Best rubber/UHMW plow blade replacement?
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    CDaveP's Avatar
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    Best rubber/UHMW plow blade replacement?

    I just got a 60" JD plow blade, looking for a rubber/UHMW replacement blade for it. I notice Artillian has some, but only 54" length.

    Who and what material would be the way to go? I plow the cement pad, sidewalks on the house, and 1/4 mile gravel driveway.

    Thanks
    Dave
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    I went with urethane for my 366 blade, purchased from here:

    Polyurethane Snow Plow Blades and Wings | Secure Online Ordering
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    In one of our threads ( don’t know where) there is a link to a place that sell 1” Plus thick conveyor belt. May wear faster but much cheaper and holes are pre drilled.
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    Quote Originally Posted by fdmars View Post
    In one of our threads ( don’t know where) there is a link to a place that sell 1” Plus thick conveyor belt. May wear faster but much cheaper and holes are pre drilled.

    This place?

    Rubber Wear Strip
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    I went with a UHMW blade for my rear blade for snow removal. I purchased from United States Plastic Corp https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...3217&catid=868 . Only down side to ordering from them is you have to order in 5' or 10' foot lengths and drill your own holes. They will cut the size you need and you just get the leftover part. I had them cut the 10' piece to 72" and then was left with a 48" piece. Not an issue because i have plans to use that for a chainsaw carrier. Main reason i went with them was to keep my color coordination in check and i needed a piece to be 6" wide which was the same size as the stock steel cutting edge. They have many sizes to choose from.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mike
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    Like many others here, I used a "stall mat" from Tractor Supply. $40 for enough mat to make 8 wear strips.

    I used it for the first time this weekend. Plowed everything 3 times during the snow event. My blacktop driveway is 10' wide and 342' long. I also have a concrete pad in front of my garage. It's 30'x80'. I can't really see any major wear on the rubber strip. It worked great, just like a squeegee.

    The stall mat cuts with a sharp utility knife. I drew a line on the mat with a Sharpie and then freehanded the cut. Took about three passes to go all the way through. For the holes, I laid the steel cutting edge on top of the mat, marked the holes with the Sharpie and then used a 3/8" drill bit. No problemo! I did have to buy new, longer carriage bolts to accommodate the thickness of the stall mat. When I have to flip it due to wear, I figure it will be about a 5 minute job. I also cut and drilled 3 extra strips so if I have to swap the rubber multiple times during the season (which I doubt), I won't have to be in my unheated garage measuring, drilling, shivering, cussing, etc.
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    Yes thanks CP that’s it
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    Should you have any questions about the material I posted below, don't hesitate to send me a PM and I will respond and then come back and post on this thread as well. I don't always get back to the threads where I have posted, so I don't want someone who does post a question here to think I am ignoring them if I don't provide a timely response.

    I just use the local Belt and Hose supplier, which is only 1.5 miles down the road. I get this material in 8' lengths and I don't recall the exact price, but it's less than $30. I am going to replace it tomorrow, but I got over 1,000 driveway plows out of it during the last year and through today. I also plow private asphalt roads which are 35' wide and I plow at least 800 feet of the road each time it snows, so I got a lot of wear out of it. Mine could still be used, but it's time as I have torn the end slightly plus it's starting to curl under from the plow weight sitting on it.

    Plow Edge Squeegee Material Suggestions

    If you are getting material on your own to do this, here are my suggestions;

    1. No less than 3.5" tall as you want at least 2" below the blade edge and enough material under the strap to hold it securely and not tear.

    2. No less than 1/2" "thick" as it might tear with down pressure if its not a belt type product.

    3. Personally, I tried the belt type product and like the smooth edge material better. The belt material seemed to "roll and bend" and it flexed too easily with down pressure. The belt tended to wear less even for some reason and it had threads or something else hanging off of it as it wore which looked like it needed a shave...

    4. Note, I use baler belt for my plow top flap, pictured below, and that seems to have the ideal amount of flex for the top flap, BUT only when I doubled it up and riveted the two strips together. Otherwise, in the single strip, the snow would push the flap straight up and act like a snow pusher. That's not why it's 0n the plow. It's designed to roll snow off the end of the plow when angled.

    I want the snow to roll off the end of the plow, ideally higher than the plow blade height. It does this when I am plowing down the road in high gear at nearly WOT. It's the perfect way to throw the snow as far onto the bank as possible when plowing with the blade angled.

    My plow's top flap is made of baler belts material I bought at TSC. The plow top flap is also an outstanding accompaniment to your plow and something every plow should have. Especially, the 54" plows as they are narrow enough that without the top flap, the material spills over the top of the plow onto the hitch. Then it can cause ice issues which impede the angling of the plow and can even damage the angle cylinder hydraulic line and coupling and cause hydraulic leaks. The top flap for the plow makes it work so much better. It increases plow volume, plowing efficiency, etc.

    If you want any dimensions for a top flap, I can measure mine and post them. You will need to drill the top edge of the plow to secure it which isn't difficult if you have good drill bits. If you add a top flap, I suggest you also add the plow markers as once the top flap is on, you can't see the top of the plow exactly as before so the plow markers help you position the plow closer to the doors for back dragging, etc. Also, the top flap provides a buffer to help preventing getting the plow blade too close to overhead door, etc. So the top flap and the markers really are very helpful.

