Rear Blade Height Adjustment
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    FredSG's Avatar
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    Rear Blade Height Adjustment

    Hello,

    Need some guidance. Need some ideas on what to do.

    I seem to remember that I was able to raise the rear blade on my 4310 much higher than I seem to be able to do it now. Can someone tell me which parts of the rear of my 4310 would actually help to increase the height I am able to get out of my 4310. I keep thinking the "top link" is my problem, but not sure what adjustment I need to do to it to get more height for my rear blade.

    Any one with ideas or suggestions, I'd appreciate your help.

    FredSG

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    Quote Originally Posted by FredSG View Post
    Hello,

    Need some guidance. Need some ideas on what to do.

    I seem to remember that I was able to raise the rear blade on my 4310 much higher than I seem to be able to do it now. Can someone tell me which parts of the rear of my 4310 would actually help to increase the height I am able to get out of my 4310. I keep thinking the "top link" is my problem, but not sure what adjustment I need to do to it to get more height for my rear blade.

    Any one with ideas or suggestions, I'd appreciate your help.

    FredSG
    Simply shorten your top link. Problem solved. This will, however, change the angle of your blade.
    Last edited by jdforever; 01-30-2019 at 02:12 PM.
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    FredSG's Avatar
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    How do I shorten the top link? Do I need to disconnect it from the blade altogether? When you write shorten the top link which way do I turn it . . . I've fiddled with it with no real change. Right now the outside tube is screwed down to the very bottom of the top link or that section closest to the body of the tractor.

    FredSG

    Quote Originally Posted by jdforever View Post
    Simply shorten your top link. Problem solved. This will, however, change the angle of your blade.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FredSG View Post
    How do I shorten the top link? Do I need to disconnect it from the blade altogether? When you write shorten the top link which way do I turn it . . . I've fiddled with it with no real change. Right now the outside tube is screwed down to the very bottom of the top link or that section closest to the body of the tractor.
    Can you post a picture?

    Normally, you loosen the jam nuts and turn the main section one way to lengthen and the other way to shorten. Each end has reverse threads so as you turn the main section it will thread-out or thread-in the outer eye-sections.

    If your top-link is shortened all the way until your two eyelets touch the main body and it is still too long, you may need to get a shorter top-link.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails top-link2.jpg
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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    SRG
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    Your manually adjustable top link consists of 3 pieces. 2 externally (males) threaded end links, and 1 internally (female) threaded center section.
    That female 'tube' should thread onto both male top link ends at the same time/rate, so that they turn in or out equally. So shortening the top link will have both male ends, tractor side and attachment side, threaded all the way into the 'tube' as far as they can possibly go. By doing so, your top link has become shorter, you have shortened the top link. To fully extend the top link, you turn that center piece (or tube as you called it), the opposite direction and watch both ends extend out from the tube, that would be extending your top link, or lengthening your top link. You can do this while the blade is attached to the machine.
    If you do this while it is not attached, you need to hold both male ends stationary as you turn the center section, so they remain equal to each other, in regards to how much they thread in or out of the female center section.

    And you can adjuste anywhere in between fully extended or fully collapsed (shortened), for what ever angle you may need.
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    1997 JD 870 (28hp Yanmar), FWA, R1's, 300x loader, 61" bucket, 42" Titan forks, Pat's Easy Change.
    [72" KK box blade, 72" KK landscape rake, 72" Titan pine straw rake, 72" Express Steel snow pusher{XP24}, 60" KK tiller, 60" rotary cutter, middle buster, boom pole]
    2004 JD 797 (29hp Kawasaki) Z-Trak, 72" 7-Iron deck, Mulch blades, Carlisle AT101's.
    Stihl: MS250C/18", FS70R, HS45/18".

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    SRG
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    Also, some machines have 2 or 3 holes on their lifting links where they attach to the lower arms. not all have these but some do. If yours has more than 1 hole, you can change to a different hole and this will also allow the blade to raise more or raise less depending on which hole position it started in.


    1997 JD 870 (28hp Yanmar), FWA, R1's, 300x loader, 61" bucket, 42" Titan forks, Pat's Easy Change.
    [72" KK box blade, 72" KK landscape rake, 72" Titan pine straw rake, 72" Express Steel snow pusher{XP24}, 60" KK tiller, 60" rotary cutter, middle buster, boom pole]
    2004 JD 797 (29hp Kawasaki) Z-Trak, 72" 7-Iron deck, Mulch blades, Carlisle AT101's.
    Stihl: MS250C/18", FS70R, HS45/18".

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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    If it lifted higher before but now it does not you may be using a different hole in your top link on the tractor. Changing the pin location the top link hooks into if you have 3 holes to work with will change how far a rear blade will come up. What it does is changes the geometry of the adjustable link as it goes up and down. So try a different hole and lift it up and down. Each time you use a different hole you will need to twist the link to reset the angle of the blade. On my 4044M one hole will lift high but once the blade lifts it angles more as it raises. One hole will keep the blade level as it comes up but not go as high. I will post a picture of the hole I use for this height. If I use the wrong one I have a hard time getting my blade off the ground very high and the snow won't have room to get out from under the blade.Click image for larger version.

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ID:	669748this is how high my rear blade lifts using the bottom hole.Click image for larger version.

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_2314.JPG
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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    So when I use my rear blade I want it to go high as it can to get rid of the dirt and be able to lift it up high and hook on to a lot of dirt in a pile and use the lower hole. Using my Box Blade I want the bottom to stay level as it comes up and use the top hole. I hope this is making sense? On the bottom hole it pulls back on the top of the blade more as it comes up. If I was using the top hole it would just work like a hinge and not pull back as it comes up. So now that we have that explained when your turn your adjustment in and out you change the angle of the cutting edge when sitting on the ground. That way you can make a real aggressive cut to dig in good or one that slides over the material more and does not dig in. If you don't want to tear up the place plowing snow adjust the top of the blade forward more but it won't cut into the hard pack as good. All these little adjustments you will learn over time working with different materials and reasons for what your doing.
    Last edited by JD4044M; 01-30-2019 at 03:23 PM.

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRG View Post
    Also, some machines have 2 or 3 holes on their lifting links where they attach to the lower arms. not all have these but some do. If yours has more than 1 hole, you can change to a different hole and this will also allow the blade to raise more or raise less depending on which hole position it started in.
    According to JD Parts the 4310 does have three positions for the top-link.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 4310_rockshaft.jpg
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    SRG
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    According to JD Parts the 4310 does have three positions for the top-link.

    Alright, while those aren't specifically what i was talking about, they do have an effect on lifting height and aggressiveness of the angle.
    What i was speaking of was the lifting link arms that connect the upper rock shafts down to the lower 3pt arms. Some machines have 2 or 3 holes in the lower section of these links.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails liftinglink.jpeg


    1997 JD 870 (28hp Yanmar), FWA, R1's, 300x loader, 61" bucket, 42" Titan forks, Pat's Easy Change.
    [72" KK box blade, 72" KK landscape rake, 72" Titan pine straw rake, 72" Express Steel snow pusher{XP24}, 60" KK tiller, 60" rotary cutter, middle buster, boom pole]
    2004 JD 797 (29hp Kawasaki) Z-Trak, 72" 7-Iron deck, Mulch blades, Carlisle AT101's.
    Stihl: MS250C/18", FS70R, HS45/18".

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