New 1025r with 54" Blower and steel impeller - won't stop breaking shear pins.
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Thread: New 1025r with 54" Blower and steel impeller - won't stop breaking shear pins.

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    New 1025r with 54" Blower and steel impeller - won't stop breaking shear pins.

    All. My brother recently purchased a new 1025r with a 54 inch blower. I suggested he have a steel impeller installed as I have owned two of the blowers and both have had the steel impeller. I find that it greatly improves the implement.

    The first blower he had constantly made loud noises and broke shear pins. He went through 10-12 before the dealership was able to come pick it up around the holidays. They found nothing wrong. He looked at my current blower on a 2032r and my old machine (1023e) that my father now owns and determined that the impeller was improperly installed and was grinding/hitting against the actual frame of the blower. The dealership was good; got it in to look at a couple days after and warranteed an entire new unit and impeller.

    The new one is doing the same thing. He looked again at the impeller and it appears to be appropriately installed and isn't making contact anywhere on the blower frame. The dealership looked at it and put it into heavier snow and it performed fine. Back at his house it started popping pins again. They called Deere and relayed that the machine needs to be at idle when the PTO is engaged and not at full power.

    All this to say that it is still breaking pins. I installed the impeller on my 1023e when I owned it; I am absolutely not a mechanic. My dad assisted who is very mechanically inclined but again not mechanics. Never had an issue. My 2032r had it installed from a different dealer I purchased it from and I have had zero issues. I even found my shear pin in the impeller to be loose when he started having problems and I examined mine.


    For clarity the pin that keeps breaking is the pin/bolt on the shaft with the impeller. The auger pins have been fine.

    Anyone experience something similar or have any insight on this?

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    martincom's Avatar
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    When the blower is off the tractor, can you rotate the driveshaft by hand freely and without any binding?
    2017 1025R TLB & 2017 1025R FEL
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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    When the blower is off the tractor, can you rotate the driveshaft by hand freely and without any binding?


    Yes. No binding, sticking, etc. With the drive shaft and blower hooked up, and the selector for the pto on rear only, the whole assembly turns by hand with no issue as well.

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtlmbrjack View Post
    Yes. No binding, sticking, etc. With the drive shaft and blower hooked up, and the selector for the pto on rear only, the whole assembly turns by hand with no issue as well.
    Just to confirm... the blower currently has the steel or plastic impeller?

    Is the chain properly adjusted with no excessively loose or tight spots (thanks to JD's out of round sprockets)?

    Does the impeller have excessive rotational play on the center shaft? The plastic impellers tended to have a bit more play due to the fitment of the large hex drive area but the steel impellers should have minimal rotational play.

    Does it make any unusual noises when run at full PTO RPM? My 54" blower housing will wobble a little bit when it's lifted off the ground slightly and run at full PTO RPM but otherwise it runs very quiet.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    The blower has the steel impeller currently. The chain is adjusted appropriately. Nothing out of the ordinary while it’s operating. The impeller has slight rotational play; much less than my plastic one used to because of that stupid hex drive. I believe it is slightly noisier than my current machine when full out. My personal 54 wobbles when lifted to max height which I don’t do for obvious reasons. When his turns on it is smooth and nothing sounds out of order.
    Sportshot2 likes this.

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    IndianaJim's Avatar
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    Has anyone checked to be sure the correct bolts are being used?
    Jim B.

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    dombougie's Avatar
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    Would it be terrible to put in a solid bolt? My plastic impeller has one and I have never had any issues with atleast 100hrs on the blower alone. I do have shear bolts on the auger as they’d be the first to hit anything. I clear out my trailer parking stalls occasionally and have found a missed 6x6 or 4x4 chunk we use for wheel chalks. Breaks the auger bolts. I have a gravel drive and gravel path to the rear of my property that I Plow or blow. I’ve picked up and thrown some baseball sized rocks and have never had issues with the plastic impeller in any way.

    Even if you sucked up a piece of rebar I’m sure the auger would shear and if the steel impeller hit it would probably break a link in the chain before damaging anything else. And certainly wouldn’t damage the tractor
    John Deere 1025R, Frontier RB2060 Rear blade, JD 647 Tiller, JD Quick hitch 60HD" Broom, 54" Blade with clip on extensions, 54" Blower, BX42 Wood chipper, Homemade pallet forks, 60" Snow pusher, Land plane. Lots of other cool things.

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    DO NOT USE A SOLID BOLT Grade 8

    You are asking for trouble,, maybe not this year or next year but it will happen and it will COST you big time.

    USE SHEAR Bolts// Grade 5
    Last edited by etcallhome; 12-19-2018 at 10:00 PM.
    Gene

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dombougie View Post
    Would it be terrible to put in a solid bolt? My plastic impeller has one and I have never had any issues with atleast 100hrs on the blower alone. I do have shear bolts on the auger as they’d be the first to hit anything. I clear out my trailer parking stalls occasionally and have found a missed 6x6 or 4x4 chunk we use for wheel chalks. Breaks the auger bolts. I have a gravel drive and gravel path to the rear of my property that I Plow or blow. I’ve picked up and thrown some baseball sized rocks and have never had issues with the plastic impeller in any way.

    Even if you sucked up a piece of rebar I’m sure the auger would shear and if the steel impeller hit it would probably break a link in the chain before damaging anything else. And certainly wouldn’t damage the tractor
    I'm not sure what you mean? The factory shear bolts are Grade-5 solid bolts.

    Part Number: 19H1914
    Part Price: 0.48 USD Each
    On Hand: 0 Check Other Stores
    Description: Cap Screw - SCREW, HEX HEAD

    Specification
    Weight: 0.02 LBS 0.01 Kg
    Diameter 0.250 IN
    Thread UNC2A
    Length 1.000 IN
    Thread Length 0.875 IN
    Width Across Flats 0.438 IN
    Head Height 0.163 IN
    Material Grade A17D
    Finish B

    NOTE:
    A17D Has the strength of SAE Grade 5

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 19H1914.jpg  
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dombougie View Post
    Even if you sucked up a piece of rebar I’m sure the auger would shear and if the steel impeller hit it would probably break a link in the chain before damaging anything else. And certainly wouldn’t damage the tractor
    While I don't advocate using the incorrect shear bolts, the most fragile part of this entire snow blower is the front auger gear drive (and JD doesn't sell any parts for it). It's sole purpose is to drive the auger. If the auger shear bolts do not break upon impacting an obstacle, gear box damage is almost certain to result. The impeller on other hand, is driven directly by the chain and sprocket which in turn is driven by the drive shaft.

    If the impeller (steel) were to impact an object and not break the shear bolt, the most likely result would be the highlighted part below would break or shear off its key. This shear adapter plate is constructed of fairly lightweight material and there have been reports of it splitting in half even under normal use. The second likely thing to happen if an obstruction occurs is the chain would break as dombougie suggested. If using the plastic impeller and hitting something solid they have a tendency to just fracture and round off the plastic hex portion on the front of the impeller which then allows it to spin freely.

    Again, I'm not advocating using anything other than the factory Grade-5 bolt but clearly it can be seen that the auger shear bolts are much more critical than the shear bolt on the impeller.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails impeller_drive.jpg  
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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