and the grass has simply grown over it. I should take a photo of it and post it as its really surprising how when you separate the grass at the surface and towards the grass roots, you can find the cable, all 300 feet of it, at that level.....

3. Sprinkler heads as the heavier aerator with the big spoons will shred the sprinkler head. I have Never damaged a supply line though and my yard has 5,500 feet of poly pipe in it, so there is a lot there to hit, but its usually at least 8" deep or more.

4. You also have to be careful with water shut off valves within 8 feet of fire hydrants also, as there is always one there somewhere.........

5. Sprinkler / Irrigation system control valve housings, either the round 6" units with the control, valves or the square or rectangular plastic boxes which are usually quite obvious. The small round units get grown over with sod over time, but not the larger square or rectangular units. Usually, they are placed either in landscape beds or perimeter locations if a professional installed the system and usually, not too far from the controller location since they need low voltage wires to control the valves. When the homeowner has installed their own, you just never know where you might find them.

So when I call Miss Digg, the Water Department guy always calls me first (usually within the hour of posting the request on the website) and says the water lines are not a risk and he either tells me where the water shut off valve is located on the property so I can mark it, or the first time I aerated last year, he marked about 10 of them in our neighborhood so I would know for future reference.

The gas lines are all 4 feet deep or more, so no issues there.

Water and sewer lines would take one heck of a core to damage them......:laugh: (5 feet or more)

The Utility marker who seems to hate his job the most is the one who marks the Internet, Phone and Cable TV connections. Watching him mark them, and having spoken with him, I stay 2 feet away from each side of his markings on all cables as he walks and throws the flags down like he would really rather be anywhere else doing anything else.......:unknown:

On every lawn I have aerated, the cables are visible at least somewhere on the surface of the lawns....The people who were contracted to bury them I watched use a flat shovel to barely part the sod and stuff the cables into the ground with their foot. I would bet the average cable is LESS THAN 3" deep in our neighborhood........
 
#11 ·
I'm also with the green with envy crowd as I choked at the price of a 3-point. I fell into a great deal on a walk behind and with the number of trees I have to go around, it works out pretty good for me and it doesn't take much "man-handling". I paid $600 for it on Craig's List about 8 years ago.

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#12 ·
Thanks for all the input guys. Much appreciated. Me neighbors do actually pay me to aerate their yard. Not near as much as Sully, but 50 bucks here and there and a few cases a beer is a win for me:yahoo:

I think I'm gonna keep looking around and see if I can get something built a little heavier than what I was looking at. Oh, and the reason for the 48" is some of my neighbors have fences with gates. Last time I had a 60" model I could get in the backyard of two of the guys. I don't mind a little more tractor seat time if it allows for a little bit better maneuverability.

If anyone knows for a decent model around 1K let me know. I'm not the best at searching the interwebs:banghead:
 
#13 ·
I bought the model in your original post, but I got the 60" from Northern Tool. I picked it up Saturday and I've spent a few hours here and there since making it Quick-hitch compatible. Last night, I finally got that worked out using items bought at Tractor Supply and I was able to take it around the yard for a few minutes. It was muddy, I didn't add any weight so it wasn't a real test of the aerator, just the connection (quick-hitch compatibility I mentioned).

I'm going to put together a more detailed review and instruction about my quick-hitch compatibilty when I get chance.
 
#15 ·
I still haven't put weight on it and used it, but I took some pictures last night and here's the modifications made for the quick hitch.

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#16 ·
Looks like a nice unit. Congrats. Is the iMatch that far offset on their three point set up? Looks like you needed a bit of engineering.
 
#17 ·
Enginneering might be a little overstated, but I'll take inginuity or just plain old "figurin' out."

Yea, the bottom two hooks on the iMatch are impossible to get in both thier mounting points and if you try to put the top-hook in you can't get either of the two bottom points in. Even as I have it, the left and top point are prett far to the left on the links.

I contimplated even bothering with it since I'm probably only going to aerate my lawn twice a year, but I wanted to make it easier to move and get out of the way. The only time my i-Match comes off the tractor is when I attach the backhoe and even then I leave the arms attached to the i-Match.
 
#18 ·
#23 ·
On the topic of safe Aerating, Read this TRUE STORY.......

Over time when the ground settles, the plastic or metal surface "covers" the utility companies install in neighborhoods will start to lean as they settle into the ground. I was trimming with my Lawn Boy mower around the square metal boxes which house the electrical service wire from the house and also the electrical supply line from the transformer.

Inside these electrical service covers, there are two thick electrical cables sticking straight up in the air and are joined with a sandwiched metal plate with two bolts through it, to make the electrical power supply connection. When I was mowing around the "leaning box", I bumped the box with the wheel of the Lawn Boy push mower and there was a big series of sparks and it caught the grass on fire around the box. Then, the fuse in the transformer popped and the neighborhood went dark. (Makes you real popular with the neighbors when it's 95 degrees out and it's supper time when you knock out the entire neighborhood's electrical service..:laugh:..)