    5. It's really very helpful to have the rubber edge extended past each end of the blade about 3" to 4", but no more than that.So if you are cutting it for a 60" blade, make it 66" or 68" long and allow 3" or 4" on each end.

    6. Don't use More than 3" or 4" over hang on each end and it can result in the rubber tearing when you apply too much down pressure when back dragging without support to hold the extensions. Having this extension helps back drag from door openings and the rubber sticking out prevents you from having the steel blade end up against the wooden door jamb, etc. It cleans the door opening better and won't damage anything.

    7. Use your "strap" or even the steel blade you remove as the template for drilling the new material.

    8. Over drill the size of the hole by one or two drill sizes you actually need in the rubber as some material has a tendency to expand when drilling it and then contract and you can't get the bolt through it easily if you drill the exact same size as the bolt.

    Hardware Suggestions

    A. Use soft bolts so you can break them off when replacing them. The threads and the nuts will be corroded anyways so don't waste your time trying to take them apart to reuse them. Break them off, throw them out and use new hardware. It's much quicker.

    B. I never use carriage bolts as they can spin and you can't get a hold of them to remove them easily. I used to use carriage bolts as the plow was cut out to hold them, but I fought with too many over the years and never again. Plus not many people keep extra carriage bolts in their bolt bins which meant a trip to the hardware store.

    C. Have the excess bolt protrude on the front of the plow, not the back of the plow, as it can wear the bolt and make them very tough to remove. As you compress the rubber, you need some excess to hold it correctly. Just use bolts which will be easy to snap off to replace them. I just use my impact wrench and snap each bolt off and then drop the strap and edge much easier and faster.

    D. Use large diameter or even fender washers to spread the load of the bolt, on both ends of the bolt if needed when assembling.

    E. Always use NYLOCK nuts to secure them and they won't come apart. Have the nuts on the FRONT of the plow where the extra bolt length is as well, as they can get worn depending upon plow angle,etc and be tough to get a socket or wrench on.

    F. You don't need massive diameter bolts to hold the strap and rubber edge. My plow uses 5/16th's bolts to hold the strap and squeegee. I specifically used this size instead of something larger so they would be easier to get off each time. It's tough to snap off a 1/2" bolt to replace them and you want the smallest size which will hold if you have to chisel them off or cut them off with a heat wrench, etc.

    G. If you don't have NYLOCK nuts, double nut them and use lock washers. But I would suggest picking up a box of NYLOCKS at the hardware to fit your plow bolts.

    H. There is something about NYLOCK bolts which have been on for awhile if you run them on and off fast with an impact, it tends to screw up the nut threads, which is another reason why I just plan on new hardware each time I replace the edge.

    Regarding the Edge Wear, how long should the rubber edge last?

    If you are using material either designed for the edge or material like I have pictured, it should last a very long time. In fact, unless you use way too much down pressure on the plow, it should last many years. I always have a spare edge on hand and in fact, I take the edge I am getting ready to install with me to the rubber place and show them the material and tell them I need either 8' or 16' of it (my plow is 87" wide plus 4" of overhang on each end makes it 95" long which I just buy 96").

    Since I plow for others in my neighborhood, I don't want to be down waiting for something which Is why I always have the spare squeegee on hand. I once caught a new rubber edge just shortly after I installed it, on a metal landscape material spike on the edge of the driveway and damaged it where it was leaving this little trail of snow from the edge being "nicked" about 1/2". I didn't like the little line of snow in the same spot so I replaced it. Otherwise, I usually get 1,000 driveway plows or more out of each edge (22 to 24 driveways and last year I plowed each driveway 45 times, which comes right up to the 1,000 driveway total number, not including the private road plowed).

    Final thoughts

    - If you are using so much down pressure you are noticing wear on your edge the first few months of use, you likely have too much down pressure or too soft a material.

    - You want the rubber edge material to flex slightly. One of the great advantages of using the rubber plow squeegee is pushing stone and gravel off the lawn and back where it belongs in the spring. If done carefully, it doesn't harm the grass and also saves you a lot of time raking gravel.

    - I personally don't use plow shoes and they are no longer even on my plow. The downside is there is no way to stand your plow up without the shoes and also, you want to store the plow for the summer as described below to get the most life out of your plow edge.

    - I also don't use the float control on the loader. I watch how much pressure I am putting down on the edge and adjust accordingly. Once you get used to this, its a muscle memory and easily repeated.


    - I wouldn't plow with any other edge on my plow. It gets the pavement nice and clean and allows the sun to keep the ice, etc. off the surface.

    - When I store my plow in the spring, I lay it face down so the weight isn't on the edge all spring, summer and fall. Or if you have plow shoes. extend the shoes down so the plow is resting on the shoes and not the plow edge as it will deform it over time.



    Then plow away..............





    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20171208_112607210.jpg  
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    CDaveP's Avatar
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    Thank You everyone. Some very good info here.

    I know there are some mining operations around here, need to look around. TSC just a ways down the road as well. Not too much for snow around here this year so far, may become a summer project.

    Dave
    SulleyBear likes this.
    2018 1025R FEL, filled tires, Imatch hitch, 54" snow blower, 60" front blade.

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