17P cart tongue conversion-pin to ball
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Thread: 17P cart tongue conversion-pin to ball

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    17P cart tongue conversion-pin to ball

    I have a 17P cart that has the small pin for connection to the tow unit (my X748 or gator).

    I have a 1 7/8” ball as my main connection point on the X748 that blocks out the pin receiver/draw bar area. The gator only has a 2” receiver.
    You can see in the photo where I’ve cheated to make the pin work on the gator but I’d rather have a ball connection.

    Has anyone converted a cart to accept a ball connection vs pin?
    I have a tongue coupler attachement but the holes don’t remotely line up.

    Recommendations? Thanks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3FDF6B4F-901C-4062-B122-65D45EE55DFC.jpeg   A5F3E03B-2B50-4BF0-96EA-B27DD3E30FF8.jpeg  
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    Boonie's Avatar
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    Remove the off-set piece from the top, then lay the coupler over the top. You'll end up cutting some of the tongue (top) off to get the fastening holes to bolt through the tongue. Looking, at minimum you'll have to cut the top triangle area off. More depending if the side bolts can both bolt through the sides. You might want to strengthen the sides for bolting. Ideally a short piece of channel iron for rigidity.
    Last edited by Boonie; 10-11-2018 at 05:23 PM.
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    I did this to standardize my 18 cart.
    I don't think the taper on mine was as long as yours.
    I drilled for the side holes and used cut pieces of pipe as spacers in the hollow area and ran the bolts through them.
    Another member on here linked the adapter for me and I bought the correct one for my width.
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    I added a four foot extension to the tongue of my 10 cubic foot cart by bolting a new piece inside the channel. You should be be able to add a shorter extension that mates with the ball assembly. I used a yellow pine 2x4, but you could do the same with a steel channel or box beam. (There's a photo at the "Accessories" link below.)
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    Did this on a 10P cart

    I made the change you are proposing on a 10P cart. I bought a Curt coupler. After removing the top piece on the tongue, I was amazed to see that the holes in the coupler lined up with the holes on the tongue. Not perfectly, but enough to get the bolts in and have the pieces sit flush.

    The tongue on the 10P sits low when it's level. So I had to get a hitch adapter that lowered the ball 5 1/4 inches. I find the coupler much easier to use than the pin setup.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    North585 (10-11-2018)

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    There was another thread about this a few months back...it might have been started by me I can't even remember.

    Should be as easy as going to tractor supply and bolting the new unit on in place of the pin.

    I would suggest looking at the drawbar where the axle passes through it. I found out first hand that they build it very weak and don't reinforce it at all. I had mine snap on me.
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    The 17AT cart already has that on it.
    Oddly enough, the tongue is the same as the other, in that I can remove the current ball type hitch and bolt on the Z shaped top piece and have a "normal" hitch attachment.

    Ill look at the hitch and see if it has a part number. You should be able to find one that easily slides over the top of the current hitch.
    Mine does not appear any different on that end than the standard 17P hitch, under my current setup.
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    Quote Originally Posted by keane View Post
    I made the change you are proposing on a 10P cart. I bought a Curt coupler. After removing the top piece on the tongue, I was amazed to see that the holes in the coupler lined up with the holes on the tongue. Not perfectly, but enough to get the bolts in and have the pieces sit flush.

    The tongue on the 10P sits low when it's level. So I had to get a hitch adapter that lowered the ball 5 1/4 inches. I find the coupler much easier to use than the pin setup.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2018-10-11 18.55.03.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	1.16 MB 
ID:	652596
    I assume you use your ball on your three point hitch just as I do.
    My beam on my cart is also low to the ground when level and if I go over larger changes of grade I have to raise and lower the hitch as I travel to prevent gouging the ground with the drawbar.
    One of these days I will get off my lazy butt and create a Z in the bar just before the dump release lever and get the forward part of the drawbar maybe 8 inches higher.

    I also need to construct some expanded metal risers for the top rails of my cart for "fun with leaves" time in the fall.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff B View Post
    I assume you use your ball on your three point hitch just as I do.
    My beam on my cart is also low to the ground when level and if I go over larger changes of grade I have to raise and lower the hitch as I travel to prevent gouging the ground with the drawbar.
    One of these days I will get off my lazy butt and create a Z in the bar just before the dump release lever and get the forward part of the drawbar maybe 8 inches higher.

    I also need to construct some expanded metal risers for the top rails of my cart for "fun with leaves" time in the fall.
    My property is pretty flat. If I had any decent grades, I'd have to look at a higher cart than the 10P.

    How I attach the cart at the back depends on how the tractor is currently configured. If the 3 point is not installed, I just plug the hitch adapter with the ball right into the Heavy Hitch rear receiver and connect the cart to it. If the 3 point is on (with the Quickhitch) but no ballast is needed, I put an 18" extender into the receiver and the hitch adapter into that. This gets the ball clear of the quickhitch. I also have the bar for the quick hitch, but I have to move the ball to it. If the ballast weight rack is loaded, I use the 2" receiver on that for the hitch adapter. As you note, this way its adjustable.

    Keane
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    Quote Originally Posted by nastorino View Post
    There was another thread about this a few months back...it might have been started by me I can't even remember.

    Should be as easy as going to tractor supply and bolting the new unit on in place of the pin.

    I would suggest looking at the drawbar where the axle passes through it. I found out first hand that they build it very weak and don't reinforce it at all. I had mine snap on me.
    Thanks Nastorino.
    I did search to find past threads but didn’t find yours. I have found it, and the info is great. Thanks!
    nastorino likes this.
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    X748 w/ 62C & 54C deck, 47" blower w/quick hitch
    2025R w/Imatch, R120, RC2048, 60D w/ind. lift, 54" blade w/quick hitch, Frontier grapple
    590M w/winch, maxxis, roof

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