I called AEP and when the service truck came out, I told the guy what happened. He opened the metal box I had struck and since the box had tipped to probably a 20 degree angle as the ground settled and the two large electrical cables had not moved, instead of the two cables being safely in the center of the metal box, they were right up against it since the metal cover had moved as it was now leaning......Now that's a tragedy waiting to happen. Had I bumped the metal "Leaning Housing" with the Magnesium deck on the Lawn Boy mower, while hanging onto the metal handle with the plastic grip, that very well could have made the lawn mower deck part of that circuit and been the end of me. :banghead:

Before the guy replaced the fuse in the transformer, he reached into the leaning cover with the top opened and bent the cables away from the metal housing a few inches. Then he replaced the fuse, power was restored and away they went. To this day, several years later, that cover is still leaning, probably more so.......Now it's got bushes grown up around it so I don't mow near it anymore. In fact, I killed the grass and installed landscape gravel around the bushes and the utility covers so we wouldn't have to get near them when mowing........

What happened with that electrical service cover is THE VERY FIRST THOUGHT which goes through my mind when I see little kids playing around the transformers or those utility service covers.

I actually watched a neighbor lady stand her 2 year old ON TOP OF the transformer one day, when a group of neighborhood women were standing around under the street light talking. I went out there and told her what that was and they should NEVER touch it, let alone use it as a resting place for their kids.....She was then real indignant that it wasn't marked with better warning labels......Other than the warning labels already on it......KEEP AWAY HIGH VOLTAGE. ELECTRICAL SHOCK DANGER:dunno:

So be very careful around all surface utilities and these "covers" as you never know when one just might be hot.....
 
#30 ·
If you want a real Aerator this what it looks like. This ain't no dog turder or spiker. View attachment 650580 https://youtu.be/XNrSgBUik80
Yea, I'd like one, but from what I can tell its around $3,000, If this were my business I'd get one. If I could rent one around here I'd probably do that, but I'll have to make due with what I bought.
 
#28 ·
I saw a video from the manufacturer of that unit just a couple of days ago. Their claim is that it's great for football/baseball/etc. fields because you can play on the field immediately without having to deal with the plugs. And, you can aerate during the playing season since there are no plugs. It certainly is an interesting approach. I wonder how much of that vibration is transferred to the tractor?

I'm not a turf expert (or an expert on much else for that matter! :laugh:), but I have to wonder about this. Part of the reason for aerating is to remove compaction in the turf as well as opening up a way for nutrients and oxygen to get to the roots. Wouldn't that vibrating spike compress the dirt in the hole? You're not removing any dirt from the hole, you're displacing it around the sides (and maybe the bottom). Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of aerating?
:unknown:
 
#29 ·
They say that the vibration fractures the ground, thus reducing compaction. :unknown: I'm no scientist, and I stayed home last night so I don't even have Holiday Inn Express knowledge.

However, the advantage of the core aerator with all those plugs is it puts that material on top, this helps the decomposition of the thatch, improves biomass transfer, and even helps level the ground to some extent.
If you are somewhere that plugs can't be left to dissolve on their own, then the aerovator is a good option, better than nothing, and probably better than just a plain spike. But there are advantages to both.
 
#35 · (Edited)
I look at this a little differently. You will definitely spend money for a rental a couple of times each year. But purchasing a piece of equipment like this is a capital investment. Your "expense" will be how much it depreciates each year. If you take care of it, it will be worth quite a bit when you eventually sell it. The question I ask myself is whether the average depreciation will be less than the annual rental cost. This made my decision pretty easy: I bought an Everything Attachments $1800 aerator. I've been very happy with it. You'll also avoid the hassles of scheduling a rental unit. You can use it anytime it's convenient for you. That's also worth something to me.

I must aerate right after a significant rain to get holes of a worthwhile depth. You may find that it will be difficult to time that with the rental company, since that's when everyone else would reasonably want an aerator.
 
#34 ·
So last year I rented a 3 point aerator
I just read through posts to date,and maybe I missed this.

Would you mind letting me know how much it costs for you to rent the aerator? Thanks.
 
#37 ·
I believe when I rented one last year it was 125 dollars for the day. I picked it up early Saturday and returned it early Monday. Factor in the fuel and time for a 45 minute drive there and back since. Very few rental places actually have the 3 point aerator. Alot of them have the small tow behind versions. Closest rental I could find with one was 45 minutes one way.
 
#36 ·
Years ago I bought a Woods PL48 three point hitch aerator. At the time it was around $1800. It is very heavy duty. I had two concrete slabs poured for it that weighed 160# each. I used it on a 2720 and aerated mine and my neighbors yards (about 5 total). It was a great unit and at the time well worth the money. After selling our house and "downsizing, I sold the unit and tractor. Big mistake. Yesterday I aerated with a tow behind rental unit towed behind my 1025r. It worked OK, but not as good as my old Woods. However rental was $35 a day. For me the rental option works as I do not have to store it, and I figure I can aerate twice a year for 25 years before I get to the $1800 mark..
 
#38 ·
So the aerator came shipped directly to the TSC store, since I didnt want to opt to try and find a delivery time frame from a delivery truck. Went to TSC and they loaded it in the back of the truck with their forklift. Took it home and unloaded with the FEL, Kenny's hooks, and a few straps. Very easy. It was boxed up very well to prevent damage from shipping. I had to break out the old crowbar to break down the box. Once i got it opened up it really didn't take much for assembly.
Iron Vehicle Metal

As you can see, 2 tines on every roller came without the bottom bolt attached, probably for packaging reasons. While it was teadious to remove and reinstall the bolts for the tines, it was nothing a few cold beverages of choice couldn't get me through.
Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Wheel Automotive exterior

Once that was done, attaching the 3 point arms and the stands took no time at all. Very easy assembly and it all went together smoothly.

Now for my two gripes........I went to grease all the fittings on the unit and noticed 3 of the fittings weren't completely welded all the way around. Squirt grease in them, and a pin hole left by the master welder at the assembly facility allowed it to all come right back out.
Tire Suspension Suspension part Auto part Vehicle


Break out the grinder and welder and an hr later we were back in business. The only other thing that really kind had me disappointed, was the expanded metal that was welded in the carrier section to allow for more weight to be added. Its not welded it enough spots and seems a bit flimsy. Not a huge deal as I havent done anything with it and probably had close to 300 additional lbs on it during its initial use, but its just not built to my satisfaction, which I should have expected when paying half the price for the piece of equipment as opposed to others people have bought. I already have ideas that will have to wait for winter to fix this and strengthen it.

I built 2 forms to fit in the outer carrier pockets and poured 2 bags of concrete in each and installed handles in the concrete for easy removal (nothing pretty but if any one wants pictures I can surely take them). It works well and is easy enough to remove the huge concrete slabs now. I used it and it seemed to work great. I easily pulled 2.5-3" plugs all through my yard and various neighbors yards. Never missed a beat. As far as functionality, it works great for what i need it to do and stores away when not in use very easily. The positive, I've done 5 neighbors yards (each 1/2 ac) plus my own (2 ac), so the things has basically paid for its self in one season of use.

So in my personal opinion, there is no reason I wouldn't recommend this for someone to use for that once or twice a season aeration that people are looking to do. It works great for what I need it to do and has met my expectations. Any questions, feel free to shoot.
 
#39 ·
So the aerator came shipped directly to the TSC store, since I didnt want to opt to try and find a delivery time frame from a delivery truck. Went to TSC and they loaded it in the back of the truck with their forklift. Took it home and unloaded with the FEL, Kenny's hooks, and a few straps. Very easy. It was boxed up very well to prevent damage from shipping. I had to break out the old crowbar to break down the box. Once i got it opened up it really didn't take much for assembly.
View attachment 651714
As you can see, 2 tines on every roller came without the bottom bolt attached, probably for packaging reasons. While it was teadious to remove and reinstall the bolts for the tines, it was nothing a few cold beverages of choice couldn't get me through.
View attachment 651716
Once that was done, attaching the 3 point arms and the stands took no time at all. Very easy assembly and it all went together smoothly.

Now for my two gripes........I went to grease all the fittings on the unit and noticed 3 of the fittings weren't completely welded all the way around. Squirt grease in them, and a pin hole left by the master welder at the assembly facility allowed it to all come right back out.
View attachment 651718

Break out the grinder and welder and an hr later we were back in business. The only other thing that really kind had me disappointed, was the expanded metal that was welded in the carrier section to allow for more weight to be added. Its not welded it enough spots and seems a bit flimsy. Not a huge deal as I havent done anything with it and probably had close to 300 additional lbs on it during its initial use, but its just not built to my satisfaction, which I should have expected when paying half the price for the piece of equipment as opposed to others people have bought. I already have ideas that will have to wait for winter to fix this and strengthen it.

I built 2 forms to fit in the outer carrier pockets and poured 2 bags of concrete in each and installed handles in the concrete for easy removal (nothing pretty but if any one wants pictures I can surely take them). It works well and is easy enough to remove the huge concrete slabs now. I used it and it seemed to work great. I easily pulled 2.5-3" plugs all through my yard and various neighbors yards. Never missed a beat. As far as functionality, it works great for what i need it to do and stores away when not in use very easily. The positive, I've done 5 neighbors yards (each 1/2 ac) plus my own (2 ac), so the things has basically paid for its self in one season of use.

So in my personal opinion, there is no reason I wouldn't recommend this for someone to use for that once or twice a season aeration that people are looking to do. It works great for what I need it to do and has met my expectations. Any questions, feel free to shoot.
The expanded metal mesh on my Landpride aerator bent when I put weight on it. I cut pieces of 2x6 boards to fit over the mesh and then throw my weights on.

I’m betting I paid more for the Landpride than yours cost so don’t feel too bad about the mesh.


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#41 ·
Actually, having independent rotors will not permit you to turn with a 3 point aerator.

If you have a 3 point aerator, solid drum or independent rotors, you cannot make turns with them. Subtle smooth turns yes, but no turns other than very subtle turns over a long distance. If you do, the aerator will be forced sideways which will tear out soil.

Like any ground engaging 3 point implement, e.g. roto-tiller, mould board plough, aerator, ripper/middle buster, etc., once it is sunk into the ground, turning isn't an option.
 
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